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Interest in engine mounts that move engine back?

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  • Interest in engine mounts that move engine back?

    I was looking under my car, and was noticing that there's quite a bit of space to move the engine back before hitting the front subframe. And even that could be extended quite a bit by cutting the front of the front subframe off and running a weld bead down the center.

    It seems like 3/4" would be a good amount that would need almost no front subframe modification, and would allow an ABS driveshaft to be used (with a non-ABS rear diff). Then you'd just need something to get the trans crossmember bolted back up(simple plate with studs and a new hole or so in the crossmember? don't think it'd be exceedingly difficult).


    The mounts would use the readily available rubber CJ7 mounts that are <$5/ea. They're plenty stiff enough, but don't transmit much vibration.

    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/an...jeep/model/cj7

    The goal would also be to slightly drop the engine, but not very excessively (maybe 4-5 mm).

    End goal would be better frt/rear weight distribution without too much modification (or maybe another version that moved things back like 1.5" or so that required some more mods), and a slightly lower front CG. Given that's one of the bigger negatives our cars face, it seems like a fairly large improvement depending on how much on the car needs to change.


    Thoughts? Interest?
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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  • #2
    I would be tempted when I put a built engine and new turbo in since inter cooler piping would need to be redone anyway.

    Are you measuring available space at the firewall with the VE solenoid relocation bracket in mind too? I'm still undecided on whether I go that route or just clean up the red top head and throw some S4HL cams in.

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    • #3
      It wouldn't be that terrible difficult to do, just time consuming. The F/R weight bias improvement that you would get from moving an SR with a transmission back 3/4" would be pretty minimal. A year or so ago I calculated the F/R weight bias of moving my V8 back an inch. On paper it wasn't worth it. If my memory serves me correctly it would have taken me around around 6" to get 1/2% improvement. At 6" the reconfiguration of pedal and steering assemblies complicate things.

      Crank through the numbers and see what you come up with.

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      • #4
        Given the small amount of change possible, I don't see it being worth it only to move things a fraction of a percent..
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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        • #5
          A full up SR and trans weighs around 480 lbs I think with turbo? Moving that back 3/4" would give you a 0.2% change in weight distribution assuming it moved from the front axle (as its CG location), and a total vehicle weight of 2500 lbs and frt/rr distribution of 53/47.

          So 1.5" would give you a 0.4% change.

          It's not going to give you a 40/60 weight distribution or anything, but we're talking about a cost of <$150 if you're doing other things at the same time.


          6" to get half a percent on a heavy V8 hanging out there sounds really really wrong. I'd recheck your maths. Just calculate the moment about the rear axle, find the change by moving a component, then resolve for new CG distance from rear axle. That's your new weight distribution.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            Why not just buy the excessive lowering mount brackets for.... ~the same cost, and drill a hole further back by 3/4" ?

            Edit, scratch that they're only $80, and I guess they're tapered on the motor mount side so drilling an extra hole is hard to do.
            '95 240sx

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Sleepy_Steve View Post
              Why not just buy the excessive lowering mount brackets for.... ~the same cost, and drill a hole further back by 3/4" ?

              Edit, scratch that they're only $80, and I guess they're tapered on the motor mount side so drilling an extra hole is hard to do.
              Those are for a KA only right? I use a real engine.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Def View Post
                Those are for a KA only right? I use a real engine.
                Yeah, me too

                I guess the brackets aren't interchangeable but the mounts are?
                '95 240sx

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                • #9
                  I'd be up for a ka prototype. That would help the shifter for my RB tranny line up perfectly.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Sleepy_Steve View Post
                    Yeah, me too

                    I guess the brackets aren't interchangeable but the mounts are?
                    I don't think the brackets are interchangeable from what I remember of them. Mounts are the same on all S-chassis stock engines (CA/SR/KA).

                    Originally posted by Longfellow View Post
                    I'd be up for a ka prototype. That would help the shifter for my RB tranny line up perfectly.
                    They replace the mounts themselves, not the bracket. So the same design will work if you're using stock or aftermarket replacement S-chassis mounts for the engine bracket to front subframe connection.

                    They're basically going to be like JGS Rubber mounts but with the engine lowered and moved back.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • #11
                      Don't forget the added cost of shortening the drive shaft during this process.

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                      • #12
                        Well if one is looking at a 1 pc driveshaft, you can then get an abs shaft and use a non-abs diff and move it back 3/4".

                        I'll definitely make a 3/4" version, maybe a 1.25-1.5" version that would take a custom shaft. Depends on the room.



                        As for Ve solenoid plates, I haven't test fit anything, but there's a lot of room behind the head with the engine in the stock location. I definitely don't see a problem with 3/4" back, probably not for 1.25-1.5" back.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • #13
                          Driveshaft problem doesn't apply to me yet as I have yet to purchase one. lol Are We talking rubber or polyurethane..? I actually had JGS semi solid mounts (urethane) on my old car and hated them. Way too stiff!

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                          • #14
                            Rubber, see original post to link of actual mounts. They're cheap as hell too, so you can replace them often with no worries.
                            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                            • #15
                              Completely missed that... lol Look pretty good to me! this is also going to push my exhaust back 3/4 inch... hmmm I might have to check and see what downpipe clearance is like on franken KA first.

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