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  • Stance Coilover revalving?

    Anyone here other than Veilside180sx have had experience with Stance coilovers?

    So far, him and I agree that these coilovers have a decent rebound rate, just that the compression gets a bit outta hand in the "whoa there too much of that" category when the adjustment knobs are turned to get the rebound in the sweet spot.

    I've heard that these coilovers can be taken to local bike shops to have them revalved, but honestly, I'd rather have someone experienced revalving them if at all possible.

    I have not contacted Stance USA (aka the Touge Factory guys) to see what they have to say about them, but honestly, they might not be able to valve it the way I want, since I don't think they have a shock dyno.

    So, anyone else have any inputs on these coilovers?

    Oh, I have the Stance GR+ with the 9k/7k springs on.
    http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

  • #2
    I agree with the rebound/compression analysis. Even my K-Sports can get a reasonable(if not digressive in the least) rebound rate for smooth tracks, but the compression amount at that point is WAY too much(high/mid speed mainly - low speed is pretty much not there on these dampers, like most the JDM stuffs with needle valve adjusters).


    My take on it - the dorifo guys love Stance for some reason, so I'd sell 'em off and get a set of 86xx Konis.

    I should have my 8611's up front here soon, so I'll post up comparisons to the few "nice dampers" I've been exposed to.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      The reason why these coilovers work well for drifting is because if you have the compression high, it helps to transfer the loads from side to side as you shift the weight of the car from 1 side to the other, while the low to ok rebound rate helps to keep the wheels in a squatted motion to keep the power down.

      It makes a lot of sense for drifting, but I have a feeling that a proper road race setup will be a lot more beneficial even for the drift guys.

      I'm not going to lie, I got into drifting back in 2000, and I am still very much a fan of it. Never really had the financial means to do it, or the place to do it, but now in 2008 there actually is a place for me to do it in a safe environment, and I also have the financial means to pay for tires/entry fee, so I'm going to be doing that.

      But.

      I am also going to be getting into road racing (I've done 1 track day so far, with KYB GR-2 and some Tanabe springs, and really craptastic tires and brake fluid. Got the slowest times of the day cause of that, it was not cool, but still fun), so this car will very much be a dual purpose car.

      I figured I'd try and see if there is a way to improve what I already have right now, and if not, so be it, I'll get rid of my Stance coilovers and get myself a set of Veilside180sx 8611 front setup, with Koni yellows in the rear. But I'd like to go that route as a "last ditch effort" type scenario.
      http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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      • #4
        I'm really happy with my stance coils, I have gr+ pros on my s13 (8/6)-- when I first installed them I didn't really play with the dampers, but recently fiddled with them and got them riding/driving a lot better. Of course, I know the koni setup is far better, but, I'm content for now and the duties my car sees don't really necessitate anything better.

        That said, I'm not sure how much the TF guys can do with revalving, and unless they're providing dyno plots or something, I probably wouldn't bother--though I'd be curious to know the price and more details as I haven't looked into it myself.

        Alex

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        • #5
          Well, if you're just doing HPDEs I wouldn't worry about your "times."

          IMO - the crappy valved coilovers everybody seems to love outside of this forum make these cars "not fun" to drive fast. You're always worried you're going to hit a very small bump midcorner at 8-9/10ths and immediately lose it because the dampers don't control the tire at all.

          Unless TF has the shims for you to get them revalved somewhere with a dyno, I think you're kind of SOL on getting them reshimmed/valved.

          If you really want something better than what you have now(which really isn't that hard to do IMO) - then go ahead and start thinking about some 8610/8611 fronts, Yellow rears. I don't think it'll be too much more $$$ than what you have now, and you'll likely be pretty happy with them.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            Truth, I have Stance with the 8/6 springs and the car can be skittery at times. On surfaces where (well set up) RWD, low power cars can easily use the throttle to steer and generate smooth tail-out action, my car will take a set, then hit a bump and snap out on me, and it's annoying. It works okay when the track is really smooth, but that is seldom, and in the real world (Chicago streets, don't get me started) I can't even mess around with it really because all the irregularities make it so unpredictable at the limit.
            ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
            ~2016 M3, daily driver

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            • #7
              Yeah I have mine pretty low on the damping adjustment right now, and it seems that there is not enough roll resistance, which is the rebound I think, but it's still kind of harsh over bumps.

              I think some thicker sways will help, but honestly, if the compression and rebound rates were better matched, I wouldn't even need them.
              http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                I think a sway will help your car transition quicker, but in transition you'll still have sub-par performance.

                With the cheap shocks, I wouldn't go into them more than messing with N2 pressure. If your shocks have a schrader valve, a bike/ motorcycle/ shock shop can adjust the pressure easily. It's not the best way of "tuning" shocks, but it's by far easier than rebuilding. The added benefit is you should gain more rebound damping than compression.

                D2's UK site actually lists recommended pressure for their external res. shocks.
                http://www.d2racingsport.co.uk/Pages/coilovers.asp

                I bumped my fronts up to 220psi (probably low spec, actually, considering they were WELL used at the time). It seemed to help control the front a bit better. Ride quality was marginally better (uncalibrated ass dyno). I'm betting it's possible to go higher, but I didn't trust my seals to hold for much considering their age.

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                • #9
                  Here's a dyno plot I found for a set of S13 Stance coilovers.

                  http://www.tougefactory.com/blog/?p=25

                  They compared it to a set of DG-5, Apexi, D-Max, and some other coil that I didn't really look at.

                  Look at the compression curve for the DG-5 (yellow) between 0-0.1m/sec. That looks pretty sweet for bumps in the road!
                  http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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                  • #10
                    none of those look that good to me. Especially the DG5 dampers. Way too much high speed, not enough low speed. The racing trial ones look the best.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Does anyone by chance have a graph of a Koni 86XX shock, then we can overlay it and it would be a good reference for people who know nothing about them.

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                      • #12
                        "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

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                        • #13
                          Actually, even the Racing Gear stuff is way too stiff.

                          The Apex's compression and rebound looks to be the closest to the 8611's valving.
                          http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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                          • #14
                            All of those look like crap. I don't know why it was said that the DG5 compression curve looks good between 0-0.1m/s. But Racing gear does get a little stiff in rebound at over 500lbs force at about 2in/s, I would call that a little excessive.

                            Compression and rebound are totally unbalanced. Whatever, just crap. Rebound is way overdamped, like damping ratios around 2. Compression is underdamped around 0.3-0.6 depending on which one. Just from some quick analysis.
                            www.tipengr.com

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Wiisass View Post
                              All of those look like crap. I don't know why it was said that the DG5 compression curve looks good between 0-0.1m/s. But Racing gear does get a little stiff in rebound at over 500lbs force at about 2in/s, I would call that a little excessive.

                              Compression and rebound are totally unbalanced. Whatever, just crap. Rebound is way overdamped, like damping ratios around 2. Compression is underdamped around 0.3-0.6 depending on which one. Just from some quick analysis.
                              Don't mind me.

                              I'm still a noob at reading shock dynos, and I just thought that if you had too much compression at low speed, like betwee 0-0.1m/s, then soaking up bumps on the road surfaces at cruising speeds would be much more tolerable.

                              Again, I'm still a noob and still learning this stuff.

                              I'm guessing using the graph for the 8611 as a benchmark for now would be a good idea?
                              http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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