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  • 8611 Install pics

    I've had the pics for a while, but I wanted to ensure I had everything all squared away before posting this up. I hit all the high points, so with this info most people should be able to do an 8611/8610 install in about 1-2 hours without an issue.

    I'm using ebay camber plates, shaft sleeves supplied by Richard(thanks for the replacements!), GC tophats, and Torrington bearings under the springs.


    Here are all the components laid out from top(left) to bottom(right). Nevermind the lack of Torrington bearings under the springs. There's the sleeved nut that comes with the camber plates on the left, followed by the flanged sleeve to get the ID down to the 14mm Koni shaft, hardened 16mm ID washer that comes with the camber plates, a 2" OD washer I drilled a 14mm hole in to distribute forces from the hat to the other washer, a GC tophat(which was a PITA to procure), bumpstop that comes with the Konis with 1/2" trimmed off(trim off the "big" end!), then the usual spring, collar, perch etc.




    You can't put the load of the suspension on the bronze sleeve flange, so you've got to cut it off. I got lazy and used a cutoff wheel on mine, so it was a jagged cut... and I dripped molten bronze on my finger in the process - that was not comfortable. Without the flange you can insert the sleeve into the camber plate.

    You must also sand down the sleeves a bit to fit inside the camber plate bearings. The sleeves are oversized slightly at about 18.01-18.02mm, so you'll need to take them down a bit so they fit inside the plates. I sanded with them some 80 grit paper for about 5 mins a sleeve and they slipped right in.




    Here it is after taking the sleeve down a bit, notice no flange on the sleeve, so now the spherical bearing can take the load.




    Here's what the Torrington bearing and two hardened washers look like. This is where I bought mine:

    http://www.amazon.com/Torrington-NTA...6253636&sr=1-5

    http://www.amazon.com/Torrington-TRA...253636&sr=1-21

    You need 1 bearing and 2 washers per corner.




    Slap it all together in the order I pictured earlier, and then you need to hold the shaft of the Koni and torque the nut on the camber plate. I used an 11mm wrench on the Koni shaft and a 7/8" wrench on the camber plate. You can't put much torque on it this way, because the Koni shaft is an odd size(it's slightly smaller than 11mm, but bigger than the next metric or SAE size). I ended up putting a bit more torque on them with a pair of vise grips holding the shaft while they're on the car. Be careful doing this!

    I want to point out that these camber plate bolts and the gland nuts on the strut housings NEED LOCTITE!!! Hit the gland nuts on the strut housing with something inserted into one of the holes to tighten it up if you don't have a tool, but put some loctite on it too. I had mine loosen up. The struts should be tight in the housings. If they are not, they will need a shim to tighten things up(shouldn't be needed, just mentioning).




    All buttoned up:




    Ride height, about the same as I've been running for the past year. Any lower than this seems a bit counterproductive on stock geometry. My LCAs are facing downwards just a bit, so you lower it from here and the roll center is going to start dropping rapidly.




    Another ride height:




    Travel at this height:




    Looks like plenty to me, as by the time I'm really on the bumpstops the other front corner should be off the ground. Richard has moved the flanges on the new strut housings up a bit, which should give even more travel, which is good.


    All in all, the car feels great with these dampers. I highly recommend going this route, as you won't find anything this nice for an S13 that comes from JDM land for less than $2k for sure. I can't wait to get some 8611s out back and full spherical bearings in the uprights to complement the front setup now.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

  • #2
    Nice, thanks for the pictures. They explains everything. Now I'm all anxious to get my setup together.

    Comment


    • #3
      Will 8611 really make that much of a difference in the rear? Great write up by the way. I just woke up/got to work, so I'll read it all later, but I skimmed through it. Very cool.

      I am wondering though how we can get the parts individually as i heard stories how gc doesnt wana sell individual parts... like the tophats i forget if it was you, someone posted that link it was 50 bux just what we need, then caster/camber arms can be purchased for quite cheap, heck even springs one can get them from hyperco or something, then the bearings yeah.. but the spring sleeves thingamajig from gc, we cant get it individually right... thats what im wondering also..

      It's VERY good what you are doing, to break down literally the whole package in bits and pieces label everything and make it visual as opposed to text, diagrams/illustrations can speak more than a thousand words when describing something technical/mechanical.

