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  • Fabricated drop spindles?

    Really starting to wonder why no one makes their own spindles. I've been toying with the idea of making a set of spindles that use Z33 hubs front and rear, though mostly the front since it'd be a bolt-on hub and require a lot less/ simpler machine work.

    For the engineers and fabricators on the board, any thoughts on 1/4" steel doubled up at the hub and gussetted vs. 3/8" or 1/2" plates for the "body"?

    Also, I can't think of any reason to angle the outer LCA bearings as is done on the stock setup (other than potentially utilizing some of the component angle to account for swaybar loads?). If they're designed right the LCA will be pretty much level, so the ball joint likely won't need to angle up much, if at all (not like the upper pillowball mounts need any angle). This should make fabrication a bit easier (though not by much).

    For the rears, I wasn't even going to bother with bushing or bearing housings, and just build a fork mount so I can run rod-ends at both ends of my upper arms and lower shock mount. Again, should make fabrication much simpler/easier.

    Anyways, just wanted to start up the discussion on this, since all I really need to do is reduce the amount of ackerman up front, and the only hesitation I have on getting Driftworks spindles is that I'd be hacking them up before even installing, which seems like a waste.

  • #2
    Did you discount the GKTECH spindles? You could just get a new steering arm made, or a bunch, to change stuff. 1/4" plate doesn't sound strong enough to me unless it had some serious reinforcement to increase its area moment of inertia.

    Look at the stock spindle thickness as a minimum amount.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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    • #3
      I would probably do some reasearch on the construction of the fabricated spindles all the circle track and mustang guys use. Seems like it was 1/4 box tubing on most of them last time I was paroozing for spindles.

      Speedway probably has alot to look at.

      Zack

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      • #4
        Steel rectangular tubing is A36 steel, which is basically ****iron with a yield of 36 ksi. It'd be better making it out of plate and welding it that had a higher yield, as you could directly reduce the weight, and stuff in the 50 ksi yield range isn't hard to find.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          http://www.griggsracing.com/article_...articles_id=15

          Adapt and conquer.
          Originally posted by SoSideways
          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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          • #6
            ^^ secks

            Looks very GKtech-ish.

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            • #7
              hah - if you're going to make something with machined aluminum bits, there's no way you'll beat GKTech's pricing on it. His stuff at retail costs less than what it'd cost to get the thing made in the US in decent quantity.
              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Def View Post
                Did you discount the GKTECH spindles? You could just get a new steering arm made, or a bunch, to change stuff. 1/4" plate doesn't sound strong enough to me unless it had some serious reinforcement to increase its area moment of inertia.

                Look at the stock spindle thickness as a minimum amount.
                I was thinking of doubling up the plate at the hub to make it 1/2" thick where it bolts up, with the sheets welded together right around where the gussets would locate on the back plate.

                I looked at the GKTech spindles but they're costly and seem as though they'd take longer to get than the DW spindles (which I can get front and rear). Guess I should take into account the potential weight savings, plus the fact that they're already setup for ABS sensors (as DW knuckles aren't).

                I suppose if I wanted to be cheap I could just do the drifter thing and cut and re-weld the stock spindle, but for the most part I figured a custom fabricated spindle could be done for the same price as an "off-the-shelf" unit, but with all the things I'd want, namely:

                - Relocate the upper strut mounts to allow a higher offset front wheel (instead of extending the strut ears). You'd have a bit more room to relocate, gusset, and basically get better/ stronger geometry.
                - Use newer, potentially easier to source wheel bearings. 350z front hubs can be found pretty cheap, and they're designed/suited for a larger car.

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                • #9
                  I've been toying around with the idea of using circle track parts for a front spindle for a while now... Bolt on steel or aluminum steering arms, wilwood aluminum hubs & bearings along with bolt on snouts or modified cirlce track spindles.

                  Using the z33 front hub assembly would end up wieghing a bit more then the wilwood 6061 hub assembly, when factoring in the fact that rotor brackets bolt right to the hub so you don't need a rotor hat. That said, bolting a Z33 hub to a 1" 7075 plate, with a bolt on steel strut attatchment would be pretty cool.

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                  • #10
                    I was going to make uprights around 370Z front hubs, as they're supposedly stronger.

                    There's a lot of fab work, as the spindle is loaded in bending across its whole length, so it needs to be stiff in that axis, but it's fairly long, so you need to be efficient with your usage of material. I personally would not make something like this without doing FEA on it when you're looking to make a fairly lightweight solution. If you do go through with it I can give you some advice on how to setup a basic FEA run to accurately simulate how the spindle is loaded.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Jason M View Post
                      I've been toying around with the idea of using circle track parts for a front spindle for a while now... Bolt on steel or aluminum steering arms, wilwood aluminum hubs & bearings along with bolt on snouts or modified cirlce track spindles.

                      Using the z33 front hub assembly would end up wieghing a bit more then the wilwood 6061 hub assembly, when factoring in the fact that rotor brackets bolt right to the hub so you don't need a rotor hat. That said, bolting a Z33 hub to a 1" 7075 plate, with a bolt on steel strut attatchment would be pretty cool.
                      Doesn't need to be 7075 really, you need rigidity, not necessarily a high yield strength. So you really end up with something much thicker than a 1" plate to get the stiffness in bending.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • #12
                        Check out the link ( http://www.wilwood.com/Hubs/HubProd....emno=270-10237) 3.2lbs vs 7lbs for the z33 bolt on hub. There is some added weight for the snout, but there are a few hollow bolt on snouts available.

                        The z33 hub is about the same price, but not having to pay for rotor hats would be nice. Rotor hats also usually add atleast 1-2lbs of unsprung weight.

                        I do question the strength & mainly the durability of a 6061 wheel hub, being highly stressed from 315mm hoosier A6's.

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                        • #13
                          Do those hubs include the bearings?

                          As far as including FEA for a fabricated spindle, I'd be more inclined to do so with an aluminum machined unit versus a steel fabricated one that's overbuilt. It wouldn't take much to make something stronger than stock at roughly the same weight.

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                          • #14
                            Actually this is more inline of what I was thinking of. I've seen this whole setup sell for $300 used on Ebay. http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...+and+2%22+Drop.

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                            • #15
                              Use your imagination, but here is an example of a weld on spindle snout that could utilize a wilwood hub assembly. http://www.kartek.com/Product/318/Ki...m-Spindle.aspx

                              Spindle snouts (offroad stuff...) http://www.kartek.com/Category/237/Spindle-Snouts.aspx

                              Here is what I'd probably use. http://www.kartek.com/Product/296/Co...dle-Spuds.aspx

                              or these... http://www.kartek.com/Product/298/St...dle-Spuds.aspx

                              along with these to make the spindle bolt on, for adjustments http://www.kartek.com/Product/307/St...ing-Plate.aspx
                              Last edited by Jason M; 09-21-2013, 08:44 PM.

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