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  • racepar1's build thread......

    Well I have finally decided that it is time for a build thread. Right now I am in the process of a FULL chasis and suspension re-build, but we'll get to that in a bit. I figure we should start with where the car was before all this non-sense.


    Vehicle:
    -1989 nissan 240sx fastback
    -base model
    -power nothing

    Engine:
    -KA24DE out of my old '92 coupe (190k mi)
    -k&n typhoon intake
    -custom intake duct
    -espelir gt500 catback exhaust
    -stainless steel 4-2-1 header
    -catco 3" cat
    -urethane exhaust hangers
    -"drift freaq" solid urethane mounts
    -blitz radiator cap
    -altima electric fans with temp. and manual switches

    Drivetrain:
    -exedy stage 1 clutch
    -spec 11lb aluminum flywheel
    -peak performance race tranny mount
    -driveshaft shop 1-piece steel shaft
    -SPL solid diff bushings
    -s-14 pumpkin, s-13 VLSD cover, vlsd, 4.36 gears
    -infiniti j-30 axles

    Suspension:
    -energy suspension bushings with zerk fittings
    -SPL version2 tension rods, modified to clear endlink brackets, powdercoated black
    -no-name RUCA, trac, and toe arms with upgraded bearings
    -kazama subframe bushing collars
    -touge factory solid steering shaft bushing
    -yanack aluminum steering rack bushings
    -hicas steering rack
    -megan inner tie rods
    -stance gr+ pro coils with 9k/6k springs and tender springs in the rear
    -stock 25mm front sway with added adjustment holes
    -custom spherical front swaybar endlinks
    -no rear sway bar

    Brakes/Hubs:
    -32mm x 296mm GTR front calipers
    -OE GTR front rotors, crossdrilled
    -z-32 rear calipers
    -OE z-32 rear rotors
    -porterfield r4-s pads fr/r
    -technafit z-32 conversion lines
    -nabco 1" master cyl
    -z-32 brake booster
    -updated 3" front brake ducts
    -s-14 rear 5-lug hubs
    -peak performance street front 5-lug hubs
    -SPL hub centric rings
    -ichiba 50mm long wheel studs

    Wheels/Tires:
    -17x9 +17 mb competition
    -245/45/17 bridgestone RE01r
    -235/40/17 toyo RA1

    Chasis/Electrical:
    -gutted chasis(heater re-installed)
    -stitch welded front end
    -seam welded front crossmember
    -clearenced front fenderwells
    -AMS performance weld-in power brace
    -carbing steel front strut bar
    -ultra racing fender braces
    -generic c-pillar bar (painted gunmetal metallic)
    -cusco 3-point rear strut bar
    -tc sportline subframe brace
    -battery moved to pass rear seat
    -22lb hawker energy (odyssey) dry cell battery
    -c-west voltage stabilizer
    -charcoal canister moved to passenger's side
    -omp front tow hook

    Interior:
    -350mm personal driver series steering wheel
    -NRG short hub
    -NRG quick release
    -nismo "dildo" shift knob
    -sparco speed driver's seat
    -teamtech 5-point harnesses (dr. side only)
    -custom aluminum oversized brake/clutch pedals
    -custom carbon fiber radio/din delete panel

    Exterior:
    -chuki front end
    -garage defend front lip spoiler
    -gutted stock hood
    -hood pins
    -china h4 conversion housings
    -hella h4 bulbs
    -JDM 1/2 amber 1/2 clear bumper lights
    -ghetto rolled/pulled front fenders
    -rolled/pulled rear quarters

    Fluids/tune-up/etc...:
    -neo 10w40 synthetic motor oil
    -wix oil filter
    -neo 75w90 rhd synthetic gear oil (trans)
    -neo 75w90 rhd synthetic gear oil (diff)
    -25% coolant with NEO motorcycle coolant additive
    -brembo lcf 600 + brake fluid
    -redline powersteering fluid
    -bosch cap & rotor
    -NGK plug wires
    -NGK iridium plugs
    -moog ball joints fr/r
    -moog outer tie rod ends


    Here's a couple recent pics...





