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  • Trackday: Ideas on keeping bottom mount gasket from failing

    Well, as I expected, the bottom mount gasket on my manifold failed at the end of the track day. I fully expected this to happen, however, the manifold I have came with unknown studs. However, the ends of the studs were welded to the manifold, but not really sure what that accomplishes since the nuts themselves are what backs off.........

    Anyways. I tried to head off this issue by installing a S15 MLS gasket and Stage 8 locking nuts. Well, NONE of that worked and not only were the stage 8 nuts VERY difficult to fit in the T2 space (bottom mount EFR 6258), the damn things barely lasted the entirety of the day (one was able to be moved by hand at the end of the day and one of the other was completely missing). So essentially, stage 8 does not work for 3-4 20 min sessions (in addition, it was fairly warm today at 80 degrees ambient, so track temps were probably a bit more).

    I do know some people have tack the manifold and turbo together, and I may consider it, but wanted other (and ALL) options. I have come up with a few quick ideas

    1) (cheapest) - Upgrade to actual treated full race studs or inconel studes, nuts and use S15 locking taps

    2) In addition to above, also tack 2 or 4 sides of the turbo to manifold portion

    3) (most expensive) Just go top mount. In all honesty, I would love to do it, but to spend close to $1000 for a proper setup, not sure if it's worth it. Although, XSpower has come out with a SCH40 manifold with a twin Scroll T3 flange (can easily lop it off and weld on a T2 flange), this requires a fair bit of work (need to fab up downpipe and intercooler piping) but is probably the most reliable. However, now I need to also deal with cooking the booster, etc.

    What do yall think??

  • #2
    If you're staying bottom mount and don't want to weld, I'd look at M10 or 3/8" fasteners like Full Race sells. Then maybe stage 8 nuts for that size will last.

    My vote, hit the easy button and go to a top mount 7163.


    I wouldn't waste time on modifying a $500 crappy manifold. Not worth it IMO vs what a nice lifetime warranty manifold will run you (full race EFR T4 TS). They also have a T25 bottom mount for EFRs, but I'd just go T4 TS if I was paying for a manifold. Just do it once at that point.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      If I am going to plunk down the money, I am going top mount, and that's that! But that's a later case scenario if nothing else works. In all honesty, I do not want to stay bottom mount, but the cost is simply not worth it going top mount just yet

      I was also considering the M10 hardware (and just use inconel) and I saw you posted on what ixfx did on a T25. I am wondering if I have enough space to get this drilled and tapped?? I may even consider taking it to a machine shop and have them also mill the surface flat and not run a gasket. This option all in will be about $1-$200 and will probably last the life of the vehicle!

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      • #4
        I've run Nissan studs, nuts and lock plates. No issues over several track days. I might open the tabs up and check the nuts but everything looks good.

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        • #5
          Run no gaskets, get turbo and manifold faced.


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by RalliartRsX View Post
            If I am going to plunk down the money, I am going top mount, and that's that! But that's a later case scenario if nothing else works. In all honesty, I do not want to stay bottom mount, but the cost is simply not worth it going top mount just yet

            I was also considering the M10 hardware (and just use inconel) and I saw you posted on what ixfx did on a T25. I am wondering if I have enough space to get this drilled and tapped?? I may even consider taking it to a machine shop and have them also mill the surface flat and not run a gasket. This option all in will be about $1-$200 and will probably last the life of the vehicle!
            Just lap each surface on something flat like a piece of granite or large piece of glass with sand paper. Good enough for our purposes.

            I don't see why you couldn't drill and tap the manifold, it's just a question of does your turbine housing have enough space for the larger nuts. I know one of the T25 studs is really tight with M8 stuff (height wise) on the EFR.


            I wouldn't say M10 hardware is going to be the bulletproof solution either, but it'll help.


            BTW - do you have muffler hangers supporting things well?
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Downpipe and all is supported well (flex pipe and 2 hangers, inclusive of the one by the gearbox mount).

              I am about 90% of the way to just going m10 and inconel. It's the easiest and most effective solution outside of welding and going top mount.

              On a side note, it seems M8 inconel the Miata boys are using seem to be holding up. I do think the hardware I currently have is the issue, so that is the last 10% of choice if M10 simply does not fit

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              • #8
                So it may be slightly tight under the wastegate arm to drill out to M10......

                If this is the case, M8 inconel with milled manifold and turbo flange with no gasket is probably the second best option

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                • #9
                  Stock Nissan studs are inconel btw.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                  • #10
                    Yep in aware

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                    • #11
                      Just go stock Nissan studs and nuts with locking tabs, has worked well on track for lots of people, myself included.

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                      • #12
                        remove cat for track days? can't imagine the presence of one helping those studs/nuts/gasket.

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                        • #13
                          I don't want to admit it, but the cat is actually welded in..........

                          Either way Inconel components and machining the surfaces the flat are both going to happen!

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                          • #14
                            Stage 8 kit and new studs once a season works for me. The nuts can't back off if installed properly. Did the circle clips break and the tabs fall off? Did the tabs bend? How did they fail?

                            I re read your first post. It sounds like you may have installed them backwards. If the tab was still present, it should be against part of the turbo that would not allow the nut to loosen without removing the tab. I'm surprised one of the clips just fell off. Are you sure you had it secured properly?

                            I don't run a gasket, I just use copper RTV between the manifold and turbo.

                            I've had zero success with the stock locking tabs. The nuts can vibrate loose pretty easily. Yes my down pipe is supported to the trans. Exhaust is using hangers.
                            Last edited by eye-5; 04-20-2015, 12:55 PM.
                            Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                            TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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                            • #15
                              I've had 3 of these POS gaskets go on me. Flimsy piece of junk gaskets just blow out.

                              Running tabs helps a ton, but they still seem to go out.

                              Like I'd have better luck folding a piece of tin foil over a few times, punching a whole in it and stuffing it in. /halfsarcasm
                              97 Kouki SR 240

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