Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

S14 subframe in S13 - touching trans hump

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • S14 subframe in S13 - touching trans hump

    So I got my car back on the road, and everything worked pretty well even though it's not really aligned right now(zero toe all around, thrust angles a little off).

    I noticed looking at the car that the subframe is touching the body of the car on the trans hump(front cross brace of the subframe that holds the front diff mounting).

    It's transmitting quite a bit of diff noise to the car, enough where it's a bit distracting. It's almost like a more gentle version of a straight cut gearbox.

    I'm using the stock S14 subframe bushings filled with Window Weld, and I lathed up some aluminum bushings to mount the back of the diff to the subframe(they are pretty similar to the SPL bushings). The front is solidly mounted to the subrame since it's an S13 diff case.


    Did anybody else experience this since I know a few people on here have S14 rear subframes in S13s.


    My only idea now is to try to lower the subframe a bit and beat out that area as much as possible.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

  • #2
    Or cut it all out and make a rear mount radiator like the DSG 240 that would be so cool lol.

    But yea i would just beat that area out untill it stopped vibrating it.
    SM 63 KA-t 470hp 480tq G30-660 A2W IC

    Comment


    • #3
      I thought I mentioned this... although I've described the install to many people now. Yes it will touch. I jammed a pry bar in between and "clearanced" it like that. There wasn't but 5mm of gap when I was done, but it was dead quiet. A few prys/stabs at it and that's all you need.
      She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Epstein
        I thought I mentioned this... although I've described the install to many people now. Yes it will touch. I jammed a pry bar in between and "clearanced" it like that. There wasn't but 5mm of gap when I was done, but it was dead quiet. A few prys/stabs at it and that's all you need.
        Ok, hopefully at most I just need to drop it down a bit to clearance it, maybe can do it with it still up.

        Did your S13 front mount "reinforcement braces" touch the S14 subframe? I bent the subframe edge down a bit to give it more clearance, and took a torch to both to try to change their bend, but it still hits the subframe even with about a 1" spacer on the body. I'm wondering if some noise could also be coming from those.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • #5
          Mine cleared barely. They were at a wacky angle though. About 1" spacer sounds right.
          She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

          Comment


          • #6
            Mine clears by about 1/4" but I guess that's because my poly locking collars are about 1/4" thick

            "Did your S13 front mount "reinforcement braces" touch the S14 subframe? I bent the subframe edge down a bit to give it more clearance, and took a torch to both to try to change their bend, but it still hits the subframe even with about a 1" spacer on the body. I'm wondering if some noise could also be coming from those."

            My S13 braces did hit the subframe. I handled it by using a longer bolt and putting a spacer under the end that bolts to the body.

            Last edited by djsilver; 02-14-2009, 06:55 PM. Reason: Poor reading skills
            Don Johnson (really!)
            Just so you know.

            Comment


            • #7
              That's about what mine look like with the same thickness spacer. I took a pry bar to the trans hump and got the bodywork away from that and it's much quieter now. Maybe a tad more drivetrain noise than with the S13 subframe, but I'm thinking that's from those braces touching the subframe and the body. You'd have to space them out REALLY far to not get contact it looks like, and the angle would likely tear up the front bushings from the non-uniform force all the time.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

              Comment


              • #8
                Where did you get those poly collars by the way? I have no additional reinforcement on my bushings other than filling them with Window Weld. They feel solid, but if those aren't very expensive I might get a set and toss in the bottom ones.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                Comment


                • #9
                  Peak performance makes poly collars.

                  frsport and phase2 carry them, I think.

                  For the windoweld, did you just apply directly to the bushing area with everything in the car? (i'm assuming you did).

                  My subframe still clunks with alum. spacers (or something does).

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Yep, I took some advice from Epstein and drilled out a few areas on the bushings that were stretched pretty good and some on the inside where it's compressed just to get some stress off the bushing. Then put in the Window Weld and pressed it in thoroughly. Seems reasonably solid after it all cures.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      These guys in australia do them, Made by fulcrum, dont know if you have a supplier over there for them, but you could pick them up for $30-40 USD + Postage here. (depending on who you go through)

                      I stole this pic off a local forum
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Not to bump an old thread, but Tein is a dealer of the Super Pro stuff. I bought my Super Pro front poly bushings from them. Just some information for future searchers.

                        Comment

                        Working...
                        X
                        😀
                        🥰
                        🤢
                        😎
                        😡
                        👍
                        👎