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Back from deployment with a pile of parts...

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  • Back from deployment with a pile of parts...










    So far, I have a Sparco steering wheel with a Works QR and my oil cooler installed. I have the front Koni's in, but I can't get the wheel to clear on the left side. I have some wheel spacers in the mail which will hopefully take care of the issue. This weekend I should make a lot of progress.
    Cory B.

    "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
    http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

  • #2
    are those longacre cases? what manifold is that? got a total parts list? i'm doing my best not to spend all my deployment money on car parts. you're not helping.

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks for serving, and yes detailed list please.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'll try to list...

        Intake manifold was made by "EviltoM" on KA-T.org
        Kelford 272 cams
        Dunlop Direzza Star Specs
        Z32 30mm brakes F&R
        Brembo Blanks
        Hawk HP+ pads
        Sparco 383 steering wheel
        Works quick release
        Sparco Evo2
        Lines/fittings from RPW for oil cooler
        Greddy oil cooler adapter with Tstat
        12 quarts of Redline 5w-40
        ARP wheel lugs
        Koni 8611s in Richard's housings with 8k/6k springs
        Z32 spindles with spherical bearins pressed in
        random piping for random stuff
        Another Apexi power intake
        Nagisa seat rails that don't fit my seat
        Greddy oil temp gauge
        Long oil cooler
        Longacre quick toe setting tool
        Longacre digital camber gauge
        SPL solid subframe bushings
        ATE super blue fluid
        NACA ducts & tube for brake ducting

        The seat is awesome. I will have to make custom brackets using the Nagisa rails, but it is going to kick ass.
        Cory B.

        "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
        http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

        Comment


        • #5
          Wow, I hope to have a Pile like that soon

          How did Kelford ship the cams too you?, Trying to figure out how to ship my cams w/o them getting warpped during shipment

          Comment


          • #6
            That sheisty bubble wrap and blue tape packing job looks familiar! Hope you get some good use out of them. Those were my favorite parts from my last build.

            I'm liking the Sparco Evo's. I'm looking for the standard Evo (narrow) seats, but I'm hesitant to cough up the money.

            Lemme know about tuning!
            She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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            • #7
              Christmas already?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by JRas View Post
                Christmas already?

                haha yea, just a few months late. I was underway for Christmas, so this kind of makes up for it.

                ....

                The cams were shipped to me via fedex. i don't think they will get warped during shipping. They were in two separate boxes. I think the actual Kelford box would be misshapen if anything heavy was placed on them that would warp them. Just don't have them shipped via USPS...

                Tuning will probably be a bit. I still need to buy injectors.

                I was kind of worried about sizing on my Evo2. I have ~36" waist and the seat fits perfectly with some room to spare. I'm about 220lbs.
                Cory B.

                "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                Comment


                • #9
                  I spent yesterday removing the subframe and swapping my hubs to the Z32 uprights. I also put the ARP studs in my hubs, which was much easier than I thought it would be. I just used a hammer and an idler pulley mount and smacked them in. I have pictures of everything and I will upload when I go home on Saturday. I torched the rubber bushings out of my subframe and installed a couple of the SPL subframe bushings. They are much beefier than I thought. The topside bushing was easy, while the bottom side barely went in. This weekend I am looking to have the car driveable.
                  Cory B.

                  "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                  http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    yeah when i got the spl subframe bushings i was like woah, it looks like a weapon out of xmen or something. Very beefy looking items, but I mean I guess all of the replicas same deal, just... the item itself looks sturdy :P At the end it's just a peice of aluminum but yea
                    "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

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                    • #11
                      Here are some update pics.

                      Solid Aurora bushings...

                      ARP wheel studs

                      Compared to stock



                      My wheel stud install tool(yes, that holds the idler sprocket on the KA)

                      Z32 spindle with stock 4lug hub and ARP wheel studs

                      *subframe bushing pain*


                      *subframe bushing death*

                      SPL goodness

                      As the car stands now
                      Cory B.

                      "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                      http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Which ARP studs are those? And they press right in?
                        SCCA requires some insanely long studs and open-ended lugnuts. I'm using either H&R or NISMO +10mm studs right now, but wouldn't mind going to a less expensive and higher quality replacement.. especially one that can get from just about any race parts supplier vs. Ni$$an.


                        Updates look good... keep it up!
                        Originally posted by SoSideways
                        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Why dosnt your Nams seat rail fit?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                            Which ARP studs are those? And they press right in?
                            SCCA requires some insanely long studs and open-ended lugnuts. I'm using either H&R or NISMO +10mm studs right now, but wouldn't mind going to a less expensive and higher quality replacement.. especially one that can get from just about any race parts supplier vs. Ni$$an.


                            Updates look good... keep it up!
                            pretty sure that ARP only makes one length of stud for our car.
                            SPL sells them and they're more expensive than nismo, iirc

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                              Which ARP studs are those? And they press right in?
                              SCCA requires some insanely long studs and open-ended lugnuts. I'm using either H&R or NISMO +10mm studs right now, but wouldn't mind going to a less expensive and higher quality replacement.. especially one that can get from just about any race parts supplier vs. Ni$$an.


                              Updates look good... keep it up!
                              They are the studs that SPL sells. They press right in.

                              ...

                              The seat rails do not fit the seat. They match the holes on the car, but not the seat. The adapter brackets are nowhere near long enough. The seat would also sit a little high because the studs that come off of the Nagisa seat rails prevent the seat from sitting down close to the floor. My plan is to cut them off and weld on brackets.
                              Cory B.

                              "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                              http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                              Comment

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