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Simplified wiring for a race car

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  • Simplified wiring for a race car

    I have a twin cam 240sx which I have gutted and am in the process of putting back together. It has been a dedicated race car for 3 years now and every winter I simplify it some more. I have pulled what was left of the wiring harness out and I only want to reinstall what is absolutely necessary to run the engine. Most of the wiring relates to the chassis, and it would be nice to leave it off completely, but I do not know what the engine needs to not throw a code. The transmission sensors for instance, will cause a limp mode if left off? If anyone has done this, or even has a simplified wiring diagram it would be helpful. I want to be sure I can always plug in a stock ECU, since they don't seem to like race cars and between two cars we have now fried three ECU's. If I have a tuned ECU with the factory settings disabled and I fry that one, then it is game over for that race day. So it would be nice to be able to always throw a stock ECU back in a pinch and keep racing.
    Thanks for the help.

    Link to car is below if anyone wants to see it.

    http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/for...k/53125/page1/

  • #2
    The ECU doesn't really need anything from the chassis wiring other than 12v power and the safety switch on the clutch and that can be bypassed easily. The ECU module feeds speed/rpm/water temp/etc to the instrument cluster but if you don't have that anymore it's not needed. The ECU just needs to be connected to the engine/injectors/distributor/coil/O2 sensor. The transmission gear selection switches are only there for cruise control and I don't think you'll be using that! Go here http://www.240edge.com/manuals/s13-ka24de.html and look at the electrical diagrams.
    Don Johnson (really!)
    Just so you know.

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    • #3
      Thank you for the reply. So for the most part then I just need to use the engine harness and tie it into a fuse panel, and discard all the chassis wiring? That is nice and easy.

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      • #4
        Other than the injectors, distributor and coil, the rest of the engine harness is just low voltage sensor signals, so should not need a fuse for them.

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        • #5
          Someone had some info on this about a year ago. I remember some aussie dude rewired his entire car, custom fuse boxes, etc. For the life of me, I cannot remember what the thread was called, but the aussie with which I speak had a real nice setup.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by djsilver View Post
            The ECU module feeds speed/rpm/water temp/etc to the instrument cluster but if you don't have that anymore it's not needed
            No it doesn't.
            Speed signal goes to cluster than ecu
            Temp has two.separate sensors for ecu and cluster.
            Dummy lights dont go from ecu at all.

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            • #7
              Just to update this thread, I ended up buying a custom fuse relay box from a guy on Ratsun.net.



              He calls it a can-am box. It is extremely well thought out and the wiring diagrams and lots of help can be found here.

              http://community.ratsun.net/topic/53...into-anything/

              It easily elimimates all the wiring other than what is needed to run the engine. I have cut apart the original fuse box to run acessories like fans.

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              • #8
                I love you for this. I've basically gutted out all my wires and am slowly sifting through everything.

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                • #9
                  Your welcome! I was pretty happy to find it as well.

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                  • #10
                    What are you keeping in your car? I only have rear lights, front lights, hazards, turn signals, horn, fuel pumps, efi, and everything engine/ecu relatand and that's it. I'm attempting to make headlights a manual lift occasion if I can rig up a decent sort of locking mechanism.

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                    • #11
                      All I will have in my car is engine fan, one taillight, hard wired transponder, dash lights and a defroster fan motor. I think thats it. I am running all that from a separate fuse box.

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                      • #12
                        Also 1 wire alternator straight to the battery and run off the driveshaft.

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                        • #13
                          How much did that little box of goodness cost you? That thing might just make my life a whole lot easier

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                          • #14
                            It's $150.00. I would have paid more......

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                            • #15
                              Damn that is awesome, I will defiantly have to pick one of them up.

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