      I don't doubt it like you said that it would take more than 1-2hours to assemble it all. Also you mentioned to use copper grease or something to prevent any issues on the camber plates or something like that? I forget what was mentioned. It would be good if we gathered clearly everything in this thread all the little nifty things that were mentioned in all our other threads across this forum

      Also what is loctite? Some kind of glue/grease thing?
      Last edited by a_ahmed; 03-23-2008, 05:12 AM. Reason: .
      "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

      Comment


      • #4
        There are a few sources of the tophats. The Techno Toy/Tuning whatever hats are an option, and they have a torrington bearing already included in them, but they need something to space the load o ut on the bearing as was discussed when they were brought up.

        I meant Loctite threadlocker, Loctite is a brand name, just thought everybody would know what I was talking about. Just get the blue Loctite/Permatex threadlocker - you can get it at any autoparts/hardware store.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • #5
          Are these the newer housings with the extra camber angle at the lower mount? If so, how's the tire/wheel clearance?

          Comment


          • #6
            Thought I was forgetting something.

            These are the new housings with slightly more camber angle. I have 17x9 +15 and 235/40-17's. Plenty of clearance as you can see. I'd say you could probably fit a 17x9 +25 and still be fine. I have 5" 7.5 kg/mm springs, so anything longer than that is going to get the perch getting closer to the tire.

            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

            Comment


            • #7
              hmm way i did calculation before comparing mccoy's setup to what i want i would have 2mm more clearance than his 275/40/17 setup with a 285/30/18 18x10.5+15 setup... but now looking at your setup it worries me, i think its just the angle im not looking at it right since 17x9+15 and 18x10.5+ would make the 18x10.5 not fit if i see right... im not sure what was changed... He was fitting 17x9+36 with 275/40/17 he can correct me...
              "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by a_ahmed View Post
                hmm way i did calculation before comparing mccoy's setup to what i want i would have 2mm more clearance than his 275/40/17 setup with a 285/30/18 18x10.5+15 setup... but now looking at your setup it worries me, i think its just the angle im not looking at it right since 17x9+15 and 18x10.5+ would make the 18x10.5 not fit if i see right... im not sure what was changed... He was fitting 17x9+36 with 275/40/17 he can correct me...
                Monty could only squeeze 2 degree's of camber with the plates maxed out. I added camber at the flange, which means you have to give up some inside clearance to do it.
                Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by a_ahmed View Post
                  hmm way i did calculation before comparing mccoy's setup to what i want i would have 2mm more clearance than his 275/40/17 setup with a 285/30/18 18x10.5+15 setup... but now looking at your setup it worries me, i think its just the angle im not looking at it right since 17x9+15 and 18x10.5+ would make the 18x10.5 not fit if i see right... im not sure what was changed... He was fitting 17x9+36 with 275/40/17 he can correct me...
                  Def has Richard's newer housings that have some camber angle already dialed in at the lower mount, while McCoy's are at 0, so there is going to be less inboard space available.

                  You could get more space by using camber bolts to pull the wheel away from the strut and then move the plates in more (probably what I'm going to do to fit 17x9 +22 w/ 255/40/17) or have them slotted to do the same thing.

                  EDIT: Beaten to it.
                  Last edited by spool_sample; 03-23-2008, 10:20 AM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    This is 17x9 +22 with a 235/40/17. You can see the tire is not close to touching anything. I think you should be good Andrew.



                    Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yea, you should be fine on inside clearance with a 17x9 +22, the 255/40's will be pushing it on the outside of stock S13 fenders though. If things end up being a little tight for whatever reason a 3mm spacer should take care of it.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Def View Post
                        Yea, you should be fine on inside clearance with a 17x9 +22, the 255/40's will be pushing it on the outside of stock S13 fenders though.
                        Good thing I have an S14.

                        In any case, I have some 5mm spacers and an extra set of camber bolts, so I should have enough options to make the fitment work.

                        Def, those are 2.25" ID springs?

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I hate s14 owners. So that means no more 275/40/17 for mccoy or 285/30/18 for me lol... The max front camber i'd want to run is like -3 and id like to run about +8.5 caster...
                          Last edited by a_ahmed; 03-23-2008, 12:36 PM.
                          "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            you don't want 18's anyway!

                            nice write up def. I agree with the +22 and 255's. should fit, as i think next set of tires i'll get will be 255 all around. even if i like the look of the slight stretch of the 235.

                            Most PM answers: F 17X9 +22, R 17X9 +35

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by a_ahmed View Post
                              I hate s14 owners. So that means no more 275/40/17 for mccoy or 285/30/18 for me lol... The max front camber i'd want to run is like -3 and id like to run about +8.5 caster...
                              Just means you'll be doing more fender rolling/pulling.=)
                              Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

                              Comment

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