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S13 200sx Autocross Newbie guide to built

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  • S13 200sx Autocross Newbie guide to built

    Hello. Sorry for the stupid questions) I have a s13 200sx. I want to try to drive autocross. Give simple, inexpensive improvements. I'm a newbie and do not want to heavily modifying the car.
    To begin, what to do with the suspension? I removed the interior elements and my car went up, I do not want to buy coilovers. Tell me whether it is possible to change the spring and leave it at that? What to do with the antiroll bars?
    I want to put the other wheels. I choose between Stock R33 gtr and Super Advan Racing r17? Please give advice.I want to go to the 5 lugs and put the brakes on the z32 or gtr r33. Is that good?
    Also, there are questions on the engine. I had a ca18det but he died. At the moment I have 2Jz-gte in the garage. For circuit racing use it not to turn out due to poor weight distribution. Right? I have read on this forum that a lot of rb in the s chassis? It is a paradox? Why not JZ? If the problem is serious weight distribution I want to buy from the s15 sr20det and ride the stock configuration. Is this normal?
    Once again I am sorry but I am a novice in this matter)

  • #2
    You can autox the car as is. Doesn't matter what engine if you're just doing it for fun, but our 4 bangers can make lots of power.

    I would just get a set of cheap coilovers vs. the horrible "lowering spring" selection that's available for our cars. But better still, put some decent dampers on the car like Konis/Bilsteins.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!

    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!


    • #3
      Thanks for the quick reply. Are you sure you put the 2jz is it good? Did I understand correctly that deliver decent struts with coil springs better than other cheap coilovers?I used to karting but I do not understand anything in touring cars((


      • #4
        Why develop new arms? To move the bearings? When calculating suspension, it is measured or is ready drawings?


        • #5
          You said you don't want to "heavily modify" but then talk about swapping a 6-cyl Toyota motor in??

          If you've never done it before, then go through the car and replace worn out and safety items: ball joints, tie rods, bushings, fluids, etc.

          Think about where you want to take the car before you start modifying it. If you want a fun daily driver that you can autocross in a stock class, your changes will be a lot different than if you think you want to ultimately build a dedicated unlimited race car.

          Why don't you want coilovers?


          • #6
            Currently, the machine does not have the motor. I have only a body and a bolt rollcage in it. As well, I already have 2jz gte. If i move to sr20det it will still need to buy. The machine I have LHD and RHD sr20det. Therefore, it is equivalent to swap 2jz gte.

            Ok, thanks)

            I would like to know what you want to pay attention to the initial preparation of the circle / autox race car.

            Coilovers are a great choice but I get lost in them. And as they are expensive (kw clubsport). Tell me what is better to buy?


            • #7
              I would look at the rules for the class you want to compete in and build to that.

              My class (SM) in SCCA Solo is pretty open. However there are a ton of details to consider in order to be legal for the class.

              For example, I can have any engine as long as the make is the same as the chassis. So I can have any Nissan engine, as long as it fits without modifying any of the structure such as firewall, cross member, bumper supports, tunnel. Etc... I also have to have full interior except for the rear seat. I can have a weld in roll bar but if it is a cage it has to be bolt in. Mainly due to no chassis bracing or stiffening allowed in class.

              I hope that makes sense.
              Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688
              TSSCC SM # 688


              • #8
                Competition in my country have similar regulations with the exception of your restrictions on volume of the engine. I'm talking about scca sm solo.


                • #9
                  well then from what info has been provided yo can't put that 2JZ waste of good iron into the car anyway right?
                  I am SKULLWORKS


                  • #10
                    Bad weight distribution, right?


                    • #11
                      well yes there is that too,

                      SM SOLO, per the above post requires an engine from the same manufacturer as the chassis. 2JZ is not nissan.
                      I am SKULLWORKS


                      • #12
                        If you are building a car to class rules, you need to understand the rules. You might be better off asking another driver who competes at your events for help with what you can do in your chosen class.

                        Step 1 is figuring out whether your 2jz engine is going to be allowed in the class you want to be in.


                        • #13
                          I learned classes in the rules. In my competition allowed swap. But the volume of the engine must not be more than 2.5 liters. Ie. Rules do not allow me to put jz.

                          Good. I'll look for s15 sr20det. Brakes from z32. Wheel from gtr r33. I realized that plays an important role adjustable suspension and coilovers. What may be possible for a small budget? Because a small budget. What's worth buying?


                          • #14
                            What is worth buying - this question is impossible to answer without knowing the options and the prices.

                            Where I live right now an RB25DET is cheaper than an SR20DET. But if a car is already wired for an SR and has a suitable intake, exhaust, etc., then an SR20DET might be cheaper. You need to price out all the parts and figure out the totals.

                            Bigger engines make more power, weigh more and bias weight distribution forward. Pretty much universally. I presently think cars with bigger engines are faster but harder to drive fast. Then you can start looking into running costs, i.e. the more power you have the more brakes you will need which means you will be going through pads/rotors more quickly and you might need bigger brakes to avoid brake fade.

                            Road race suspension situation for 240sx is - in my opinion - sad. The hot ticket is still Koni shocks from what I understand but you cannot buy a complete proven setup anywhere. You need to assemble the components yourself and strut housings besides costing money also can take a long time to get built.

                            To top it off I don't see 240sx winning in road racing at all.