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If I were to sell my SR

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  • If I were to sell my SR

    How much should I ask?

    Purchased as a clip 5 years ago for $2,100 + $500 shipping from Cali. The more I got into the motor, the more I realized it would be a good idea to rebuild. I have around $3,500 in the rebuild. Mods are:

    0.5mm overbore to 86.5mm
    CP pistons, 8.5:1 CR, 86.5mm
    new main bearings
    GTi-R rod bearings
    stock rods with ARP fasteners
    ARP mains
    ARP head bolts
    Cometic HG
    3-angle valve joerb
    new exhaust valve guides
    GReddy rocker arm stoppers
    properly-bled lifters
    new timing chain, guides, and tensioner
    new front cover/oil pump assembly
    new water pump
    new coolant temp sender
    all new gaskets
    clean IACV with metal adjustment screw
    Nismo thermostat
    powercoated valve cover
    coolant hose mod to clean up routing
    S14SR water neck with -6 BMRS line to T25 center housing
    non-smoking T25 with very little shaft play

    Most of you guys are familiar with my build and my build threads, and know that I am very anal retentive about stuff like this. The engine does not smoke, and runs very well. No unusual noises or oil burn.

    Thoughts?

    TIA,
    Andy

  • #2
    What, why?

    Going rate is around $2k for a stock redtop, which may or may not be a total piece of crap. Maybe $3k for yours? I don't think the market for these cars or used parts recoups very much of what you put into them, even if you do things very carefully and document it like you did. You never know though.
    ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
    ~2016 M3, daily driver

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    • #3
      Originally posted by turtl631 View Post
      What, why?
      I'm thinking about going with a different powertrain, and adding up what I think I can get for my stuff. This is all theoretical right now. If the money doesn't work, the engine stays.

      Originally posted by turtl631 View Post
      Going rate is around $2k for a stock redtop, which may or may not be a total piece of crap. Maybe $3k for yours? I don't think the market for these cars or used parts recoups very much of what you put into them, even if you do things very carefully and document it like you did. You never know though.
      What is a longblock worth? I have seen varying prices. There is a complete engine, trans, ECU and wiring harness on eGay now for $1,450. From a brief search (where I could even find them), the whole package including trans, clutch/flywheel, ignitor chip, etc. is ~$2k.

      I can sell the trans with the engine...that isn't a problem. I have a Tomei flywheel and Exedy 3-puck ceramic clutch that I paid $865 for brand new. Depending on condition, maybe this is worth 1/2 now?

      I didn't include the Tomei oil block as I'm thinking of selling it with the oil cooler setup. I paid $200-ish for it, plus the fittings, and would likely add $150 to the motor cost for it, as this would be an easily-recouped cost.

      I also forgot the GReddy pan, which are hot items based on the price.

      Comment


      • #4
        I'd say 2.5-3k max. I've seen drop in 400-450 rwhp SRs with a similar build go for about 3.5-4k, so that's definitely going to put downward pressure on what you can get. Keep in mind shipping isn't cheap on these either.

        What other engine would you go for? Get a real turbo on there and I think you'd fall in love with the SR all over again. The T25 is pretty meh and doesn't let the motor strut it's stuff. 14 psi from a T28 on the track is fun for sure.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          You'd probably get more money back out of the motor if you parted it out.

          That seems like a lot of motor work to just have a T-25 on there personally. I know just putting a S15 turbo on a stock red top makes it feel like a completely different motor, so I bet it would be real fun on your car w/ like 15psi, some 550cc injectors + tune and some cams and you've got yourself a whole different monster, haha.

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          • #6
            Like the other have said, I think that you'll get around 2.5-3K for the setup as well. I would just keep it if you're in that deep already. What setup do you have in mind?

            I'm in a similar situation as you but I'm not as deep financially in it as you, since I haven't installed the forged goodies yet. I'm at a point where I'm about to sell it all off. Just keep it man, I've kept up with you build and that was a lot of inspiring blood and sweat that you put into that engine.

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            • #7
              Andy, you at least need to drive an SR with an S14 T28 or a GT2871R before you make a decision like this. After driving Brians (YourMom) car on track this year with the 2871R at near 18psi, I found the car to handle quite well with plenty of power on tap. I'm scared to think what his car will do with R-compounds on it .
              -Monty

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              • #8
                I have the T25 on it now because I needed to address some other things before I added power. And even taking a hit on the engine and selling for $2.5-3k, I could sell everything else and probably get the swap I want.

