Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Ring & Pinion Install Questions

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ring & Pinion Install Questions

    IIRC the R&P came off a R32 4.36.
    I've only received the ring, pinion gear and the pinion bearing still attached (hopefully the spacer that goes in between is still there)
    I don't have any tools to check backlash etc.

    My main question is changing out the 4.08 r&p from the s13 open and putting on the 4.36 with helical in, it should just bolt on and I'd just have to check backlash to install the correct shims right? Or would I have to take off the 4.08 bearing to put on the 4.36 like this guy.

    http://www.ls240sx.com/site.aspx?pag...20RP%20Install

    or spend $400 for a shop to do it.
    - Hong

  • #2
    It depends which bearing you have and if it matches the one in the case. There are 2 sizes that I know of and they are not even close. You will need to match the one that is in your case as one is a much larger diameter. Yes, when changing it all, it needs to be set up properly. When you tighten down the pinion, it will be too loose, too tight or just right. That part is pretty easy to feel. Usually, reusing the shims that came in your case, yields satisfactory results but it should be checked.

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by logr View Post
      It depends which bearing you have and if it matches the one in the case. There are 2 sizes that I know of and they are not even close. You will need to match the one that is in your case as one is a much larger diameter. Yes, when changing it all, it needs to be set up properly. When you tighten down the pinion, it will be too loose, too tight or just right. That part is pretty easy to feel. Usually, reusing the shims that came in your case, yields satisfactory results but it should be checked.
      Yup that is pretty much what I did. Keep everything in order and reassemble with the 4.36 using the 4.08 stuff. I kept all the shims in the same places, just put in a new bearing. double check the backlash and mine was within spec.

      Comment


      • #4
        Keep in mind the pinion height shim is different from the bearing preload shim. When changing cases it's likely you'll need to reshim your pinion height.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

        Comment


        • #5
          Pinion height shim

          The one that's sandwiched between the bearing and pinion?

          #8?

          - Hong

          Comment


          • #6
            Yep!

            The pinion bearing shim is 5 and 6. 5 is fixed, 6 is the thin shim stack.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

            Comment


            • #7
              I effed around with a diff rebuild for a VERY long time. You need to check backlash, breakaway torque, and pinion depth. I will get expensive if you need to buy new shims but the pinion depth should be straight forward... getting the shims for setting backlash was the major PITA which I bought probably 10 different shims for setting up that as it's not straightforward.

              Comment


              • #8
                Backlash is pretty easy once you get your carrier bearing preload. You just change the shims equal amounts to keep preload the same. You do need a lot of different shim siEs though.

                Pinion installed depth is actually the hardest part IMO if it's out. You have to pull the whole pinion out and take off all the bearings to get to that shim.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                Comment


                • #9
                  Ya, I replaced the pinion bearings because I'm an idiot and they were much different sizes, so I fawked around with that forever till I finally found a new diff instead and said screw effing around with the pinion bearing in that.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Sounds complicated, I guess I'll just save up until I have money to replace the R&P.

                    So if I was putting the helical into the s13 open all I'd have to do is put the ring on the helical and drop in with the correct spacing of shims on each side right?
                    - Hong

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What these guys are saying is the correct way BUT I have swapped many 4.3, 3.9 and 4.6's into stock housings and every time I used the original shims on the pinion. 95% of the time you can reuse the carrier shims just the way they came out and not have any issue.

                      It isn't the perfect, correct way but it most always works. How many miles are you going to put on this thing? I have put them in road race cars, autox cars and daily driver cars. Not a single one has had any issue yet. It's not like you will put another 200k miles on the car. You can bolt the thing in, make sure the bearings are close, not too tight, not too loose and run it. My bet is it will last longer than you keep the car.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I've gotten really lucky with Nissan stuff too. But I did get a shop to setup a 4.36 in a housing one time when I didn't have a press. They F'd it up horribly. Power drill sound when on throttle. Their excuse of refusing to refund my money was they "spent a lot of time on it."
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Much appreciated, thanks guys.
                          - Hong

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Ya, unfortunately I had pretty bad luck with mine; the pinion bearing got effed by me and I replaced it and the new bearing dimensions were definitely no where near close to the old bearing dimensions. Then the diff shims were way off as well. Numerous micrometer measurements, a dial gauge, magnetic base, and more shim purchases later, I got the thing finally set up.

                            But generally, it seems like I had some very bad luck. The second diff housing was smooth sailing.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by logr View Post
                              You can bolt the thing in, make sure the bearings are close, not too tight, not too loose and run it. My bet is it will last longer than you keep the car.

                              I've been saying this for years. Keep the stuff on there and send it home. When you see some of the destruction differentials can go through before people even realize they are broken, you begin to rethink and not worry about being .002 out on a stupid shim that we're all measuring with harbor freight calipers that aren't even that precise.

                              And the press stuff IMO is not needed either if you have half a brain. Good block of wood/brass punch, a good hammer, and a good way to hold the diff is all you need (such as a bench vise). A torch can help too (heat the case up where the bearing goes in) and even going as far as putting the bearing/pinion in the freezer overnight to contract it can really help too if you have the time and don't' have the tools.
                              'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                              [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                              [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X