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Issues installing S13 SR20DET Tranny. Advice??

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  • Issues installing S13 SR20DET Tranny. Advice??

    So I went ahead and pulled down my tranny to install new clutch and flywheel.

    Parts bought
    - NEW Clutch Masters FX400
    - New Clutch Masters 10 lb flywheel
    - NEW OEM Pilot Bushing
    - NEW OEM TOB

    So install pilot bearing, the flywheel, clutch disk and cover. Went ahead to to install tranny, and it simply will not spline in! No matter how I rotate it, it just will not go it.

    Things I have checked (I used a full bore transmission jack BTW)

    - Pilot Bushing fitment on input shaft
    - Clutch Disk splines fits onto input shaft
    - When slightly splined in, the output shaft/driveshaft turns when I turn the crank pulley

    What is happening (as I can see through the clutch arm hole) is is slightly splines in, but simply will not go all the way no matter how much I push, rotate tranny, pull engine mounts to lower rear or lowering the subframe cradle. It just simply will not spline in all the way and I have spent the better part of 8 hours over the course of 4 day and still nothing. I know people said it would be difficult, but from my understanding, once it slightly spines in, it should go right in. It also does not get close enough to start to thread in the bolts (I have tried somewhat with alignment bolts).

    I am at the point where I am going to drop it and tow it to my friends shop, but I was curious as to anyones thoughts or issues

    Thanks!

  • #2
    It's stopping at the dowels. Chamfer the dowel holes, hit the dowels with scotchbrite and grease them slightly.

    Then pull the trans on with 3 bolts, a quarter turn at a time while supporting it. They usually don't just push right on for whatever reason.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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    • #3
      Did you use a clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc with the pilot bush?

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      • #4
        Jacob, I am (literally) 2-4 mm from the dowel pins gaining the ability to engage the dowel pin holes. I cannot even get it to the dowel holes and this leads to only being able to get to one or two of the bolts (and they end up only being one side ). I think the top bolts (and the two lower) are the longest so I can possibly engage those. I will try to do 3 bolts at a quarter at a time tomorrow.


        Equinox, alignment tool was used for clutch installation, yes.

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        • #5
          If you're that far from the dowel pins, you're basically fouling on the input shaft into the bushing. I'd personally chamfer the pilot bushing and DOUBLE CHECK alignment. If your alignment tool is loose as hell it'll let the clutch sag down. I like to put a little upward pressure on the alignment tool handle while I torque things to center it better, plus make sure it's a really tight fit.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            Understood. I will probably re-install the clutch again to make sure. Alignment tool is tight but I never actually applied upward pressure. But it is most definitely feels like an issue of something just simply hitting something else, as the snout of the input shaft seems to be hitting something (when pulled apart again, there was a very small trace of brass I assume is from the bushing).

            I have 2 more, so I can install another and try again!

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            • #7
              Be sure not to peen in the bushing when you install it. Sometimes tranys fall in, sometimes they are a bear. Make sure the trans and the engine are parallel. I have had to put a trany in gear and turn a bit to get it in but never on one of these, you just never know.

              One thing to check is did you push the tob all the way on until it stops. I bought an sx one time that had the clutch slipping but the tob wasn't pushed n far enough.

              Jacking on the front of the engine gives you a better angle for the trany on these cars. I usually beat up the tunnel a bit for more room the next time also.

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              • #8
                logr, what do you mean by "not to peen in the bushing" on install?? I used a piece of wood and the old bushing to drive the bushing in and make sure it goes until it sits at the rear of the bushing housing.

                TOB is pushed all the way back as far as the lever arm will allow (not sitting on the pressure plate during install. Checked through feel and looking through the lever arm hole)

                Front of the engine was jacked up to line things up

                I took a hammer to the upper corners of the tunnel as I forsaw this reason when I was pulling it to begin with. Quite the bear for sure. Definitely share those sentiments!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by logr View Post
                  Jacking on the front of the engine gives you a better angle for the trany on these cars. I usually beat up the tunnel a bit for more room the next time also.
                  ^ This is the best tip I've ever received. Throw the stock scissor jack between the crank pulley and the sway bar and tighten it by hand. That will tilt the motor back until the head hits the firewall.
                  She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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                  • #10
                    I'm betting on the disc not being aligned well using the tool. Tighten the plate bolts until you can just barely wiggle the disc around using the tool. Walk it around a bit and find the center, this usually does require moving the disc up a little, hold it there and snug a bolt then snug the rest, then make sure the disc is perfectly aligned using the alignment tool, it should slide in and out easily, you should be able to get a pop noise if you pull it quickly. Then you'll know it's properly aligned.

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                    • #11
                      make sure the alignment tool is properly sized for the pilot bushing, too.

                      and I would recommend against using the bolts to pull the tranny on. if everything is lined up, and done gradually, it would work.

                      but more than one person has broken ears off of the bellhousing doing it this way.

                      I agree that it sounds like the clutch disc is not aligned with the pilot bushing.

                      A friend (on another car, so it might not work as well with these, although I believe they were the same type of clutch, hence why I will share) got a couple of bolts started and then pushed the clutch pedal enough to losen the disc and it self-aligned and slid right on.

                      ymmv

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jfryjfry View Post

                        and I would recommend against using the bolts to pull the tranny on. if everything is lined up, and done gradually, it would work.

                        but more than one person has broken ears off of the bellhousing doing it this way.

                        I agree that it sounds like the clutch disc is not aligned with the pilot bushing.

                        ymmv
                        Yep, I already lost about 1 - 2 threads on the lower hole due to trying to use a bolt to tighten things up.

                        So that is 3 for alignment then. Looks like the clutch is coming out again.

                        Will update when I get a chance to do it this week.

                        Thanks all

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                        • #13
                          Use the longer bolts in the shorter bolt positions to make sure you have plenty of thread engagement if you're going to use that to pull the trans up to the block.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                          • #14
                            Actually, what I ended up doing when I initially tried to use bolts to pull it in (and subsequently not realizing the tranny is simply not seated correctly) is buy longer 12x1.75 and 10x1.5 bolts and washers in order to pull it in

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                            • #15
                              The nose of the trans shaft probably has a sharp edge, which makes it necessary to have it perfectly lined up (very difficult) to go into the pilot bushing. It's getting hung up on the shoulder of the pilot bushing. I had the same problem on mine. Polish off the sharp edge and it'll be much easier to install the trans.
                              Last edited by 240sxTTC; 07-07-2014, 10:07 AM.
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