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  • ka24e no start

    Engine ran fine for a long time, but I'm having issues with getting my stocker running after I replaced the battery. The battery had opposite side terminal posts and I hooked it up wrong without noticing. Classic bonehead move, I know...

    When I had it hooked up wrong the starter would spin, but not engage flywheel. Not realizing my mistake yet, I thought I had a starter problem, so I replaced it, still wouldn't start. Needless to say, I tried to start it a bunch of times without correcting the terminals, frying all kinds of who knows what.

    So now the battery terminals are correct, starter engages the flywheel fine, and engine turns. Here is where I am at:

    - I have fuel at least up to the injectors, I know this because one injector is leaking. Also, the plugs smell like fuel when I take them out. Up until this point I have ignored fuel delivery.

    - ECU reeked like fried electronics, replaced it.

    - 75a fuse was blown, replaced it.

    - Replaced ignition coil, ignition control module.

    - The ignition wires are new and show no signs of damage.

    - Inspected cap and rotor, they look fine. No carbon deposits / pitting.

    - I have spark at the plugs, but when tested it was weak (orange color). Could be battery low, haven't tested on a fresh charge. Still wouldn't explain no start.

    - Thought the cylinders may be flooded. Removed plugs and let it sit for ~20 hours to evaporate.



    Is there any way the timing could have been thrown off by hooking up the battery wrong? I assumed not, because it is all mechanically set by timing chain and rotor position.

    What other reasons, besides timing, could I have spark and fuel, but no start?

    Thanks
    Austin
    Last edited by Austin_s13coupe; 03-03-2012, 02:49 PM.

  • #2
    Quick update:

    New ECU is throwing code 41 - Air Temp Sensor. The sensor is brand new and was replaced before this mess. Not to mention, I would think that the sensor being out would not prevent combustion altogether, that the engine would start, but just not run optimally.

    Comment


    • #3
      Welcome..

      It's been a while since I had to fix one of those issues, but check the fusible links and such right at the battery. I fried one once but you couldn't tell it was damaged from looking at it. That's *probably* not your issue, but it's worth taking a look.

      It's also possible you damaged the ignitor, thus the weak spart.

      also worth pulling the grounds loose on the chassis, cleaning them, and checking for damage or corrosion. that can never hurt.
      Originally posted by SoSideways
      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post

        It's also possible you damaged the ignitor, thus the weak spart.
        Yeah I replaced the ignitor, it is also commonly referred to as "ignition control module" or "transistor" from what I've read.

        This thing here:

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        • #5
          I'll double check the fuses and grounds. Thanks

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          • #6
            Pulled the fuel pump fuse and turned the engine over a few times to make sure the cylinders are clear.

            Sprayed some starter fluid in the manifold and it fired and died... time to troubleshoot fuel delivery now. :/

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            • #7
              When you turn the ignition on, do you hear the fuel pump fire up and run for ~5 sec?
              could be your fuel pump relay, could be the pump itself was damaged with the reverse polarity while trying to crank it.
              Originally posted by SoSideways
              I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
              '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
              '96 240SX- The Track Toy

              Comment


              • #8
                Well I was getting fuel up to the injectors because they were leaking, so the pump is working in some capacity. Not sure on the pressure yet, but I pulled the injectors last night and tested resistance, they are all way out of spec.

                Ordered some new (used / remanufactured) stock injectors on fleabay and they should be here Wednesday or Thursday. After I have them back in I'll look into other stuff if I still have issues.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Any idea where I can buy the harness plugs for the injectors? Two of them are kind of ****ed up and I want to wire in new ones.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I read an old forum post (don't remember which, google result) saying that Advance auto parts carries the pigtails. Called AutoZone and O'Reilly, no dice. They told me it was a dealer only item.

                    I called Larry H. Miller Mesa and the guy said he couldn't find it in the catalogue and suggested that I could probably find it at AutoZone, I assured him that no local auto parts chains carry it. He offered to call around for me... called me back and said that Power Nissan (I-10 & Elliot) carries several different types and suggested I take an injector down there to make sure I get the right plugs / pigtails.

                    I was going to go today, but I ended up having to work like 16 hours.. I'll go tomorrow for sure. Just an FYI incase anyone is looking for connectors and searches in the future.

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                    • #11
                      Doh, copy/paste from local forum, ignore the locale references... anyway, the point is you can find them through the dealership if you don't want to go snipping them off of junkyard cars.

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                      • #12
                        http://nissanroadracing.com/showthre...?t=2169&page=2

                        Originally posted by SoSideways
                        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Cool. Those are cheaper than from the stealership and look better quality too...

                          Car is up and running with the new injectors. One of the lifters was clacking really loud after the car sat a couple months. I let the engine warm up to normal temp and shut it down for a couple hours while I had dinner with some friends. Came back and the clacking is gone. So things I definitely fried by being careless with something as simple as a battery:

                          ECU
                          Injectors
                          and blew 75amp fuse

                          Good times..

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