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  • Good Motorsports Harness Building Thread

    Here is a good thread on how to build a wiring harness using milspec/motorsport spec materials.

    http://www.apexspeedtech.com/phpbb/v....php?f=4&t=438

    Look at the pretty pictures but go to the thread to read the full details. I found this full of good tips as the application side of how this is done is rarely covered on the internets.

















    The Nerd shall inherit the podium for knowledge is power.

  • #2
    Sweet, I've been thinking about doing something like this on my car for fun. Thanks!
    - Phil
    1995 240sx | KA24DE-T 309whp, 368lb-ft

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    • #3
      D38999 connectors are obscenely expensive, at least the nice ones. Those look kinda like the cheaper plastic ones - they like to break without too much abuse(made for lightweight, and the material is not very high strength).

      Plus big ones are a HUGE PITA to undo to screw in. Likely won't see them on a car, as you'd probably spend as much on it as you would an entry level ECU, but still, they aren't as badass functional as something like Wiggins clamps.

      I'm not a fan of electrical crap in general though...
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        Def - in the post he says he is using Deutsch autosport connectors. The real metal ones that cost $150 each. Got a bunch of old stock from a friend who was closing up shop or something.



        "The above shows the Deutsch connector before the boot (the large black hoop) is shrunk down on to the connector. The wires have service loops in them which is basically a 'pig tail' which gives a bit of spare wire if there is ever a need for a repair and this is covered with polymide tape to protect it and stop any of the 'glue' which seals the boots from sticking to the wires."

        "I am using a mixture of both Spec 55A and 55M wire as 55M is not available in gauges above 20 swg. I am also using both standard DR25 and DR25 TW (Thin Wall)"
        The loom shown here and the others I will be making are as a result of very good friends tolerating endless dumb questions, lending me the specialist tools and a lifetime of experience on how to make up the various twist patterns to give a nice lump free shape (at the cost of a little weight penalty) So I really have to thank them for making them look as they do.

        I have to admit (having discussed the cost of ECU and wiring related products with you before) it is easy to see how a custom made loom using Spec 55A / 55M, DR25 / DR25 TW, Raychem boots, Deutsch, AMP, without the costs of ETA circuit breakers or LRE relays must start from around $2000 - $3000 minimum and $5000 easily for evenly mildly complicated looms. The tools alone such as battery terminal crimps, DCM crimps, thermal label printers must cost $10000 before you look at integrity / continuity testers. :shock:

        But if its good enough for Airbus and 747's then I guess it should keep my project rolling for a few years.
        Here is a cool idea (applicable if you are using a ECU that is flexible in re-programming it's output/input channels like the Pectel SQ6 unit he is using.


        Each sensor connection on to this main loom has exactly the same socket which has, 5V, 12V, Analogue GND, Digital GND and signal which basically gives me the freedom to plug pretty well any sensor into any point on the loom and then alter the SQ6 setup to suit.

        In order to do this every sensor has to have the same connection (opposite gender to the loom) on it as well.
        Last edited by Umai Kakudo; 10-25-2009, 05:06 PM.
        The Nerd shall inherit the podium for knowledge is power.

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        • #5
          I would like to do something like this if I absolutely knew that I wasn't going to change my car anymore.
          Cory B.

          "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
          http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Umai Kakudo View Post
            Def - in the post he says he is using Deutch motorsport connectors. The real metal ones that cost $150 each. Got a bunch of old stock from a friend who was closing up shop or something.
            Oh, the aerospace ones are all olive green cadnium plated. The plastic ones save some weight, the metal ones are pretty damn heavy.

            I deal with them multiple times on a daily basis, and they suck in anything bigger than the size he has, of which you'd probably have a few on the car. Just saying, they're nice when you really need 'em, but a track car pulling 1.5 G's max really doesn't. Plus if you're rarely taking stuff off(like not almost everytime you work on the car), regular connectors are almost as fast and easy to put on/release.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Def View Post
              Oh, the aerospace ones are all olive green cadnium plated. The plastic ones save some weight, the metal ones are pretty damn heavy.

              I deal with them multiple times on a daily basis, and they suck in anything bigger than the size he has, of which you'd probably have a few on the car. Just saying, they're nice when you really need 'em, but a track car pulling 1.5 G's max really doesn't. Plus if you're rarely taking stuff off(like not almost everytime you work on the car), regular connectors are almost as fast and easy to put on/release.
              Yea I agree. I deal with them a lot, and they are great, but a little excessive IMO. They don't do well in corrosive environments either. Our external ones require cold shrink to avoid seizing up unless you go through and spray a corrosion preventive compound on them frequently.
              Cory B.

              "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
              http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

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              • #8
                Mr. Amphenol is the Devil. I HATE making up those damn connectors. I have to make up 36pin connectors for work on a regular basis. then again, the ones as pictured above are easy. it's the high density 10,000psi waterproof connectors that are a bitch. We've got a bunch that are 32 pins- solder cups at that- that fit through a 3/4" bore. maaaan those are a beyotch.
                Originally posted by SoSideways
                I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                  Mr. Amphenol is the Devil. I HATE making up those damn connectors. I have to make up 36pin connectors for work on a regular basis. then again, the ones as pictured above are easy. it's the high density 10,000psi waterproof connectors that are a bitch. We've got a bunch that are 32 pins- solder cups at that- that fit through a 3/4" bore. maaaan those are a beyotch.

                  Agreed. I hate signal tracing on these pins too. They are labeled, but every time I still look at the letter and say "is the pin to the left or right of the 'A' pin A..??"
                  Cory B.

                  "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                  http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The Deutsch DT and DTM connectors are a bit more normal in price but use the same style good crimp pins. Only thing I don't like about them is the connector bodies are not very compact.

                    I've been doing a wiring project and have been using the Delphi GT 150 and 280 series connectors.

                    http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/ee/connect/gts/

                    They are a lot like Weatherpack but not ugly. They also use a normal crimp tool and not a $200 one like the Deutsch DT series pins. Same price as weatherpack as well. I've got a few good sources for them if anyone is interested.
                    The Nerd shall inherit the podium for knowledge is power.

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                    • #11
                      WOW! Great thread!

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Cory View Post
                        Yea I agree. I deal with them a lot, and they are great, but a little excessive IMO. They don't do well in corrosive environments either. Our external ones require cold shrink to avoid seizing up unless you go through and spray a corrosion preventive compound on them frequently.
                        The plastic ones obviously have no problem with corrosion, but I've never seen one of the olive Cd coating have any sort of corrosion either. Then again, north TX isn't a really corrosive environment.

                        Maybe I'm just a little pissed at them because the ~3" diameter ones will tear the crap out of your bare hands when trying to take them off or install them and I have to do it all the time at work.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • #13
                          I see corrosion on them on a somewhat regular basis, but only ones that have been subjected to salt water and have been used many times so the anodizing is scratched. Electronics life in the marine sciences is a beyotch.

                          what's bad is we have some that are nickel plated bronze to resist corrosion better for our back-deck equipment that's subjected to salt water spray.. those are in worse shape than the aluminum ones, which should die a quick death in salt water. Then again, there's a reason those connectors are $350 each.
                          Originally posted by SoSideways
                          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            This thread also has some good information in it: http://fsae.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/1...5010656541/p/1

                            I've emailed the Indy Wiring Services guy in there before and he is very helpful. I would definitely recommend talking with him if you need something.
                            My Blog | Unfriendly Garage | Endurance Motorsports

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                            • #15
                              Jordon from Jordan Innovations would be the one to advise on this thread. He is pretty much the man when it comes to all things military spec.

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