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Def's New Ride: SW22

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  • #76
    haha - some people are so clueless on troubleshooting cars they immediately jump to something ridiculous like, "siezed motor."

    Granted, you take a basketcase project car to a shop and you're going to feel the financial pain really quickly, so maybe they figure "it's beyond my abilities, so I might as well firesale it and assume the worse to make my ego not hurt as much."
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


    • #77
      Haven't updated the thread in a while, so I'll try to hit some of the high points.

      Got some new MR2 Heaven floormats and shift knob:

      Knob leather looks off with the stock shift boot due to flash, but in person they look very close:

      Tossed on an '01 Camry V6 clutch slave cylinder to gain a bit more room for compressor inlet of EFR 6758. After getting it mounted, not sure it was 100% necessary, but it was pretty cheap, and now I don't have the funky bleed routing going on:

      Took the heatshields off and found some rust on the lower one where it mounted up against the firewall pad. I guess moisture had been getting trapped there for 25 years and it finally broke down the galvanize coat. I neutralized all the rust and will rust prevent prime it and paint it a pretty close match I found (Rustoleum Cast Aluminum):

      Got the Full-Race wastegate bracket in, and it moves things in nicely. Here it is with the Turbosmart dual port IWG75:

      GOOD NEWS! It fits:

      Downpipe area (looks to be pretty good for snaking a downpipe in there, shooting for a 3", but could always drop down to a 2.75" if I need more clearance and I doubt it'll do anything to power):

      Fairly stealth (going to be removing boost control solenoid since I've got a separate solenoid):

      Here's how the ports look before welding. I intentionally left some meat on the 2-3 runner short radius entry side (upper left in this pic). The radius is pretty tight there, so I'm going to continue the curve through the weld bead to help keep it attached there:

      I welded it up with my 130 A MIG with stainless 308L wire and it welded beautifully. I preheated it with a propane torch to ~200-250 F (~100-120 C for metric folk), and kept the welding pace up until it hit ~400-500 F (~200-260 C), then I was taking my time more letting both my welder on the part keep the same temp. No pics of the weld, but I'm porting it now and I'll snap some finished pics. No worries on it holding, since it's welded inside and out and it was wetting out nicely.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


      • #78
        Been working on the manifold a little bit every night, and got some new carbide burrs which made quick work of the remaining porting. Like 30 mins with dull burrs did maybe 40% of it, then ~2 mins with a fresh one finished off the remaining 60%.

        I'm not an expert welder, but I think with some preheat my 120V MIG did pretty good. I also wanted to show people you don't necessarily need a TIG for this job, so if you can afford a 120V MIG (I highly HIGHLY recommend one, it opens up so many new projects to you when working on cars), you can do this mod. The 308L stainless wire seemed to splatter a bit more than the ER70S6 mild steel wire, and once things got really hot it definitely stuck to the manifold. I cleaned the inside, ported with carbide burrs, then did some light finishing sanding with a sanding drum on my drill.

        Here are some pics if anybody is still following along:

        Ledge from manifold to flange made a nice fillet weld location:

        Wetted out nicely:

        Inside, thiings are nice and smooth, and there might some really small gaps right at the end of the flange, but everything is aiming to expand the flow out to there. I didn't think it was worth the risk of warping the flange trying to add a ton of weld material just to fill in tiny gaps that the flow won't really care about. I also filled in the inner corners of the flange that didn't quite match up to the T4 housing - not sure why Vibrant designed the flange like this:

        More inside shot - the bigger T4 entry really opens up the view to the turbo manifold port entries:

        All bolted up with gaskets, ready for install:

        You would not want to try to install an EFR on this manifold in the car. One, I don't think it's possible since the compressor seems to hang a bit over the slave cylinder. And two, the wastegate entry is highly optimized for flow, so there is only *just* enough space for a nut on one corner of the turbine housing to manifold flange. You have to put the nut in the space where it just fits and start turning it as the stud starts making contact with it. This ends up pulling the housing down with every turn, since it is perfectly supported on both sides of this nut. Somewhat hard to explain, but just know it's something you definitely want to do on a workbench, not upside down under an MR2!

        Installing a Defi Advance ZD setup, so I'm setting up sensors/senders in the engine bay. Got a nice surprise of my stock oil pressure sender snapping off in the head...

        I did the old trick of welding a bolt to the sender stub (easy to do in an aluminum head, as it won't stick to the aluminum), and even with all that heat put into it, it still sheared the sender threaded stub again (those little weld BB's push right off the aluminum)....

        So I drilled and tapped it to 1/8"-27 NPT and will use an NPT to -3 AN adapter out to a remote 1/8" NPT tee for both the stock sender (in a retapped to BSPT port) and the NPT Defi sender. Cleaned up pretty well running a bit of paper towel up there about 50 times. I'll leave it open and crank the engine over to push out any remaining small bits of aluminum:

        This is the bracket that was holding on my boost control solenoid and the 12V switched wire that was powering it. Yes, it is stuck on the unfused hot terminal of the fuse, and goes straight to the solenoid. So it's a completely unfused wire just hanging out in the engine bay.........

        The solenoid also was hardwired to the ECU on the signal side... so now is a perfect time to cut the wires, get the power distribution side settled with a proper fused circuit, and add a connector to the solenoid so it can be removed from the car (novel idea!). I also need a place to hold 3 pressure senders (Defi boost pressure sender, stock oil pressure sender, and Defi oil pressure sender), so I made up a quick bracket that will hold the 3 senders + the boost control solenoid that mounts to the driver's side rear strut tower.

        I also decided to forget the heat shield fab for the downpipe, as it was only going to cover a small ~4" segment of it, and only like half the downpipe at that, and just double header wrap the top part. The v-band is the EFR side, and I chopped up a CT26 style downpipe for the lower flange/bend. I added a 3" Vibrant bellows in the middle to remove all thermal strain from the growing downpipe being reacted back to the turbine. It's held on the 3 bolt flange with I think a KO Racing downpipe bracket.

        You can see the top bend is really really tight. I ended up doing some pie cuts on a ~5" CLR 3" OD mandrel bend, and I still had to end up doing a big cheater "bend" with a pretty abrupt step to make it all fit and not hit the AC lines (~1/4" gap to the insulated AC lines). This will affect flow somewhat, but it's not that different than how the 3" replacement downpipes cheat the angle from the CT26 outlet bellmouth down to the 3" tube section, so I'm pretty confident this won't mean much for power.

        The bellows stays cool due to it having a flow liner (pipe inside of it that "floats" on one side), so none of the exhaust flow actually hits the outside bellows convolutes. The lower part of the downpipe will get a bit toasty, but there's a 4"x4" copper wideband sensor heat sink that mostly blocks the AC compressor from seeing that section of the downpipe. It also seems like there's some amount of ceramic coating on the pipe down there, which might help keep things a bit more reasonable. Overall I think the heat load into the AC compressor and any hoses etc. in the area will be within stock levels, and everything is going to be thoroughly insulated.

        Next up, standalone fuse/relay box mounting and wiring for powering aftermarket bits, fab an intake pipe up, reinstall all the intercooler piping/intake manifold stuff I took off, wire up Defi ZD headunit and pull out the GReddy gauges, fill fluids and bleed coolant.... and I'm sure there's more that will come to me!

        I'll have more time to work on it next week, so I'm hoping to make some decent progress.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!