Rear suspension arm alignment bolt replacements

[Bumnah]

While tearing through the rear suspension. I started thinking about replacing the alignment bolt/washer on the rear upper control arms and the rear toe arms with non alignment bolts/washers/nuts.
What bolts/nuts can I use? I know I can take measurements and get replacements from mcmaster, I'd rather just pick them up from the stealership.

Can I order up the nuts/bolts that come are used on the traction arms, for use on the RUCAs and the toe arms? I'm going with aftermarket arms, so I don't need the stock alignment stuff.

Over analyzing? Keep the OEM hardware?

I need to order up shock mount bolts and nuts anyways.

Thanks in advance.
Bumnah.

[Matt93SE]

The OEM hardware is very high quality stuff. I'd just keep it in there and not adjust it. unless yours is rusted beyond safe use, you're better off leaving it alone.

Otherwise you need to go to an aircraft supply and pick up some matching bolts. I wouldn't trust anything from the hardware store. McMaster sells some quality bolts, but you have to watch the brands and stuff (and they're known for bait-and-switch... it's bitten us at work a few times).

[Bumnah]

any online sources for aircraft supply? I've always been under the impression you have to work in the aeronautics field to actually purchase items from their suppliers.

[Matt93SE]

Here's one place..

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/

Google has lots more.

[Bumnah]

Go. GA. Gooogle you say???? Hmmm... never heard of it.

[Def]

The OEM hardware is very high quality stuff. I'd just keep it in there and not adjust it. unless yours is rusted beyond safe use, you're better off leaving it alone.

Otherwise you need to go to an aircraft supply and pick up some matching bolts. I wouldn't trust anything from the hardware store. McMaster sells some quality bolts, but you have to watch the brands and stuff (and they're known for bait-and-switch... it's bitten us at work a few times).

I've never known McMaster-Carr to sell known counterfeit bolts. In fact, almost everything I've gotten from them that are Grade 8 are Unbrako bolts(pretty good industrial bolts).

You won't find metric aircraft fasteners in this country very easily, and if you do, you'll probably head straight to the dealer after seeing the price.

[Matt93SE]

Our problem wasn't with hardware. It was with some rigging equipment. We ordered 1" Domestic forged 316 stainless turnbuckle eyes- couple hundred bucks each. We were assured they were as described...

What showed up was stainless, but it was Chinese made cast 304SS. They completely dissolved in seawater in about 6 months, when the ones we sourced from Suncor stainless looked brand new after a dunk in some hydrocholoric acid to remove the barnacles.

As for hardware, you can often select brands from them, but I've received "equivalent" before. it's never been a problem since what we ordered wasn't critical, but we have been sent substitutes before.

[Bumnah]

While I was in the garage I pulled out my cheap $6 dial caliper, and my thread pitch gauge.
I measured the alignment bolt used on the upper control arm to bolt to the frame.

Length (not including head) = 66mm (remember cheap calipers probably off 1 or 2 mm)
Diameter = 10 mm
Thread pitch = 1.25
Thread part of bolt = 40 mm.

I found something comparable on Mcmaster.

65 mm length (not including head)
Same diameter and thread pitch.
The threaded part is not clearly listed. Mcmaster's site says it varies between 26 - 33 mm in length in thread.
The grade was 8.8.

Do you think it's a good option as a replacement?

Right now I'm thinking I'm making this step overly complicated. So I'll probably just use the original alignment bolts/nuts.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I replace that odd alignment washer with a regular washer, I would effectively make the alignment bolt a regular bolt. Correct?

Looking at the bolts used to hold the other arms on the frame; they are slightly shorter, but I think they can be used as replacement pieces. I'm guessing the alignment bolt is slightly longer because of the thick washer, and thicker head.

A lot of simple stuff but my curiosity is getting the better of me. The nut on the alignment bolt is different from the others as well. It looks sort of like a castle nut but it's not a castle nut. It has the prongs like the castle nuts but not anywhere near as prominent. Looking at it I'd guess the nut was designed like that so you can actually apply torque to it with a ratchet? Am I correct?

I'm probably over analyzing these bolts/nuts, but I'd like to exactly what the hell each piece is why it is the way it is. It's also my first time messing with this stuff.

Thanks for your help.

Bumnah.

[Def]

Use class 10.9 bolts as a minimum in suspension stuff. That's like an SAE Grade 8 bolt in strength(roughly).

[Bumnah]

At grade 10.9 I gotta step up to 1.5 thread pitch.

Everything else look on point?

I'm sorta leaning towards just getting plain washers for the bolts.

[Matt93SE]

What Def said.

With metrics, grade 8.8 is similar in strength to a grade 5 SAE bolt.
Grade 10.9 metric is similar to a SAE grade 8.

Check with Metric and Multistandard for those bolts. www.metricmcc.com
I buy bolts from them by the case for some of my other projects.
I'd send you the direct link to the catalog page, but adobe isn't working properly right now and I can't view the online catalog.


And you don't really NEED fine thread bolts. they're handy to have because they match stock... but if you're replacing the bolts and nuts, then you don't need fine threads.

I also use their all-metal locknuts (I think catalog number 981V IIRC). They're like the upper strut mount bolts that are mashed in on the edges to provide a positive locking force on the nuts at all times. you can use these in high-heat places where a nylock nut would melt.

[Bumnah]

Thanks for all the help guys. Learning a whole bunch about hardware by just playing around with different options for these bolts. Kinda the whole point of tearing stuff apart and rebuilding it. I'll check out the site you linked me to over the weekend. There is a local metric supply house near me, they may have something on hand that is even more similar to the oem bolts. mdmetric.com

Thanks again!

Bumnah.

[Def]

What Def said.

With metrics, grade 8.8 is similar in strength to a grade 5 SAE bolt.
Grade 10.9 metric is similar to a SAE grade 8.

Check with Metric and Multistandard for those bolts. www.metricmcc.com
I buy bolts from them by the case for some of my other projects.
I'd send you the direct link to the catalog page, but adobe isn't working properly right now and I can't view the online catalog.


And you don't really NEED fine thread bolts. they're handy to have because they match stock... but if you're replacing the bolts and nuts, then you don't need fine threads.

I also use their all-metal locknuts (I think catalog number 981V IIRC). They're like the upper strut mount bolts that are mashed in on the edges to provide a positive locking force on the nuts at all times. you can use these in high-heat places where a nylock nut would melt.

Always use distorted thread lock nuts in suspension components. ALL of the stock suspension nuts are the distorted thread type.

[a_ahmed]

http://www.brafasco.com/

I find my stuff up above, not sure if you guys have that in the states.

[Matt93SE]

Always use distorted thread lock nuts in suspension components. ALL of the stock suspension nuts are the distorted thread type.

Good point. I forgot all of them are like that on the suspension. been a busy day at work.
spent half the day tearing apart an insturment that a customer flooded. fixing flooded circuit boards is a beyotch. never know what component died- especially when they're coated in salt deposits.

then the boss walked in and told me to do a drawing at 3:45pm. "have it to me by end of business". FAWK.