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  • clutch recommendations

    I sent racepar1 with this sort of message but he hasn't gotten back to me...

    What clutch kit would you guys recommend? Stock KA with some boltons more or less like racepar1... street/track compromise... as ill abuse it on track... but ill still street it...

    Also how much do the spec 11lbs flywheels go for? thoughts? racepar1 has one...

    I saw some threads on zilvia with cheap kits buuut i dont know.. and i showed my dad and he told me the pressure plates look like weaksauce... so he was like its garbage.. and i dont know much about pros cons to clutch kit designs. so I need some thoughts and suggestions... :-/

    I'm also sort of broke at the moment but ill take all things into consideration lol...
    "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

  • #2
    I've got a CFDF/Fidanza combo that has been in the car since 2003. It's seen a lot of abuse, and has killed two slave cylinders, but the clutch is still holding strong.

    My KA is NA that's putting 156hp to the wheels. Honestly, most of the KA clutches are capable of holding the power made from a turbo setup, so you really won't go wrong with any of them.

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    • #3
      Do the "white bunny special", there's also an updated version of this on KA-T.org.

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      • #4
        I was trying to look that up... it seems like a useful idea to increase the diameter up to 240mm with the d21 flywheel or 250mm with the rb20 flywheel... but i cant find more info... the d21 setup yes, but not the rb20 setup... as the d21 flywheel if im not mistaken is a few pounds heavier and only way for a lightened setup is a custom route.... so im trying to find more info on using rb20 flywheel linky? Im still searching... but i think that route will get expensive if i start getting lightened flywheel etc... so im not too sure if i wana go in that direction i doubt ill go above 160whp/160lbs-ft.

        It's nice to have a larger surface however... surely would help alleviate slippage woes... but i have no plans for higher power with the KA... this is temporary until i go LS next year (hopefully...)

        I was looking on ebay but... i need some advice haha... i dont wana waste money on **** that'll break on me or be unreliable or be undrivable except on track or only worth it for street and **** for track...

        How about this it comes with clutch kit and flywheel? I always worry about the swiss cheeze flywheels...... but if im not mistaken it states and looks like a chromoly not aluminum flywheel... What's your opinion on the rest?

        http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XTD-S...spagenameZWDVW

        Also difference between stage 2 and 3 is only the disc, the pressure plate and flywheel are the same...

        The stage 2 is regular disc and 3 is 6 puck... Difference is 10 bux...

        Opinions Basically I want it streetable and trackable and to take abuse, not big power goals... and i dont want it to be burned out from abuse haha...
        Last edited by a_ahmed; 08-20-2008, 05:46 AM.
        "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

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        • #5
          I would just get a near stock type, organic disc. If it slips from N/A KA power, you didn't break it in properly or you've got a propensity for burnouts. A lighter flywheel is nice for a KA car since it gives you a little more oomph in the lower gears around town, but you won't really notice on the track, other than being able to blip the throttle more easily.
          ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
          ~2016 M3, daily driver

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          • #6
            Just saw this thread

            http://zilvia.net/f/advertiser-speci...eady-ship.html

            The xtd chromoly flywheel looks worth it... the f1 one is chromoly too but swiss cheeze like and that worries me (yet same weight)....

            What do you think i should go for? How are these 6 puck discs like? Doesn't seem necessary but looks like something that wouldn't slip for hell.

            The full discs are stage 1 and stage 2. Stage 1 looks like plain ol organic and stage 2 is kevlar (sounds like a good bet no?)
            Last edited by a_ahmed; 08-20-2008, 06:19 AM.
            "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

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            • #7
              The XTD and F1 flywheels SCARE me are they SFI certified?

              Have you seen a flywheel blow up? It aint pretty.

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              • #8
                I can't find anything other than a twin plate that's light and has minimum 400lb/ft holding capacity..... need to drop off weight wherever possible now :P

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                • #9
                  Updated White Bunny Special ----> http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic...ht=white+bunny

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                  • #10
                    Ace,

                    You wouldn't happen to know how much the 300ZX Exedy stage 2, 4 puck weighs would you? The model that I have has a thinner cerametallic clutch disk. I keep meaning to buy a good scale so I can weigh this stuff myself as I install.
                    http://www.exedyusa.com/race/06900B

                    I plan to use the Jun RB20 flywheel with a 350Z ACT clutch next go around. They have a 13.4lb model and a 12.5lb model. $423 for the 12.5lb model and $370 for the 13.4lb model at vivid racing.
                    http://www.junauto.co.jp/products/dr.../index.html?en
                    Cory B.

                    "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                    http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

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                    • #11
                      I ended up getting the cheap **** XTD stage 3. 11lbs flywheel and 6 puck cerametallic clutch. I'll make sure to drive a good 1000-1500km to break it in... Reason I did was that I read into it plus got a friend with one... the stage 2 is not even kevlar (according to people on rx7 forums and such I googled for a few many days seeking reviews). The stage 1 is not even worth mentioning.

                      Will see how it goes...

                      280$+shipping... can't beat the price for a full clutch kit and lightweight flywheel...
                      "hexa-dodecahedron-triple-threaded-super-eleventy-way-adjustment-spec" dampers. -Def

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                      • #12
                        I never really understood how breaking a clutch/flywheel in is any different than breaking in your brakes. I use pretty much the same method for my clutch/flywheel as I do for my brakes. I do like seven medium RPM/medium force slips without allowing the clutch to fully engage. In between each, I let the clutch spin disengaged for a few seconds, about the time it would take for me to accelerate to sixty MPH. Then I do three hard launches without letting the clutch fully engage. Same for sitting time. After the last, I let the clutch cool down disengaged for like a minute or so. Just the same theory behind putting the E brake on after you run the car hard on the track. Although, I doubt it would be that big of a deal considering the pressure plate meets the entire surface of a disk, unless you are on a puck disk. I probably wouldn't go too hard on an organic or kevlar disk due to the glazing effect.
                        Cory B.

                        "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                        http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

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                        • #13
                          ^^^ I've done a pair of HPDE events the day after putting my sentra together (new clutch/flywheel) a few years back... the car is still going today. I just didn't do any burn-outs...
                          -Monty

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                          • #14
                            ^Right. I think the important thing is just to prevent any "lockup" situations for your clutch, the same as you do for brakes.
                            Cory B.

                            "Driving a race car as fast as possible is all about maintaining the highest possible acceleration level in the appropriate direction."
                            http://www.youtube.com/user/nissanfanatic240

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              For a pucked clutch you just need to slip it hard a few times, let it cool for 10 mins or so, then slip it hard a few times(like let it out at a moderately slow pace from 2.5-3k RPM maybe 3 times). Let it cool without using it much, then park the car and let it cool. It'll be good to go after that.

                              For an organic clutch just drive it in a stop and go situation for a few hours and it's good. Slipping it hard before it meshes up will cause a ton of heat buildup and could glaze the clutch.
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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