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Write/tutorial: Installation of EFR 6258 on SR20DET

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  • Write/tutorial: Installation of EFR 6258 on SR20DET

    This is a write up which goes somewhat in depth on MY PERSONAL installation woes of the Borg Warner EFR 6258 on a SR20DET 180SX Blacktop.

    As everyone knows, there has been lots of talk about how the EFR fits the stock location (read: bottom mount) SR20DET. Also, as all know, this really is not a true bolt on affair as one of the main issues is that, depending on how you clock the turbo, the CRV (Compressor Recirculation Valve or the EFR integrated BOV), there is some interference with the block water fitting (see picture for reference for fitment with a stock manifold). Also, among other things, the EFR is a half Marmom V-Band outlet on the exhaust side (which in some cases is also referred to as a narrow V-Band).

    To Note: The setup I bought was used; the manifold was modified prior to my purchase in order to tackle some of the issues. However, several more issues are still present for installation and actually arose from trying to allow the manifold to not interfere with the block water fitting.

    So in summation, below are the fitment issues typically associated with using a 6258 EFR on a stock location manifold
    1. Interference of the CRV or the integrated BOV with the block water fitting
    2. Half Marmom V-Band outlet
    3. Flanged compressor inlet/outlet as compared to a 2bolt compressor inlet/3 bolt compressor outlet

    I will present the steps taken during the installation process (but to sum it up before we go any further, this is simply NOT a bolt on process! Unless you present some fab skills, IMHO, you are better off just going top mount, or a bottom mount GT2871R or equivalent if you want to stick to a bottom mount setup)

    1) Manifold to Turbo installation/Fitment with water fitting on block

    Parts: Ichiba V2 SS manifold. Cut and welded to fit
    Issue: So right through the gates, the manifold I purchased was already modified in order to allow the compressor to sit at a location which does not interfere with the block coolant fitting.

    Solution: What was done was the flange was sliced off from the runners, then welded back on at 10-15 degree angle away from the block, in order to clear the water fitting.
    The pictures below show the comparison between a Tomei/GT28R (S15 turbo) and the Ichiba V2 Manifold which was modified by rotating the flange 10-15 degrees AWAY from the block
    However, please note: A much easier solution could simply be had by running a S14 water neck (or drilling/tapping your S13 water neck and capping the line behind the head) as it has the correct fitting for the stock coolant lines (which can be used with the EFR, but I am sure people will go with aftermarket SS lines), and you could simply run a block off bolt/plate/whatever you wish.

    Comparison between EFR w/ modified manifold to Tomei w GT28R:

    Below you can see the difference in angle between the Tomei and the V2

    2) Manifold to Turbo installation/Fitment with block and engine mounts

    Parts: Ichiba V2 SS manifold. Cut and welded to fit, NISMO engine mounts
    Issue: So right through the gates, the manifold I purchased was already modified in order to allow the compressor to sit at a location which does not interfere with the block coolant fitting. However, this also now posed another issue: The physical size of the compressor housing. Now, considering the much much larger size of the compressor housing as compared to the GT28R, there will be interference between the compressor housing and the engine mounts and/or engine mount brackets (snow ball effect is already taking shape……………)

    Solution: What was done was simply to take a grinder out with a cutting wheel and just begin clearancing BOTH the engine mount and engine mount bracket. Below are pictures which show what I had to do in order to allow the compressor and manifold to not interfere with any engine component. New Engine Mounts will be sourced (Drift Freaks mounts)

    The beginning measure up (sorry, no pics of the interference )

    The finished clearancing (the mount has since been repainted high temp Satin black, so not to worry about rust)

    3) Manifold to Turbo installation/Fitment with block an Oil Drain

    Parts: Ichiba V2 SS manifold. Cut and welded to fit, Turbo, Oil Drain
    Issue: When I purchased this turbo, it had a 14x1.5 to -10AN straight fitting. From this fitting, it went to a straight BARB 3/8” (I think) fitting. Here is the issue: the fact that the fitting was straight down and the fitting at the block for the oil drain is angled, you would have to find a proper rubber heater hose with the correct bend in order to have the drain hose work correctly and not kink. I ended up trying to use the GT28R metal 2 bolt oil drain. However, the compressor cover interferes with the Oil drain tube before you get a change to bolt it to the port.

    Solution: I was reluctant to buy any more pieces to get the turbo on, and decided to use what I had. The EFR was a 2 bolt 14x1.5 Oil drain port to bolt up to most Oil drain setups (think Garrett 2 bolt of the GT series, GT28R, T25, etc). I decided to give the 2 bolt oil drain from the GT28R a shot as I had it here and wanted to make it work. As mentioned earlier, the drain tube interfered with the compressor housing. I decided to grab Steel stock which measured a little over 3.2mm thick and fabbed up a spacer. The tubing now, JUST barely fit after the installation of the spacer. I used the 2 bolt EFR gasket as my template.

