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  • IACV conversion

    I've been kicking around the idea of using a ka24de iacv in place of an s13 sr20det iacv.

    Long story short s13 iacv dead. Got a free brand new ka iacv. Running series 2 aem so I don't see issue controlling the valve.



    So if someone had a snap shots of this plugged up i can figure out how to make the conversion harness



    I know Light blue wire goes to the pwm aac motor
    Pin1
    pin2
    Pin3
    Pin4
    Last edited by konjiki7; 05-31-2014, 06:32 PM.
    Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

  • #2
    I don't think the valves are polarity sensitive. One valve is for ac idle up, and the other is the pwm idle speed control valve. Should be pretty straight forward to hook up.

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    • #3
      I would still at the very least need to see a snapshot of the iacv plugged up to see which wires go to the aac and FICD.
      Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

      Comment


      • #4
        Might be easier to just get a new SR IACV? They don't go for much.

        On the SR IACV the engineers thought it smart to put 2 red and 2 black wires with sleeving between the connector and the two valves.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Def View Post
          Might be easier to just get a new SR IACV? They don't go for much.

          On the SR IACV the engineers thought it smart to put 2 red and 2 black wires with sleeving between the connector and the two valves.
          I understand where you're going with this but it's a $120+ I can spend elsewhere.

          Plus I have a brand new ka iacv which is more then capable.

          I have plenty marine grade shrink tube and soldier.

          It would take minutes to build the harnesses if someone could trace the wires.( I would have done myself if hadn't rashly pitched the thing)

          Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
          Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

          Comment


          • #6
            Why do it at all? I have a Power FC and have the IACV discinnected.

            Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

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            • #7
              Short answer its not worth my time introducing gremlins into the tuning process. I will be dialing in all timing and most of the maps from scratch. So it's not a situation where i have a tuned car and are unplugging a sensor.

              Long answer

              I recommend leaving the IACV on. Getting timing dialed isn't happening with your idle jumping all over the place.

              I've run my car with the throttle body butterfly cracked open and it lets allows for a little bit of air to pass through. While a fully tuned car ran fine for the most part I did get some wonky behavior out of it under dynamic condition changes. (Which i traced back to IACV and plugged it back in...)

              So it can be done but since this is a weekend street and track car why wouldn't I want to run it?
              Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Def View Post
                Might be easier to just get a new SR IACV? They don't go for much.

                On the SR IACV the engineers thought it smart to put 2 red and 2 black wires with sleeving between the connector and the two valves.
                What I'm looking for is someone to gently tug the wires to the plug and tell me if the big cylinder has wires going to the top or bottom.

                If I get this I finish my build.
                Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

                Comment


                • #9
                  I reread the original post, and I'm not sure which valve you need info on. Don't you have both in your possession?
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Def View Post
                    I reread the original post, and I'm not sure which valve you need info on. Don't you have both in your possession?
                    I chucked the old valve thinking FSM would help or there was a write up done by someone swapping an SR.

                    All I need to know is where two wires live on the connector from either the primary (larger cylinder) or secondary (smaller cylinder) on the idle control unit.
                    Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      So you need info on the SR IACV. I should have time this weekend to pull out one of mine that I think I have laying around. Unfortunately the thing stupidly has 2 red and 2 black wires...
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Def View Post
                        So you need info on the SR IACV. I should have time this weekend to pull out one of mine that I think I have laying around. Unfortunately the thing stupidly has 2 red and 2 black wires...
                        That's correct. I believe the signals in hrz so polarity shouldn't mater.(much like boost controllers)

                        I appreciate you taking the time! This will be a huge help with wrapping things up.
                        Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                          I've been kicking around the idea of using a ka24de iacv in place of an s13 sr20det iacv.

                          Long story short s13 iacv dead. Got a free brand new ka iacv. Running series 2 aem so I don't see issue controlling the valve.



                          So if someone had a snap shots of this plugged up i can figure out how to make the conversion harness



                          I know Light blue wire goes to the pwm aac motor
                          Pin1
                          pin2
                          Pin3
                          Pin4
                          Pin 1 and 2 go to the hexagon fast idle valve in your pics above.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Bumping this up. I'm trying to get both solenoids working. I know one receives Hz as a signal, but I'm unsure of what one that is? Assuming the one stated above?

                            With that said, is the other supplied voltage and grounded by the ecu? I suppose my issue could be tune related, but once the car is up to op temp and shut down for 15-30mins it doesn't want to idle without some throttle input. This is mostly an issue when long sits in traffic occurs. The idle slowly drops to the point of stall and I'll have to rest my foot on the go fast pedal to keep it alive. I thought it may be related to some heat soak, but I'm not entirely positive at this point. Any insight?
                            VVL S14 on KW's...

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                            • #15
                              Have you opened up the air bypass bleed on the IACV? It's the phillips screw.

                              The big cylinder is the only thing you really need for idle air on a standalone. The other one is just constant on/off solenoid for a much higher idle on cold starts to aid in cat light off. I'm pretty sure it's just 12V, but it's rarely used as I understand it, just cold starts to get more headroom on the idle adjustment speed.

                              If you need a ton of duty cycle to the big solenoid to idle, then you need to open up the bypass screw to where your normal hot idle is using maybe 20-30% DC.
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                              Comment

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