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  • Nismo diff stubs?

    I have an older Nismo clutch diff that uses the stubs from an open differential. It's just a basic clutch type, no GT/ProGT or any of that fancy stuff, but I got it cheap enough I don't mind experimenting on it. Did any Nissans with R200 open diffs also come with 5-bolt stubs? I'm switching to J30/Z32NA CV axles. If not, I guess I'll be cutting the flanges off of a pair of J30 VLSD stubs and welding them onto a pair of open-diff shafts.
    Don Johnson (really!)
    Just so you know.

  • #2
    What about going straight to 350z 6x1 pattern if you're going to cut and weld?

    Can't say I came across a 5x1 stub from a non-vlsd car in the US. Probably JDM only.
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    • #3
      I can do that, but that means cutting down the 350z axles, or using Q45/300zxTT axles and wheel bearings. I'm more comfortable cutting welding the stubs/flanges than cutting axles. The 6x1 axles are plenty strong, but add more weight as well. I have a set of equal-length 350Z stubs I'll measure and compare to the Nismo diff measurements.
      Don Johnson (really!)
      Just so you know.

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      • #4
        Isn't it more of a potential balance issue on the stubs? They're much larger in diameter than the shaft. Plus if you get a tight fitting sleeve that'll align the axle itself.

        And is a 350z axle that much wider than a J30 or Z32 axle? I had a Z32 rear subframe at some point and it was way wider than an S13 one.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          S14 240sx 58.3/57.9
          J30 59.1/58.9
          350z 60.5/60.6

          It creeps up. Track width isn't a perfect comparison, because it's affected by the tire size used in the calculation.
          The J30 is an inch, but the diff is the same width
          The 350z is 2.7" wider, but the diff is ~3/4" wider, so that accounts for some of it.

          I have a lathe, so I can center the pieces of the flanges and tack them together there. I agree that the shafts can be shortened as well, but I'd pay someone to do that.
          Don Johnson (really!)
          Just so you know.

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          • #6
            Can you explain why you're scared to shorten the axle shafts, but you'd weld on the stub?

            I agree the stub welds will have a greater torsional second moment area of inertia (J), so the welds will see less stress for the same drivewheel torque, but I think welding the axle the best you can, then a thick doubler sleeve would get the strength up to a sufficient level. I wouldn't be concerned with balance on the axle shafts.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              I'd rather weld the stubs for the reason given (J). I know about controlling heat and I know how to do it without annealing the case-hardened splines.

              I'd rather not shorten axles because I don't have anything to chuck them in that will give me confidence in being straight, nothing related to confidence in my welding skills. I'm cheap, not skaird. ;-)
              Don Johnson (really!)
              Just so you know.

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              • #8
                But the axle shaft would be super easy to keep straight. Make a tight slip fit sleeve with two windows in it. Slip it over cut shaft pieces, tack weld, cut sleeve then weld up.

                Centering the stubs seems really complicated even with a lathe. How were you planning to do it? You probably won't have a common OD to indicate a centerline on, which makes it hard.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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