    Believe it or not I supposedly ran a faster time then the ford GT in the backround.


    ...and one of my old favorites, I kinda miss my silvia front.






    PURPOSE:
    The purpose of this build is to be competitive in the redline time attack street class. I want to run under 2:00 at buttonwillow (13CW). Since I ran a 2:09 my last (and first) time there I have 10 seconds to go....
    Last edited by racepar1; 09-28-2009, 01:11 AM.
    function > form
    1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

  • #2
    Very nice, How do you like the Portfield Pads?
    Also how's the Neo Trans Fluid? Cause Right now I'm running AMS and coming from RP is like night and day...

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by KA240SX808 View Post
      Very nice, How do you like the Portfield Pads?
      Also how's the Neo Trans Fluid? Cause Right now I'm running AMS and coming from RP is like night and day...

      The porterfield pads are absolutely awesome thus far. The only downside is that they make a huge amount of dust. I actually wanna try the amsoil myself. The NEO stuff is gl5-6. I don't have any intentions of switching out the neo 75w90rhd in the diff though. I have never really had any problems that I can say with any certainty are due to the trans fluid though, I just wanna try something different.
      function > form
      1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

      Comment


      • #4
        Here's a couple things that I have done in the past that I do have pics of.


        To start, my custom pedals. I made these for my last 240 about 4 years ago. They are simple 1/8" aluminum plates that are bolted to the stock pedals. Of course the bolts are countersunk and I covered the pedals with skateboard griptape. I LOVE these pedals! BTW the clutch pedal is not actually mounted that crooked, my clutch pedal is bent.




        And of course I couldn't forget my brake ducts. I must admit that I am particularly proud of these.












        Last edited by racepar1; 09-27-2009, 11:08 PM.
        function > form
        1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

        Comment


        • #5
          Just wondering but whats w/ the Purple/pinkish tint in some of the pics?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by KA240SX808 View Post
            Just wondering but whats w/ the Purple/pinkish tint in some of the pics?
            Old ass camera that is on it's way out. I forgot it on the seat of my car once, in it's case, sitting in the sun. Ever since then it works good sometimes and terrible others. I want to steal the new one that I bought for the wifey, but then I would have to buy her another one anyways.
            Last edited by racepar1; 09-27-2009, 11:13 PM.
            function > form
            1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

            Comment


            • #7
              Cool brake pedals. I'm going to make a set for my self this winter.

              Comment


              • #8
                OK, now onto what's currently happening. I have since sold the stances and the car is sitting on some kyb gr2's and tein springs that my buddy left lying around my shop. The koni set-up is almost done, I just have a few little projects left. The car is currently in the process of being completely stripped in preparation for the roll cage install. I have all the nuts and bolts type stuff done, I just have to cut out the big brackets/braces that the rear seat mounts to on the fastbacks. I'll post pics of that and the rollcage once I have everything stripped and cleaned up. Now onto what's done...


                I FINALLY got the bushings and finished my z-32 rear uprights. I also installed zerk fittings for easy maintenance. In hindsight I should have painted them silver, but they won't be on the car forever. I DO plan on getting sphericals in the not TOO distant future.




                I bought a pair of v1 SPL china arms off my buddy because I like the design much better then the ones I have. I had my buddy powdercoat all the arms gloss black. It kinda sucks though because the day after he powdercoated my arms he got some candy red powdercoat that would have been badass. I still have to source another pair of rod ends for them, but I'm going to run them for now. I actually had good luck with a pair of those cheapie beraings on my toe arms though, which I finally replaced.




                This is my latest project. I took my RLCA's and braced them. I basically totally boxed them in. I just took some thin sheetmetal, tacked it on around the outside, hammered it down to meet the middle, and welded it all together. They came out pretty good IMO. They could have been better if I had taken a little more time though. I had my buddy powdercoat these gloss black as well. I weighed them and they are less then a pound heavier then a stock arm. I re-used my moog sentra ball joints. I was originally planning to make delrin bushings, but decided to use the z-32 urethane ones instead and save the time for now. The z-32 bushing material is MUCH thinner with a big spacer. With as little material as there is there to deflect I doubt delrin would be much of a difference anyways.






