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  • GReddy oil pressure sensor questions

    GReddy oil pressure sensor is 1/8 PT threading.
    I'm running a Touge Factory (TF) oil block. The oil block has 1/8 NPT threading.

    I searched around on the web for a few hours to see how others solved it. I found some information but nothing that is a certain fix. I'm looking for your opinion on how to resolve it. Here's a few solutions I have in mind.


    01. Put Teflon tape on the oil pressure sensors (GReddy and OEM) and put them in TF oil block. I just went out and tried screwing the GReddy sensor in the block, went in fine. Very smoothly. I'm thinking some Teflon tape and I'll be fine. Searched FA for a bit, I found some old posts where people recommended this as well.

    02. Buy a Tomei piece and use that instead. Since the Tomei piece is -10 ports, I'd have to swap over -8 ports from my TF block to work with the lines I already have.

    03. Find an adapter. I've found BSPT > NPT adapters, but not the other way around. BSPT is the same as PT. I see Defi makes an adapter; I'm trying to find out if it's the proper adapter right now.

    04. Re-tap the TF ports to 1/8 PT. Least preferred way of fixing the problem.

    Anyone else have any experience with this situation? If so, how did you resolve it?

  • #2
    Just screw it in there. BSPT and NPT is close enough that you can get plenty of thread engagement and seal on the threads. It's not optimal, but it works just fine, and makes sense when you think about how a taper thread works. You're just forcing the threads to take a bit more load by the time you get everything sealed up by having a different thread pitch.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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    • #3
      BTW - I rant about this all the time on Zilvia - but you *ALWAYS* use teflon tape on tapered threads(BSPT and NPT), and *NEVER* on parallel threads(oil/coolant bolts on SR block, any other threads on your car like the oil pan drain bolt, coolant drain bolt etc). It's designed to act as a gasket on the threads of a tapered thread as they lock together to seal up any tiny imperfections in the threads/nicks etc.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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      • #4
        Last time we were dynoing a shop's drift car, they had forced an 1/8NPT sensor into the stock BSPT hole and oiled down the dyno. I've always been keen on using the right threads ever since then. I know, the difference is only 28TPI versus 27TPI.

        Hey Bumnah, I've got a spare one of those Defi NPT male / BSPT female adapters. PM me your address and I'll drop it in the mail.
        She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Bumnah View Post
          02. Buy a Tomei piece and use that instead. Since the Tomei piece is -10 ports, I'd have to swap over -8 ports from my TF block to work with the lines I already have.
          What do you guys think about running -8AN lines for a SR oil cooler setup? From the research I've done, -10AN makes more sense.

          I did a comparo on the Circuit Sports and Tomei pieces on FreshAlloy not too long ago, and although the Tomei one comes with -10AN male adapters that thread into the block, the I.D restriction is the same as the -8AN one that threads into the CS block. But...while you have the same orifice size in and out of the block, I nonetheless think it a better idea to run -10AN lines everywhere.
          Last edited by 2Fass240us; 01-12-2009, 08:08 AM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 2Fass240us View Post
            What do you guys think about running -8AN lines for a SR oil cooler setup? From the research I've done, -10AN makes more sense.

            I did a comparo on the Circuit Sports and Tomei pieces on FreshAlloy not too long ago, and although the Tomei one comes with -10AN male adapters that thread into the block, the I.D restriction is the same as the -8AN one that threads into the CS block. But...while you have the same orifice size in and out of the block, I nonetheless think it a better idea to run -10AN lines everywhere.
            So just run the -10 lines. When i finally get my oil cooler setup for my ka im goin with the -10 sizes.

            Other question is there an adapter for the stock oil pressure port to be able to run a oil temp and pressure sender without running a oil filter sandwich plate?
            SM 63 KA-t 470hp 480tq G30-660 A2W IC

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            • #7
              Originally posted by GodspeedS13 View Post
              So just run the -10 lines. When i finally get my oil cooler setup for my ka im goin with the -10 sizes.
              I ran -10AN. I' asked to prove to someone else that he needs to ditch the -8AN crap.

              Originally posted by GodspeedS13 View Post
              Other question is there an adapter for the stock oil pressure port to be able to run a oil temp and pressure sender without running a oil filter sandwich plate?
              Why not run the oil temp sender from the oil pan? That is a more accurate meaurement of the temperature than you would see at any point in the system AFAIK.

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              • #8
                Good point, never thought of that. What are other good places to put the oil temp sensor at then?

                Would have to weld a fitting to the oil pan then to use the temp sensor on the ka. But where at on the pan? Next to the drain plug somewhere?
                SM 63 KA-t 470hp 480tq G30-660 A2W IC

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                • #9
                  mine is welded into the pan about midway down, about where the sump is, on the drivers side. just make sure it's not in the way of anything else and you should be fine. I just took a nut to my welder and drilled the hole and then welded the nut to the pan.

                  I also was debating the -10 vs -8 lines. I picked up an oil cooler on ebay for $10 and it's -8 so i figured i would run those but if you guys strongly feel that -10 is the way to go, then i will look for another one.

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                  • #10
                    How about this adapter?
                    http://www.nissport.com/catalog/prod...ctCode=NS-2100
                    a bit pricey but...

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by hai1206vn View Post
                      How about this adapter?
                      http://www.nissport.com/catalog/prod...ctCode=NS-2100
                      a bit pricey but...
                      owned this one, never again. Nice idea, but at least on the FWD application you could only get access to 2 of the 3 ports and typically with a larger oil pressure sensors, on track it could cause the adapter to move which always lead to a leak... at least it did with me after every trackday . Some found it easy to use a short piece of AN line to move it off the block, but then the costs start adding up.

                      Also, nissport doesn't really sell much, or respond, to sales inquires anymore. They were just a couple of guys in a garage and have gone different directions since about 3 years ago.
                      Last edited by McCoy; 01-17-2009, 08:08 AM.
                      -Monty

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by 2Fass240us View Post
                        Why not run the oil temp sender from the oil pan? That is a more accurate meaurement of the temperature than you would see at any point in the system AFAIK.
                        I plan to use one of the ports on the Greddy sandwich t-stat adapter. I would go the oil pan route, but I put this engine together and the pan sealed up nicely. I really do not want to drop the pan again when there will be ports available...

                        There is the option of using a punch though...
                        Cory B.

                        "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by McCoy View Post
                          owned this one, never again. Nice idea, but at least on the FWD application you could only get access to 2 of the 3 ports and typically with a larger oil pressure sensors, on track it could cause the adapter to move which always lead to a leak... at least it did with me after every trackday . Some found it easy to use a short piece of AN line to move it off the block, but then the costs start adding up.

                          Also, nissport doesn't really sell much, or respond, to sales inquires anymore. They were just a couple of guys in a garage and have gone different directions since about 3 years ago.
                          That's how I have my oil pressure sensor setup, and it is a bit pricey, but I finally got it to stop leaking after messing with it. It did like to loosen itself and start leaking for sure.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by McCoy View Post
                            on track it could cause the adapter to move which always lead to a leak... at least it did with me after every trackday . Some found it easy to use a short piece of AN line to move it off the block, but then the costs start adding up.
                            Agreed. I agree with the idea that vibration could cause stress fractures where the threads meet the body.

                            I think it's worth $20 to move it to the firewall or strut tower on the SR. If you have an oil manifold for a KA-T, putting it there makes the most sense.

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