                I have no cash to upgrade the turbo, cams, injectors, MAF, tune, and get a FMIC.

                I am not 100% on this, mind you, but it is the preferred option for me at this point. I have a LOT of cash in that car that I could free up by swapping drivetrains.
                Last edited by 2Fass240us; 11-18-2008, 09:59 AM.

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                • #9
                  Eh, $3.0k with tranny and clutch, if you've got 6 months to wait. You're going to have a hard time even finding someone with the $3.0k to buy it. The people with that kind of cash on hand aren't spenging in on this, and little Timmy isn't getting a built SR for Christmas. You're not going to see the buying/selling pick up until March/April when tax returns start trickling in, if at all. It's going to be a sad 6-9-12 more months for this industry/scene. Man, I'm glad that ROM tunes aren't my primary job!
                  She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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                  • #10
                    Yeah, I know this isn't the ideal time of year to act. Right now it's in the "research" phase though. I wouldn't sell anything until the Feb timeframe.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by McCoy View Post
                      Andy, you at least need to drive an SR with an S14 T28 or a GT2871R before you make a decision like this. After driving Brians (YourMom) car on track this year with the 2871R at near 18psi, I found the car to handle quite well with plenty of power on tap. I'm scared to think what his car will do with R-compounds on it .
                      I'm still the slowest part of that whole equation. I must say though, it spikes at 19psi then drops to about 14-15ish and holds till almost redline. but typical boost gauges read way different so FWIW.

                      totally agree you need a new turbo, 300+hp is very addicting and decent amount of power to basiclly take on alot of different cars. hanging with e46 M3's on street tires is pretty rewarding.

                      Most PM answers: F 17X9 +22, R 17X9 +35

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                      • #12
                        What's this alternative drivetrain you're thinking of, anyways? If it has pushrods, I'm gonna send you to Canada to live with Ahmed and fantasize about chevys together.

                        Just from personal experience and seeing other people build cars, what sounds good on paper almost never works out in real life when it comes to swapping drivetrains to save some money and get better results. The little things really get you and you always over-value your current stuff and under-value the parts you need to get the new setup in the car and working.

                        Also, your motor is a pretty good foundation to get enough power to pretty much max out the average S13. I figure that unless you have a totally balls out setup, you're never going to really be able to utilize over 450 whp on track, and more like 350whp realistically for weekenders on a budget like us. After selling off the equivalent parts you have now, is a ROM tune, injectors, MAF, turbo, perhaps some cams, and a FMIC really that big a cost compared to swapping a whole drivetrain? I haven't even swapped mine yet, but the STi injector/Z32 MAF/T28 combo seems like a pretty sweet spot for power/$ on the SR.
                        ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
                        ~2016 M3, daily driver

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I agree with the turtle. Did you accurately budget what your SR swap cost? I felt I was conservative and still underestimated the cost after I counted up all the replaced gaskets, seals, gaskets etc which is hustsmart to do while the engine is out.

                          I'm feeling you're getting all ahmed over a Chevy motor, and I think it's safe to say there are MANY areas of hidden cost in something like that.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Def View Post
                            I agree with the turtle. Did you accurately budget what your SR swap cost? I felt I was conservative and still underestimated the cost after I counted up all the replaced gaskets, seals, gaskets etc which is hustsmart to do while the engine is out.
                            I plan on going back to re-review later this week. I will update the total once I do.

                            Originally posted by Def View Post
                            I'm feeling you're getting all ahmed over a Chevy motor, and I think it's safe to say there are MANY areas of hidden cost in something like that.
                            LAWL, thanks Dr. Phil. You're just jealous I landed some JDM S13 Bilsteins, aren't you? Admit it!

                            Actually, it's a GMC motor. I have a friend doing a similar swap and he has helped me uncover a lot of the "little things." Comparing cost is a work in progress, but so far it looks like I can come pretty close to breaking even. Meaning I can spend little to no money (certainly less than the turbo/injectors/blahblahblah talked about here). Hell, even if I put that same money into the new motor versus upgrading the goodies on the current one, I have more power. Tell me how that doesn't make any sense. I don't even have a FMIC right now...

                            And you guys give me flak if you like, but I've started to think they might be better platforms, especially given that I might drop it into a S14 someday to have a more comfortable street/track car.

                            The main unknown now is how much power I will want down the road. If it's much North of 300rwhp, the SR makes even less sense.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I've had my FWD built motor for sale for 5 months now, at 3.5k. It's gotta...quite a bit of money into it.
                              Between rides...unless you count a WD21...

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