    Pictures of the Spacer

    Pictures of just how tight the clearance is (could have used a thicker piece of metal. But really did not want to make ANOTHER trip to Home Depot! This installation was already taking 5 times longer than anticipated and my patience was running thin!)

    .............PART 2 Below!!!

  • #2
    4) Turbo Fitment and Compressor Inlet/Outlet

    Parts: EFR turbo, 2.5” Silicone Tubing
    Issue: As compared to the Garret series (the ones that bolt up to the SR), the EFR comes with a flanged/machined compressor inlet/outlet. That means the stock adapters won’t fit (unless you want to chop them up………)

    Solution: I was reluctant to buy any more pieces to get the turbo on, and decided to use what I had. I simply grabbed a 2.5” 180 degree silicone coupler I had, chopped it in half at the middle of the 180 degree bend, and installed it on the compressor inlet. However, it was still too long, and the inlet was a bit too close for comfort, to the power steering pump/line. I just simply kept slicing more and more off until it fit as I would like .
    You can do a few things for the compressor outlet. 1) Just grab the proper 2” to whatever piping size you have on there currently (45 degree reducer coupler) and 2) Do what I did and just cut up some 90 degree aluminum piping, add in a few couplers, and make your own outlet pipe. This is a temp fix as I wait for the coupler to arrive ($28 dollars for a few inches of silicone coupler is ridiculous!! That’s what you get when you have to procure a scarcely made part……………….)

    Below is the comparison pictures of the difference betweem the OEM outlet and just a regular ol' hacked up Silicone coupler (the coupler has since been trimmed a few more mm since this picture was taken)

    Below is a picture of the clearance of the inlet pipe to the Power Steering Pump and the associated line and bango bolt.

    5) Coolant Fittings

    Parts: EFR and Coolant lines that were received with the turbo
    Issue: Simply put: the turbo lines I received just simply were not going to work! No matter how I routed the lines, they were either
    1) Too close to the manifold
    2) Too long
    3) Wrong angle
    4) Just simply did not damn fit!
    This was hands down, one of my BIGGEST issue which could have been remedied by simply taking a step back, and figuring out in full, what else I would need to get this installed. Basically, my original game plan was not sufficient enough to account for fitment issues of lines (which I never thought would have been an issue!!!). It took me literally 2 days to try and fit these lines, as I had to remove the turbo on several occasions. I finally decided to hack up my current lines to make it work...........

    Simply put. My dumbass mistake! I have decided to order a few new AN fittings (which mind you, were worse, IMHO, that just using good ol bango bolts!).
    1) I capped off my coolant line behind the block with a 5/16" to 1/8" Male fitting and a 1/8" NPT cap. Hasn't leaked yet......
    2) I drilled and tapped my Upper Water neck for a 3/8" NPT to a -6 AN line (the -6AN lines came with the kit)
    3) I will be getting a 90 degree swivel fitting, routing it between the turbo and Manifold.

    Solution: Make my own damn lines and NOT have it routed as seen in the pics!

    Behind the block Coolant cap

    Upper Water Neck Location for Tap

    Horrendous fitment of block Coolant line for the turbo

    Line fitment (NOT FINAL!!!)

    6) Turbo Fitment and Exhuast

    Parts: Custom 3” V Band exhaust
    Issue: As compared to the Garret series (the ones that bolt up to the SR), the EFR comes with a 3” Half Marmon Turbine outlet. This means, no T2 stock replacement turbo is going to work on this unless you do some fab work .

    Solution: I was lucky enough to receive a downpipe with my purchase, so all I have to do is mount it up, take it to the shop to have them cut and fit the downpipe correctly, and I am good to go. You will have to figure out what you prefer to do. Below is a picture of the manifold itself.

    Conclusion: Was it worth it?? I will reserve my judgment until I drive it and to see if it was worth such a big headache to get it installed!!! However If you do not have the means, time or skills, it is simply not worth it from a simplicity standpoint (or simply, if you do not have the $$$$ to get the full bolt up Full Race setup). Also, although you do not have to worry about an external gate and a BOV, the costs rise exponentially when you have factor in fab work, time to fab, tools, supplies, etc. The only reason I did it was because I had it, wanted to make it work, and just decided I am going to make it work!

    In addition, although the turbo "physically" fits as a bottom mount, in all honesty, a bottom mount turbo is one of the biggest hassles with anything bigger than a GT28R. The tight confines, and small spaces have made this probably the LAST time I go bottom mount!
    However, I will be looking to keep this turbo and go Top Mount in the future!

    If anyone has a top mount manifold, let me know (NO LOGS)!!!

