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  • Swaybar Shootout

    Originally posted by ecugrad
    Taken from the intro thread. Post up what you got and how it works. My S14- Godspeed Front Sway (30.3mm) Godspeed Rear Sway (28mm) <--I might be wrong on the size of that one. I ran the first event with the stock rear and big front and it was good (13th Raw out of 80) Ran the second event with both big bars and did even better (7th RAW out of 130) However both events were on the craptastic AGX's or a bastardized AGX Front/Koni Yellow Rear combo. Next event I will have Koni/GC on both ends of the car and -4° Camber in the front. I am still getting a feel for the car, I have total of 9 autox runs in it to date. I cant tell if I am lifting a rear tire or not. Should I give NO rear bar a shot?
    It might come down to personal preference. I really don't like having a rear bar. I lift rears once in a while, resulting in wheelspin city when trying to come out of a tight corner. Depending on what other things the rear bar is messing with, it makes sweepers a hassle, too, since I have to fight with the car to keep it settled... the slightest kink, and the rear comes out. I also have a good amount of power, so I think the lack of a rear sway would help me with traction more than someone with a stock KA. I've tried disconnecting the rear mid-event and it made a definite increase in traction, but the car wouldn't rotate because I don't have nearly enough camber or spring (yet) to compensate. The big front theory I took from the BMW guys, which was further reinforced by Dennis Grant (who explains it in plain English). I ripped this directly from his "Autocross to Win" page:
    McStruts have really crappy camber compensation in roll; the suspension does not gain negative camber when compressed like a double A arm does. This means that as the car rolls, it is trying to pry the outside front increasingly positive in camber, to the detriment of front grip... The usual hot ticket for setting up a front McStrut is to admit that one happy tire usually makes more grip than a pair of pissed off tires, so you slap a lot of front bar on the car, get 100% front lateral weight transfer (lifting the inside front off the ground in the process) and then set the static camber such that the outside front tire is in its Happy Place at full roll - look at any fast M3 or CamaroStang.
    Take that for what it's worth.

  • #2
    Swaybar Shootout

    Taken from the intro thread. Post up what you got and how it works. My S14- Godspeed Front Sway (30.3mm) Godspeed Rear Sway (28mm) <--I might be wrong on the size of that one. I ran the first event with the stock rear and big front and it was good (13th Raw out of 80) Ran the second event with both big bars and did even better (7th RAW out of 130) However both events were on the craptastic AGX's or a bastardized AGX Front/Koni Yellow Rear combo. Next event I will have Koni/GC on both ends of the car and -4° Camber in the front. I am still getting a feel for the car, I have total of 9 autox runs in it to date. I cant tell if I am lifting a rear tire or not. Should I give NO rear bar a shot?

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    • #3
      I'd highly recommend removing the rear swaybar. My setup was tuned for slight understeer to keep the rear end in check under throttle, but with the new alignment and a small bump in rear pressure, my car was tail happy the last time I drove it. I'm running: - FRONT: Whiteline (27mm solid IIRC) - REAR: None Comments: Plants the rear a bit better, and gets more out of the HLSD. Combined with 600lb springs up front, and 450lb springs in back, it's pretty neutral. Bumping rear tire pressure 4psi above fronts (28psi front, 32psi rear) resulted in lots of oversteer.

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      • #4
        Now, Do you the endlinks really make a difference?
        http://eloquentlytrack.wordpress.com/

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        • #5
          $40 from McMaster = run heims:

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          • #6
            I have Progress front and rear swaybars. When I was NA and doing track days, both bars were setup to the middle setting for stiffness, this seemed to work fine on/off track. After a turboed the car, I had to soften the rear bar and I still had issues of oversteer on corner exit. I have no LSD in the car yet either and am on 225 width tires, neither of these helped the situation. I might remove the rear swaybar next year depending on the results of running larger tires, the HLSD, and the Koni suspension.
            -Monty

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            • #7
              Right now I am running 335F and 275R. Its a long story but I plan on bumping the front 100lbs as soon as I can find some 6" springs. My 240 is N/A with a S13 cam installed by the previous owner. So Im not rolling with the big HP like some of you guys. We have a "fun" day autox in December. I will experiment with it and report back. Ace- Got some part numbers for those endlinks?

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              • #8
                Progress bars come with pillowball endlinks and they're adjustable. They're also pretty cheap, so I see no reason to buy anything else. I'll be grabbing a front Progress bar next summer.
                ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
                ~2016 M3, daily driver

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by ecugrad
                  Ace- Got some part numbers for those endlinks?
                  4444T101 2 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Rh Male Shank, 3570 Pound Load Capacity 4444T211 2 Each High-strength Ball Joint Rod End, 3/8"-24 Rh Female Shank, 5100 Pound Load Capacity 92316A632 1 Pack Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Flange Cap Screw, 3/8"-16 Thread, 2" Length 90630A121 1 Pack Grade 8 Plain Steel Hex Nylon-insert Locknut, 3/8"-16 Screw Size, 9/16" Width, 29/64" Height I made my own spacers using 3/8" ID pipe, but I'm betting sleeve bearings would work: 2938T6 8 Each SAE 863 Bronze Flanged-Sleeve Bearing for 3/8" Shaft Dia, 1/2" OD X1/4" L X11/16" Flange OD I also forgot to order lock nuts. I was planning on running brass self sealing ones, though (keep the threads clean). 90215A431 2 Each Self-Sealing Locknut 3/8"-24 Screw Size, 5/8" Width, 7/32" Height Pretty much any 3/8-24 thread nut will do. Skinnier ones (7/32") will give you a bit more range of travel. Also, pretty much any of the 3/8" heims will work in a male/ female combo. I'd probably use non-grease fitting heims next time around, and run some seals-it boots for the hell of it. The downfall of this setup is it's not easy to adjust (to undo preload). If anyone knows where to get small adjustment collars (LH thread outside, RH thread inside), let me know

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by turtl631
                    Progress bars come with pillowball endlinks and they're adjustable. They're also pretty cheap, so I see no reason to buy anything else. I'll be grabbing a front Progress bar next summer.
                    Yep, can't beat them for the price... that's for sure. I ran these on my Sentra for close to 5 years. When I pulled them off, the bearings still had movement and were solid, no slop. Of course I live in an area where they don't put salt on the roads and cars typically never rust here.
                    -Monty

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by McCoy
                      Originally posted by turtl631
                      Progress bars come with pillowball endlinks and they're adjustable. They're also pretty cheap, so I see no reason to buy anything else. I'll be grabbing a front Progress bar next summer.
                      Yep, can't beat them for the price... that's for sure. I ran these on my Sentra for close to 5 years. When I pulled them off, the bearings still had movement and were solid, no slop. Of course I live in an area where they don't put salt on the roads and cars typically never rust here.
                      I might talk to a buddy of mine to see if he can make some custom sway bars. He's done a bunch for some pretty serious BSP Subaru people, and he says he can do any size as long as it'll fit under the car. :P I'm thinking about having him make me a 32mm solid front bar that's 2- or 3-way adjustable. If I go through with this, I'll let you guys know and he can probably make whatever kind of bars you guys would want.

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                      • #12
                        If I had a bar made, it would look like this:

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by AceInHole
                          If I had a bar made, it would look like this:
                          That's the only way to fly=)
                          Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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                          • #14
                            oooo Speedway bar.

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                            • #15
                              is that your brake duct hose? if so where did you get it from? i need enough to put on my car and a friends E36. Pricing?
                              http://eloquentlytrack.wordpress.com/

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