Brake talk, what works for you?

[Cory]

First off, a great brake read:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=94734

Now, with that said... I would like to hear what you are running for brakes, and what you do and/or do not like about your setup.

Right now, I am on a Q45 front/stock rear setup with ATE super blue fluid, Hawk HPS pads on all, and Kumho MXs 245 front, 255 rear. My biggest issue right now is too much front bias. The HPS pads don't seem too good to me either, but that is an obvious issue. My 240 does not stop nearly as well as the Subaru does. I think the best recorded 60-0 run on the 240 was 139ft with me downshifting to increase rear bias.

The 300zx seems like something that would definitely help, and I may give that a shot for now. Eventually I think the 300zx brake route is going to be the best option. There aren't many pads available for the Q45 calipers. I think the 300zx setup front and rear with the BMC and one of these proportioning valves is going to be my best bet.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/category/Tilton_Brake_Proportioning_Valve2

Discuss.

[Longfellow]

I have Q45 front, stock rears, SS lines on all 4 and hawk HPS pads with random Dot 4 fluid and SPL style air defectors. 235/255 - 17 RT615's and my car stops pretty well. Went up to deals gap and never had an issue with fading (2-3 runs back and forth at a time). There is some front bias but lock up is only if I stomp hard under 30ish. When I drop the tire pressure it seems to stop a bit better. I also have too much camber up front for street driving (-3) so that also sucks in florida.

[Cory]

The deflectors should definitely help with thermal management in the braking system.

[sr20goofus]

Front:
Z32 brakes
Brembo Blank rotors
ATS Super Blue Fluid
Cobalt XR2 Pads
2" Brake ducts

Rear:
Z32 brakes
Brembo Blank rotors
ATS Super Blue Fluid
Cobalt XR3 Pads

Very agressive braking, as long as you get them up to temperature, not cheap pads, very inexpensive rotors. Only suggested for track use, I have been usign this setup for quite some time and still in need of utilizing it completely.

[2Fass240us]

Are you planning on doing any RR events? At your power level, you are going to need some beastly brakes.

[highoctane]

Daily s14:
1-1/16 z mbc, ots valvoline fluid
F: Z32 brakes, brembo blank, stainless line, metal master ultimate
R: stock brakes, brembo blank, stainless line, some performance autozone pads

It's very front bias, it might be due to the pad compound along with the stock rear? But I found that I kinda like it for when I run in a very tight and short autocrossing configuration. I can rotate the car a lot easier, since I don't have anything else on the car is that adjustable.

In the work s14:
1-1/16" z mbc, ots valvoline fluid; full z brakes all around, brembo blank, stainless line, hawk hp plus pads all around.

I don't have that much miles on this setup yet since there's still issues that I need to work out. But for the few miles that I've driven it on street, I found that the brakes is more bias and aggressive. The initial bite is a lot better.

[Cory]

If you read that link I posted, I believe that you will be seriously rear biased with the Z setup and the Z MBC.

We are supposed to have a road course opening up here. Unfortunatley, I think the price is going to be ridiculous. The price of track days will determine whether or not I participate. If not, I will stick to local track days which are a happy medium between autox and RR. Highest speed I saw last time was 90mph or so. Mind you, I don't do track days making 500whp+. I usually run them on 14psi, pump gas, which is about 350whp.

[McCoy]

If you read that link I posted, I believe that you will be seriously rear biased with the Z setup and the Z MBC.

With the full Z32 setup (hawk blue race pads F/R) and the stock S13 BMC, my S13 was slightly rear biased on track. Threshold braking on track was ok as long as you DID heel/toe on your downshifts and didn't hit any major bumps in your braking zones... if not welcome to rear lockup.

I went to the Z33 rotor/Z32 caliper up front and made no other changes and the braking bias seems to be better now, I can threshold brake without fear of locking up a rear tire now on track.

[ecugrad]

I lock up my rears CONSTANTLY with the Z32 f/r setup with Z32 BMC.

I am actually downgrading BMC's to see if that helps.

[racepar1]

calipers: stock fr and r
master cylinder: stock 7/8"
lines: technafit braided steel
fluid: motul rbf 600
pads: endless sss
cooling: 3" brake ducting

I have been running this set-up for a while now and have had no fade issues, even in 100* + weather. The 3" ducting really did the trick on killing brake fade. I am currently working on a 300zx brake upgrade with 26mm front calipers and updating my brake duct design. I think people are a little over eager to upgrade their brakes to the biggest ones they can find when really the stock brakes with good pads and fluid is all 99% of them need. The only reason I even decided to upgrade my brakes is because I came up on the majority of the parts for sooo cheap that it was a no brainer and the 26mm fronts are more than enough.

[highoctane]

Z brakes is already on the front of the car when I got it so might as well complete the job. If it is going to have too much back bias, I might try some easier brake compound to compensate, or downgrading mbc as ecugrad have mentioned. Hopefully everything is going to be okay.

[ecugrad]

calipers: stock fr and r
master cylinder: stock 7/8"
lines: technafit braided steel
fluid: motul rbf 600
pads: endless sss
cooling: 3" brake ducting

I have been running this set-up for a while now and have had no fade issues, even in 100* + weather. The 3" ducting really did the trick on killing brake fade. I am currently working on a 300zx brake upgrade with 26mm front calipers and updating my brake duct design. I think people are a little over eager to upgrade their brakes to the biggest ones they can find when really the stock brakes with good pads and fluid is all 99% of them need. The only reason I even decided to upgrade my brakes is because I came up on the majority of the parts for sooo cheap that it was a no brainer and the 26mm fronts are more than enough.

Tires?

[2Fass240us]

pads: endless sss

As best as I can find, those pads are $250/set. If this is the case, it's even more justification for what I'm doing.

[McCoy]

As best as I can find, those pads are $250/set. If this is the case, it's even more justification for what I'm doing.

I like my $85 hawk blue pads

[Epstein]

Z33 Brembo fronts on stock Brembo/Nissan rotors with Nissan pads.
STi Brembo rears on chinese Z32 rotors with Subaru pads.
17/16" Z32 master
Crap DOT 3 fluid

I'm not sure if I like it yet. The pedal requires a firm foot if you're going to achieve threshold/lock. I guess you could say that makes them easy to modulate. We'll see what happens when I put some grabbier pads in there. I really couldn't tell you what a great brake setup feels like, but it's definitely not mushy. Very direct. I can actually feel the split point working in the master. I'll fill it with good fluid and real pads if I ever take it out. I went big after a friend with a T28/SR went to Sebring and couldn't make 2 complete laps without getting heavy fade on a full Z32 setup. Plus it looks baller. I'm not above that!