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335/30/18 on 18x12 et +20 on my s13 coupe - cutting quarter panels?

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  • 335/30/18 on 18x12 et +20 on my s13 coupe - cutting quarter panels?

    I posted this on rrax, but want to get you guys' opinions as well...


    One of the cars in my sig is getting some new shoes:

    18x12 et+20 wrapped in 335/30/18

    Now this is a little outside the norm - even in the 240 community.


    Test fit in the rear went well:



    (285/30/18 vs 335/30/18)



    (This is already rolled and pulled.)



    (Inboard clearance is almost perfect.)



    (The 50mm overfenders look like they'll clear if I bow them slightly.)


    The ride height is 4.5" from the ground to the frame rails in the rear.

    Now here come the questions:

    I've seen that some people cut the outer arch higher and then cut slits in the inner fender and fold it out and weld it to the higher arch in the outer.

    My thought is to remove the springs and lower the car till it's almost on the frame rails in the rear, then that'll have the maximum amount of clearance to tire right?

    That'll determine how much to cut and where - because I want to take off as little material as possible.

    Could I just move the arch up 4.5" and keep the same radius?

    Next is fasteners.

    I know most everybody uses rivets.

    I've used hexhead hardware with success in the past, but is there another solution besides rivnuts?

    I kinda want to be able to drill through the panel and insert something that expands like an anchor on the back side - without having to go in on the back side if possible...

    Easy removability is my desire here.
    Last edited by Black R; 12-13-2013, 09:34 AM.
    1990 240sx - Aristo 2JZGTE, R154, GT37, Defsport Wilwood kit, KTS coilovers - daily driver
    1991 civic si - B18C5 / toda / ATS / hytech - autox
    2001 integra type R - Greddy td05-18g - garage queen

  • #2
    Tower240 learned me about nut plates that are a nut on a plate and the plate is riveted to the body. Won't spin like a rivnut and easy on/off as it's a nut.


    On my rear fenders, I cut the inner fender around the arch, hammered the two parts out then re welded the inner to the outer
    Last edited by jfryjfry; 12-12-2013, 02:59 PM.

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    • #3
      Why not ZG style flares? I think they look nicer than overfenders and may be a touch cheaper (maybe?), but I think you get a lot more clearance with the overfenders.

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      • #4
        You can use nutplates, or rivnuts (nutserts I've heard them called as well). The nut plates are easy to put two tack welds on the edges, and they're self locking so the fasteners will not come loose.

        They're only going to be available in UNF thread (so 10-32, 1/4-28 etc.).
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          Thank you guys for the nutplates idea.

          Beej, I already have rear overs and also some mild rear quarter damage that would require a bit of bondo anyway so...

          Although the rocket bunny rear flares sure are tempting (expensive though, right)?
          1990 240sx - Aristo 2JZGTE, R154, GT37, Defsport Wilwood kit, KTS coilovers - daily driver
          1991 civic si - B18C5 / toda / ATS / hytech - autox
          2001 integra type R - Greddy td05-18g - garage queen

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          • #6
            Be careful with the in board clearance. The negative camber gain during bump, will tilt the top of the tire in, and it might contact the inner frame rail/chassis. My 18x12 +20 315mm combo rubs slightly under bump.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Black R View Post
              Thank you guys for the nutplates idea.

              Beej, I already have rear overs and also some mild rear quarter damage that would require a bit of bondo anyway so...

              Although the rocket bunny rear flares sure are tempting (expensive though, right)?
              Oh okay, fair enough. Rocket Bunny flares are like $7-800 iirc but for all four corners, whereas ZG style flares are quite a bit less I believe. I also can't imagine RB flares on a non-RB kit. Just too huge and gaudy by themselves, at least that's what I envision.

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              • #8
                I personally never understand going with all these huge tires on S chassis cars. As far as the rear goes, you have a few options, but all include cutting the quarter panels. I doubt a fender flair would work for this car, its definitely over fender territory. Your over fenders look like they should work just fine. I personally would cut the arch up and then use new metal to weld the inner and outer areas together. I never did like the hack job look that people do with making a million pie cuts in the outer fender and bending it up. I'm personally doing mine similar to the way you would mini tub a drag car. I'll be cutting the outer quarter all the way up to the body line, and welding in a new inner tub to connect the inner and outer quarters.

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                • #9
                  Yea, I'd double check clearance under lots of bump. Nothing sucks more than to actually drive your car hard and hear the tire protesting as its ground away on the body.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by TKR View Post
                    I personally never understand going with all these huge tires on S chassis cars. As far as the rear goes, you have a few options, but all include cutting the quarter panels. I doubt a fender flair would work for this car, its definitely over fender territory. Your over fenders look like they should work just fine. I personally would cut the arch up and then use new metal to weld the inner and outer areas together. I never did like the hack job look that people do with making a million pie cuts in the outer fender and bending it up. I'm personally doing mine similar to the way you would mini tub a drag car. I'll be cutting the outer quarter all the way up to the body line, and welding in a new inner tub to connect the inner and outer quarters.

                    Thanks.

                    Someone on rrax suggested doing a trailer fender for the donor metal.

                    How thick is the oe sheetmetal anyway?

                    I guess the way I'm thinking about it is for all around max grip - so if I want to swap to 315 Hoosiers or a 27" drag tire, then I'll have the clearance.
                    1990 240sx - Aristo 2JZGTE, R154, GT37, Defsport Wilwood kit, KTS coilovers - daily driver
                    1991 civic si - B18C5 / toda / ATS / hytech - autox
                    2001 integra type R - Greddy td05-18g - garage queen

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jason M View Post
                      Be careful with the in board clearance. The negative camber gain during bump, will tilt the top of the tire in, and it might contact the inner frame rail/chassis. My 18x12 +20 315mm combo rubs slightly under bump.
                      Same for my 18x10.5 +15 with 315 rears, inside sidewall slightly rubbed the inner fender under heavy bump.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Black R View Post
                        Thanks.

                        Someone on rrax suggested doing a trailer fender for the donor metal.

                        How thick is the oe sheetmetal anyway?

                        I guess the way I'm thinking about it is for all around max grip - so if I want to swap to 315 Hoosiers or a 27" drag tire, then I'll have the clearance.
                        I wouldn't personally use a trailer fender as a donor. They are pretty hefty and not really needed. I'm just using some 16 gauge steal I got from a local metal supply shop. If you cut the outer arch first, you can use it to bend and form the new metal.

                        Below is how one guy I know did his. His are done a little rough for my liking, but none the less its better than that pie cut and fold garbage.



                        Those are Falken RT615 315/30/R18 BTW.

                        My plan is similar, but I plan on bringing the metal from the arch out so that it rests against the backside of the over fender.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by TKR View Post
                          I wouldn't personally use a trailer fender as a donor. They are pretty hefty and not really needed. I'm just using some 16 gauge steal I got from a local metal supply shop. If you cut the outer arch first, you can use it to bend and form the new metal.
                          Well, you can get a few different gauges all the way down to 22g iirc. And the nice thing is that their shape is about perfect if you want it to be rather sightly. Good pics though; I need to make some clearance on my POS as well and this give me some idears.

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                          • #14
                            Didn't realize you could get them that thin. Last ones I bought were for my tandem axle trailer and they were pretty thick.

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                            • #15
                              Ya, when I tubbed my front, like an idiot, there was down to 22g and up to 16g. Perhaps not many stores carry the 22g though? IDK...

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