Rear axles?

[Matt93SE]

Anyone had any problems with their OE rear axles?
Mine have a lot of play in them and are causing a lot of driveline slop and noise.

Overall goals for the car are ~220whp and will be used for road racing, so if I need to spend some money to get axles that will hold up, I have no problems with that.

Or do I just pick up another set of OEM axles and keep driving?

[Umai Kakudo]

I recommend you call the folks at the Driveshaft Shop.

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/contact.php

They specialize in driveline and CV upgrades and are extremely helpful. They work with a lot of the drag and drift people for 240sx and 350z and should be able to recommend the proper solution.

For 220 whp you should be fine with good condition OEM axles for road racing. It seems that they start breaking at 300hp + power levels in drag and drift applications where the shock loads are higher.

You can also look into the stronger 6 bolt flange axles found on the JDM 240's which would require swapping out the diff input flanges which used the larger diameter input shafts used on the VLSD's.

For the US axles the center bars are the weak link and the JDM axles got better material/heat treatment and the input shafts are lager diameter (requires the matching diff) and can take more abuse.

Here is a thread with pics to start the research: http://www.club240.com/forums/showthread.php?p=328500

[Bumnah]

i was able to source a rebuilt axle from napa when i busted my driver side axle. Nothing unique about it, but some people say you can't get a 240sx rebuilt axle from NAPA.

[Matt93SE]

Thanks for the info, guys. I shot an email to raxles as well, no response yet. I've had good luck with them on Maxima applications. the 240 should be no different since it's just a damn CV joint.

I'l check with NAPA and see if I can find some reman units or something. driveshaft shop is a bit out of my budget for the time being- especially since I'm not putting down 500hp. Snapping axles won't be my problem- just the constant wear and tear of a lowered car and lots of on/off transitions will wear out the joints themselves quicker than the OE stuff.

[Cory]

Thanks for the info, guys. I shot an email to raxles as well, no response yet. I've had good luck with them on Maxima applications. the 240 should be no different since it's just a damn CV joint.

I'l check with NAPA and see if I can find some reman units or something. driveshaft shop is a bit out of my budget for the time being- especially since I'm not putting down 500hp. Snapping axles won't be my problem- just the constant wear and tear of a lowered car and lots of on/off transitions will wear out the joints themselves quicker than the OE stuff.

Raxles is actually in my hometown...

[shoes59]

Thanks for the info, guys. I shot an email to raxles as well, no response yet. I've had good luck with them on Maxima applications. the 240 should be no different since it's just a damn CV joint.

I spoke with Marty @ Raxles a few years ago and was told he can't rebuild our axles because he said replacement bearings or CV's are not available. I've been suffering from a speed sensitive clunk in my rear since I've owned the car and have replaced EVERYTHING to rid the car of the noise. Swapping in a passenger side axle didn't solve the problem. The only thing left to do is swap in a drivers side axle which I'll be doing when I install my 300zx rear knuckles. Hopefully that is where the noise is coming from. Otherwise I'll just drive it till something breaks. That will tell me for certain where the noise is coming from.

[BeerBringer]

I have a clunking sound to. But I'm 99% certain it's to much backlash in the diff.

[Umai Kakudo]

For the clunk check the condition of the inner bushings on the rear LCA's. Often the OEM ones are so worn that with the E-Brake on you can push the bumper forward and see the LCA move at the inner bushings.

They wear out quickly with LSD's and start moving forward and backward under accel/decel and make most of the noise in the rear.

Replacing those bushings with something in better condition is critical to eliminating clunks and throttle induced wheel hop.

[shoes59]

I appreciate the possible solution to my woes but that's not where the noise is coming from. I already replaced all my bushings with either ES units or am running heim joints. I even bought a sub frame brace from Mazworx which needs to be welded to the face of the subframe where the diff has two mounting points. That and installing another drivers side axle will hopefully eliminate the noise.

BTW, sorry to thread jack.

For the clunk check the condition of the inner bushings on the rear LCA's. Often the OEM ones are so worn that with the E-Brake on you can push the bumper forward and see the LCA move at the inner bushings.

They wear out quickly with LSD's and start moving forward and backward under accel/decel and make most of the noise in the rear.

Replacing those bushings with something in better condition is critical to eliminating clunks and throttle induced wheel hop.

[Matt93SE]

No thread jack here.. The more information posted about the rear end clunking/noise issues common on the 240, the better.

I'm wondering if the noise isn't from other issues on mine as well-- I thought it was the differential with some slop in it, but a buddy of mine was playing with it and said he was pretty sure it was the axles. I haven't actually even pulled them off the car to check. it could be all of the above. I need to tear the rear end apart and see what's really happening.

[Bumnah]

Did raxles ever reply to you?

[Matt93SE]

Yeah.. They said they didn't have anything available for the 240.

[djsilver]

http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_rear_axles.htm

http://www.cvaxles.com/rebuild_and_return.htm

Cardone has reman axles; You just have to find someone who carries them.

https://www.cardone.com

Rear Left; 60-6047
Rear Right; 60-6059

Autozone lists availability of their "Duralast" brand and Advance Auto lists "GSP" brand axles.

To be specific, the 240sx axles use "tripod" joints with three rollers on both ends. When most folks talk about CV joints they're talking about Birfield joints which usually have five, but they're both a form of CV joint. Many half axles for FWD apps use tripod joints on the inner end and birfield joints on the outer end for more angle and tighter steering radius.

[Matt93SE]

Slowreilly's carries Cardone products. Problem is I don't trust Cardone crap after everything I've seen with the FWD parts. their reman stuff gets pulled every 1-2-3 years and replaced "under warranty". no thanks. I'd rather spend a bit more money and get one that only has to be replaced every 10 years.

That's my big hangup with reman parts... they're just cleaned and polished used parts for the most part. most of the reman places like cardone just machine the surface smooth and replace with slightly oversize bearings. problem is they don't re-heat treat the wear surfaces, so they die quicker than the old ones.

I'll email the people in the links above and see what they can come up with.

Thanks for the links.