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Battery relocation pos. cable routing

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  • Battery relocation pos. cable routing

    I'm relocating my battery to behind the passenger seat and I'm torn on how to route the positive cable. I've got three choices:

    1. Go through a rubber grommet outside the cabin and run it along the passenger framerail with MS rubber clamps holding it.

    2. Run it along the passenger seating area and up through the small AC evaporator line firewall pass through.

    3. Run it along the passenger seating area up through the rubber grommet going to the pass. fenderwell.


    Number 2 sounds nice, but not sure if I can fit the wire up around the evaporator box once I put it in there(wish I could get the NLA non-AC duct from Nissan for more space). My next choice would probably be number 1 just so I could really make sure it's isolated and the passenger couldn't potentially mess with it on track(kick/pull it).

    Any ideas? I'm not really worried about the wire getting damaged running by the frame rail on number 1, as the clamps I'd use are "very nice" rubber lined aluminum clamps. Number 3 is my least favorite idea, but it seems to be the most common in the 240SX world. Not sure why, as I'd think the highest chance of making a short would be something hitting it in the fenderwell. I already have that access point capped off with an aluminum sheet too trying to reduce static pressure in the engine bay, so I'd have to mess with that to get it through(probably with a grommet). The few inches in the fenderwell and running right by the ECU just doesn't sound like a good plan to me if I can avoid it.

    Thoughts?
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

  • #2
    Don't think about it to much, its just a battery cable.... #1 though
    -Ryan

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    • #3
      Shorting the cable out on the chassis would be a good way to end a weekend at the track, so it deserves at least a little bit of thought.


      I analyze everything I do to my car anyway...
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        Bah... grommets, rubber mounts, and well shielded wire will probably be better off than stock no matter which way you run it. I would hesitate running it around the passenger area because people's feet have a funny way of getting at **** you think they couldn't get at.. then you might have a problem.
        -Ryan

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        • #5
          Very true, hard to inspect a cable that's under carpet too and some fat bastard could be making it rub against a dull surface enough to get through the insulation. I did pay a bit more to go with some "audio shop" wire due to the thicker insulation vs. "automotive wire."
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            Depending on what kind of accessories you have, you'd save more weight by just using one of those lightweight batteries (Odessy, etc) and leaving it in the engine bay. I've looked at it a little and if you move the fuel filter you could probably mount it down low by the right side frame rail.
            Don Johnson (really!)
            Just so you know.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by djsilver View Post
              Depending on what kind of accessories you have, you'd save more weight by just using one of those lightweight batteries (Odessy, etc) and leaving it in the engine bay. I've looked at it a little and if you move the fuel filter you could probably mount it down low by the right side frame rail.
              +1, Mine is still in my trunk only because the previous owner routed the + cable back there and I haven't had the time to redo the wiring.

              http://www.batterymart.com/p-odyssey-pc680-battery.html

              I'm using one of those in the trunk but eventually would like to move it back up front. If you can make it fit up front I would keep it simple and use that. As long as you aren't running 2 18's in the trunk with a 10,000,000 Watt amp the PC680 should be just fine. Only warning I give you going that route is don't even leave a radio or headlights on AT ALL. It won't take much to kill it. Friend of mine is using the same model for his S2000 daily driver, no issues.

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              • #8
                I've had a PC680 for 4 years now, but I'm moving it behind the passenger seat to get some weight off the nose since it's so far up there. The 4 Ga cable really doesn't weigh much, maybe a few lbs for the ~10' run, and I think the little extra weight will be more than worth it getting some more weight back on the passenger rear tire and off the front.

                The evaporator pass through is actually really tempting to use because it's already there, so I think I might lay things out and see how it looks.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Def View Post
                  I've had a PC680 for 4 years now, .
                  Good to know as I just switched to mine recently........

                  Of your cable routing options I think I'd route it inside the car..... which pass-through to use I'm not sure.

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                  • #10
                    I'm about to relocate my PC680 and I was wondering....

                    What do sanctioning bodies say about dry cell batteries mounted in the passenger compartment? I'm talking about drag strips and novice track day / HPDE stuff.

                    I'm planning to mount it behind the passenger seat on an audio-grade 4ga cable. I'm going to run it up the tunnel, inside the car. I'm working on relocating the relay box under the glovebox, too. I'll punch a hole and install a gromet near the starter for the starter/battery cable and other lower harness connections. Normal engine harness stuff will go through the normal grommet.
                    She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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