    Good Day!
    Last edited by RalliartRsX; 10-19-2014, 10:04 PM.


    • #3
      Thanks a ton for doing this write-up.

      Probably sealing the deal for all of us who are casually eye-balling EFRs to go top mount haha.


      • #4
        FWIW, you can go -4 AN on the coolant lines to gain a bit more space. Offers plenty of coolant flow.

        But yea, EFR bottom mount does look a little tight with the B-1 frame turbos. No way a B-2 frame will fit.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


        • #5
          Def, the only reason I went with -6 is because I already had the lines made up and didn't feel like making another set. However, that would be the recommended way to go in all honesty!

          It's just too much of a tight fit, regardless. I may pick up a 90 degree -6 and a banjo fitting to see how either fits. It seems the banjo head may be an issue.

          Either way, a new line will have to be made up or may have to chop up the line and add new fittings (be is -4 or -6). Just tired of spending the dough at this point and going through fittings only to have one thing or another be an issue


          • #6
            I ended up using a hydraulic line with banjo fittings crimped on either end for my install, this cleared the compressor housing on the block with no issues. I tried a banjo to -6 fitting but this didn't clear. I'm also using a Full Race manifold though.

            I'd like to add that I had no problems clearing the engine mount, but the clearance to my stock ABS unit was VERY tight (RHD, S13 ABS).


            • #7
              UPDATE: New Coolant Line Routing

              So, as mentioned earlier, the coolant line routing can be.........difficult, to say the least

              With this in mind, I drew up a quick diagram, took some measurements, clocked the housing a few degrees and made a decision. Below is the final product.

              NOTE: Again, the only reason I was having such difficulties with just how I wanted to run the lines, was simply because I already had these lines. I really was trying to avoid spending money unnecessarily by making new lines. If I knew this was going to be so difficult to begin with, I would have made my own lines with Banjo fittings and smaller lines!!!

              They say pictures are worth a thousand words, so without further delay, below are the pictures. Also, you can see what I did for the vacuum lines from the compressor to the bypass valve.

              Let me know you folks opinion on routing, issue that may arise, etc. I am hoping to the get the downpipe finished in the net few days if the first drive goes well (unfortuantely, that won't be for several days since the weather is not conducive to any sort of testing Grrrrrrrrrr!!)

              Turbo Coolant Feed routing:

              Block (14x1.5) --> -6 AN (straight adapter) --> - 6 AN, 90 degree, male to female adapter --> - 6 AN 90 degree hose end --> - 6 AN hose --> - 6 AN 90 degree hose end --> -6 AN (straight adapter) --> turbo (14x1.5)

              Turbo Coolant Exit Routing:

              Turbo (14x1.5) --> -6 AN (straight adapter) --> - 6 AN 90 degree hose end --> - 6 AN hose --> - 6 AN 90 degree hose end --> -6 AN (straight adapter) --> 3/8 NPT on coolant outlet pipe


              • #8
                Update: Operation

                So, I took datalogs of the S15 turbo prior to removal. I took data logs of several stages, including

                1) 1st to 4th gear pull
                2) 20-50-80% part throttle pull in 3rd gear
                3) 3rd to 4th full throttle shift

                I took logs of the EFR as well (not as extensive, but I do have a full throttle 3rd to 4th shift and a full throttle to redline pull)

                Hands down, the transient response of this EFR is NO JOKE! Makes about 30+ WHP at about 1 psi more boost, but that does not tell the full story. Between shifts, there is no "re-spooling" of the turbo and it is truly a N/A style tip in! I have never felt anything like it (but to be fair, I have no experience with the GTX series, so no direct comparison).

                Once I shake out the data logs and sort out the Virtual Dyno Sheets, I will post a new thread.


                • #9
                  So rad!

                  Congrats on project completion.


                  • #10
                    In all honesty, with all the "integrated" items (BPV and Wastegate), this is a very good investment. The issues of "fitment" will easily be solved and this install would have been done in a Saturday in all honesty if I just went with a top mount. I am still a little "peeved" by the installation of a bottom mount and fitment issues (entirely my fault and should have stuck with my top mount game plan..........hindsight is 20/20).

                    The key however is simple: Go top mount and NEVER look back. The day of top mount being a lag monster have long since been gone and been gone for almost a decade now. The EFR just takes it to a new level! For a solid 400WHP, the smallest (6258 as I have) will do great! Step it up to a B1 frame twin scroll 7163, have a solid 500WHP, the superior transient response and the minimal lag of a T2 frame turbo.

                    The 7163 will be my net setup once I rid myself of this bottom mount. This is more of a getting my feet wet type of deal and loving it!!!

                    P.S The ricer in me is still getting used to the BPV lol!
                    Last edited by RalliartRsX; 10-28-2014, 10:02 PM.