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  • KA24 de ticking

    We have a ticking sound in out ka from 900 to 1700 rpm then it goes away. I have read that ks sometimes tick This engine has just been rebuilt new rod and mains new chain kit new oil pump the valves are adjusted. We are going to the Spokane chumpcar 36 hour race so I am concerned why its ticking. It seems to be coming from #2 exhaust valve.

    I live near Mt Tabor in SE Portland What I would hope for is there is someone that can come over and listen to this noise and give there thoughts. I can provide liquid refreshments and I have some fresh caught salmon you could take home.

  • #2
    You sure it's not the upper timing chain guide that's worthless and tends to have the chain slap against it?
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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    • #3
      Positive it is a s 13 head and that guide isn't used. I am getting another head and swap it out. It it still ticks I don't know what I am going to do.

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      • #4
        The upper and side guides are most assuredly present in s13 motors, though yours may have been removed already.

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        • #5
          No I am talking about the guide that goes between the cam gears on the top of the moter

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          • #6
            check the exhaust manifold gasket on the #2 cylinder... there are 4 individual ones... check the nuts, if tight pull the manifold, it will be obvious if thats ur ticking from the soot marks. hope that helps, and is easier than head change

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            • #7
              No nothing like that...cant be that easy.We pulled the head and pulled the valve springs for #2 and the valve guides are shot. I guess that can be added to the list of things that make KA engines go tic tictic.

              The head I bought the one that looked so clean it just came from the machine shop well its not as good as it looked

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              • #8
                update

                I changed the head with another that was known to be good and dont you know it still ticks. We took it to the Chumpcar 36 hour race in Spokane ticking and all It ran great. So I guess the ticking is no big deal. I DONT like it and would like it not to tick.Any thoughts?

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                • #9
                  Mine doesn't tick. buy my engine, but you have to take the whole car.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
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                  • #10
                    the KA24DE has the shim over bucket style shims. I have seen some that float around a little more than others. and that may cause a ticking noise as it comes up on the opening ramp...occasionally these parts get cupped and are no longer flat allowing them to rock, this could also cause the issue, so that maybe something you want to check, Possibly solutions to this are to upgrade to VQ style "lifters" they are one piece buckets without shims and need to be ordered to size or trimmed to length at assembly

                    All of this ofcourse assssumes you verified the "lash" first, as that would be a "obvious" cause if it is only from one cylinder or valve.
                    I am SKULLWORKS

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                    • #11
                      It's not the upper chain guide is it?

                      I'd say just keep flogging it. If it didn't blow up in the Chump car race it's probably good for another 100k
                      'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
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                      • #12
                        If the valve lash meets spec then check the cam chain tensioner. A weak or worn tensioner will allow the chain flop around especially at low engine speed.
                        Last edited by 240sxTTC; 08-01-2013, 11:46 AM.
                        NASA Time Trials TT3


                        BTW I work for Garrett

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Tower240sx View Post
                          the KA24DE has the shim over bucket style shims. I have seen some that float around a little more than others. and that may cause a ticking noise as it comes up on the opening ramp...occasionally these parts get cupped and are no longer flat allowing them to rock, this could also cause the issue, so that maybe something you want to check, Possibly solutions to this are to upgrade to VQ style "lifters" they are one piece buckets without shims and need to be ordered to size or trimmed to length at assembly

                          All of this ofcourse assssumes you verified the "lash" first, as that would be a "obvious" cause if it is only from one cylinder or valve.
                          Thanks ! Your post makes total sense I never thought shim float or shims being cupped

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