                Here's my latest non-build related purchase, but it is car related. I had to replace my old one. It was a hand me down from my dad, it stank, and it squeezed the top of my head. I got such a good deal on this one that I couldn't pass it up.









                I have LOT of other projects going on as well.

                -koni set-up
                I have the upper mounts done, all the springs that I absolutely need, and the housings stripped and prepped. All I have to do is make some brackets to mount the rear shocks and do the little things necessary to actually put the shocks in the housings. I'll post some pics of the progress here soon.

                -rollcage
                I have the car almost ready to test fit the cage and the cage cut apart. I just have to finish removing the rear seat bracket things (fastback) and grind the remains of the old welds off the cage. HOPEFULLY everything comes close enough to fitting for me to make the front tubes work. Since I have to keep the stock dash and underdash components there just isn't much space. From the looks of everything I think it may just work, but if not I will just have to run a half cage for now and add the front tubes later.

                -front lower control arms
                I have a set of bearings and adjusters leftover from a set of broken circuit sports tension rods. Since the bearings look amazingly good and are extremely beefy I figured I would use them on my FLCA's. I'm going to do basically the same thing as the battle version kit. This should make a HUGE difference in the front of the car. I'm not sure exactly when I will get to this though, there is a LOT of other stuff going on.

                -s-13 rear subframe
                I am currently working on bracing an s-13 rear subframe. I already have the subframe torn down and all the templates ready. I want solid bushings and I figure that solid bushings will basically make the subframe an integral part of the chasis, why not brace it? It's cheap, looks cool, and is the one place on the car where it isn't necessarily a bad idea to add a little weight. I figure that all the bracing will weigh about 5 lbs anyways.

                -s-14 rear subframe
                I have decided to put this off for now. Not because I don't think that it is important, but because I have bigger plans when this goes in the car. Rather then buying bushings or stretching stock ones I decided to weld my own mounts in there. It's as simple as a couple big washers (offset in this case) and the right size tube. Not so complicated. BUT since I am going to be welding things to the mounting points I want to raise the entire subframe up in the car as much as I can. I figure I can get an inch easily. I don't want to screw with the rear roll center without screwing with the front too though. Since I have so much other stuff going on right now I decided to just put this off untill I can REALLY concentrate on the whole project. Hence the s-13 subframe that I am modifying as it will likely be half a year before I get around to this.

                -s-14 front swaybar
                I am planning on using a s-14 27mm hollow front swaybar in place of my 25mil solid s-13 one. I already have the s-14 bar drilled for stiffer adjustment and ready to go, I just need to machine out the urethane bushings to fit. I am kinda getting worried that I may be better off with the s-13 bar though, I could drill my adjustment hole much further up the bar because of how it was made on the s-13 then the s-14. I will post pics of this asap as I need more opinions.

                -stitch weld the rest of the chasis
                I plan to stitch weld pretty much the rest of the chasis. I did the front end when I first put the car together.

                -replace core support
                Mine has been whacked around too many times and things just don't line up right anymore. I cut one off a parts car that I was junking a couple months ago so I just need to get it in the car.

                -gut wiring harnesses
                I plan to remove every single un-necessary wire in the entire car. This should be coming in the near future as I need to have the entire interior stripped to paint it once I get the cage completely in anyways.

                -replace input bearing in spare tranny and install it
                My trans is grinding into 4th, it's annoying. I've got a good tranny that just needs a bearing sitting there, I plan to knock this out soon.

                -possibly install ported s-14 ka intake mani and plentum
                I bought one and hand ported it a while ago. I tried to leave the shape of the ports alone and just grind off the high spots and roughness. I managed to get pretty much completely through both the manifold and the plentum. I think this is going to make a HUGE difference. It's all done I just need to buy all the under mani coolant hoses. I DO plan on swapping the KA out for a blacktop SR at tax time though, but I would like to squeeze as much out of the KA as I can for now. I am also considering doing the timing chains for the same reason. I'll post pics of this soon.


