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Looking for some guidance on setting up my s13 right the first time

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  • Looking for some guidance on setting up my s13 right the first time

    So I recently bought another S13 hatch that I plan to turn into a track day/time attack monster. The car is COMPLETELY stock 90 auto se hatch. I already have the parts for a 5spd swap so that will be taken care of. Next up is suspension then brakes. Here is what I'd like some guidance on:

    S14 rear subframe: So id like to upgrade to the s14 subframe but the info ive found on here and nicoclub is somewhat confusing. do I need JUST the subframe, diff cover and swap bushings and swap my s13 arms on? or do I need all the arms and links and such? I plan to upgrade all my links and arms anyway so would it be easier to just use s14 stuff? what about the front s14 subframe, what is needed for that swap, or is it even worth while?

    z32 aluminum knuckles: I already bought some and id like to swap them into the s14 subframe once I get one. what complications will I run into running and s14 subframe in an s13 chassis with z32 knuckles? again, ive searched but haven't really found a straight answer. I know the z32 knuckles can go into s14 subframes, is it worth it?

    wheels: ultimate goal is to run as wide a tire as possible but I don't really want to go wide body, id do a fender roll and pull for sure. what offsets and widths should I look at for an 18" wheel (I'm going brembo bbk so gotta run 18's). id like to fit at least a 265 but would be great to fit 285 front and rear.


    thanks for all the help! I'm super pumped on getting this beast on the road!!!

  • #2
    The RLCAs are a bit different -- different width mounting points. I used s14 RLCAs rather than stacking a bunch of washers around the s13 bushings to take up the slack.

    The arms are the same but the mounting point on the s14 is wider so you need s14 conical spacers for the rod end, or you can stack washers there, too.

    Front s14 subframe isn't a thing you swap.

    Z32 knuckles work fine with s14 subframe. Easy way to cut weight as long as the lower mounts for your coilovers are available.

    Go look at the max tire thread on zilvia for ideas about size/offset.

    edit: Seat time is obv the most important mod. If you don't have a ton of seat time, I'd start there after getting the basics done on your 240.

    edit 2: There is a pretty standard NRR-spec build that people generally follow. The recipe works, and I highly recommend it.
    Last edited by e1_griego; 09-24-2015, 03:53 PM.

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    • #3
      Thanks for the help!! I totally forgot about the rlca. I do remember reading that also. The coil overs I'm looking at are either tein or kw right now. Brakes will probably be Evo swap. I have tons of seat time in my wrx bur none in this car. Once it's set up I'll be doing track days for sure! Laguna is in my back yard which is really convenient

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      • #4
        I'd go KWs after feeling both higher end KWs and Teins.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          that's what I was leaning towards. anyone have an experience with the ddc? is it worth the money?

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          • #6
            Do they even make that for our cars?

            Aren't those like $5k+ coilovers?

            I'd sum it up as a gimmick. Do you really need to use your phone to adjust your damping level from inside the car?
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              IIRC the lower TA classes mostly don't allow any on-the-fly adjustment systems for damping anyway.

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              • #8
                so a little update and some more questions. I ended up buying an s14 rear subframe with all the arms attached, a vlsd, z32 aluminum rear spindles, and srt8 brembo 4 piston calipers front and rear. so my questions now are:

                while the subframe is out I am going to replace the bushings, should I go with energy or solid?

                coilovers: what is my BEST option? I'm not looking for high dollar baller stuff. I want something that is going to perform really well on the track. what hurdles will I have to overcome with an s14 subframe attached to z32 rear spindles in an s13? I've looked at the koni option as well and cant decide between that or kw.]

                should I upgrade the rear suspension arms while I have it out or is that not really necessary?

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                • #9
                  There are no poly conversion bushings, so you have to go solid.

                  You will probably need to do the rear arms to get the alignment you want.

                  Not sure what off the shelf options there are at this point for z32 lower mounts, outside of stance/megan/whatever. KW can probably work with you, or you can use z32 rear yellows and do GC in back.

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                  • #10
                    Just be sure that whatever rear subframe bushings you order are S13 to S14 subframe conversion bushings.

                    For off the shelf coilovers I'm still impressed with the Fortune Auto 500's that are on my beater and I think they can be ordered with the Z32 lower mounts as well.
                    Originally posted by Matt93SE
                    in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

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