                Well that's all I can think of for now, more updates coming soon!
                Last edited by racepar1; 09-28-2009, 01:10 AM.
                function > form
                1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by BeerBringer View Post
                  Cool brake pedals. I'm going to make a set for my self this winter.
                  You've just gotta be really careful locating the boltholes, other then that it's really easy.
                  function > form
                  1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    OK another update...


                    We'll start with the koni set-up.
                    Both the front and rear upper mounts are done. The fronts are cusco camber plates with vorshlag upper spring seats, the rears are tein upper mounts with no-name upper spring seats. For the fronts I left the spacer at the stock thickness. I machined the "flange" off of the vorshlag spring seats just to be sure that I have enough contact area. For the rears I machined the spacers almost as thin as I could. I have just a little more then enough room for the bearing to fully articulate.






                    I also have some torrington bearings for the rear springs...




                    For the housings I have a pair of OLD JIC front coilover housings and a pair of OLD tein hr's for the rear. The fronts are trimmed pretty much to the proper length, I just have to trim the last little bit off. The problem is that the shocks don't quite fit into the housings. They are REALLY close, but I will have to find a way to machine out the housings a little. I'm going to try those sandpaper flappers and a drill. The rear housings also need to be trimmed down and I need to make the rear shock brackets, but the shocks fit just fine in the rears.




                    I also have a pair of OE housings that are modified for koni's with some e-bay sleeves. I am keeping these around just in case the JIC's won't work for some reason.




                    I pulled my swaybar out of the car and compared it with the s-14 one more carefully then I did before. I have come to the conclusion that I would be better off (stiffness wise) with my 25mm solid swaybar. As you can see in the pics below the motion arm on the s-14 bar is a bit longer then the s-13 one. That combined with the fact that, due to it's design, I couldn't drill the adjustment holes nearly as far forward as I could on the s-13 bar.






                    Well, here's the intake mani. I used sandpaper flapper bits and a 6" extension to get inside the runners. The plentum is really odd shaped so I couldn't do much there, but the runners are the really important part. I sandblasted it when I was all done.








                    I also have one of those thick plastic "thermal barrier" intake mani gaskets and some nice, thick silicone vacuum hose. I also have to buy some regular silicone vacuum hose since the stuff I have is so thick.




                    Well, here's what I did today! I finished stripping the chasis and threw the cage in to see how it fits. The main hoop fits good, but not great. It'll work just fine though. It also looks like I will be able to use the front tubes! 6-point cage here I come! I don't think I can have door bars with stock doorpanels though, well at least not good ones. We'll see if I decide to try it or not.







                    function > form
                    1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Where did you purchase the air/brake ducting and hoses?

                      Thanks
                      Check out my all wheel drive altima blog

                      http://awdu13.wordpress.com

                      - Billy

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        i used one of those brake cylinder hones with a drill to deburr the inside of my stock housings so that my bilsteins would slide in or out. worked well for me, not sure how much material they will ultimately take off though.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I don't think running door bars with OE door panels if a "couldn't"...it's more of a "shouldn't." You gotta get the bars as far away from you as possible.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by kat_u13 View Post
                            Where did you purchase the air/brake ducting and hoses?

                            Thanks
                            I got the ducts and hose from a little race shop near me. You can source the stuff online from pegasus racing.

                            Originally posted by Ruff Ryder 6 View Post
                            i used one of those brake cylinder hones with a drill to deburr the inside of my stock housings so that my bilsteins would slide in or out. worked well for me, not sure how much material they will ultimately take off though.
                            I tried that, but it just wasn't quite removing enough material. The way it was going I would have damaged the hone.

                            Originally posted by 2Fass240us View Post
                            I don't think running door bars with OE door panels if a "couldn't"...it's more of a "shouldn't." You gotta get the bars as far away from you as possible.
                            As far as I am concerned that's the exact same thing.
                            function > form
                            1990 240sx fastback: IN PROGRESS

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Impressive car man. Hats for all the custom at home stuff.

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