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  • Rear suspension setups

    What is everyone here running for their rear suspension arms/knuckle combo? Finally got my s14 subframe braced and fitted up into the s13. So it's time to tackle this question. Right now I have z32 knuckles with Def's sphericals that I want to install.

    Is it going to be worthwhile to make my own arms over just buying a set?
    My Blog | Unfriendly Garage | Endurance Motorsports

  • #2
    SPL in one car.

    BV on order for the other.

    z32 knuckles for both. Def bearings in one, stock rubber for the other.
    Last edited by e1_griego; 05-13-2013, 02:59 PM.

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    • #3
      My current plan:
      Braced OEM s14 RLCAs with new moog ball joints and megan racing hardened rubber bushings, but I am going to wait a little bit to see the final design on the GKtechs.

      SPL for the rest of the arms
      Z32 upright with Def sphericals plus SPL shock bearings
      A 22mm adjustable whiteline sway bar that I hope isn't too stiff
      S12 || N13 || S13 || B16

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      • #4
        I made my own arms, but also had the time and tools to do it. The cost was about $150 for camber, toe, torque arms, and $75 of that was the metric sphericals.

        Took me probably 6 hrs of time to cut, bend, and weld all of the parts.

        If I were going to do it again, I'd simply take a stock arm, cut the end off, put a 12mm spherical on it, and brace the rest of it. would take less time and save several pounds of unsprung weight.
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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        • #5
          Or you can run Chinaspeed arms with upgraded sphericals for about $175-190 and about 15 mins of time.

          My toe arm had a really nice orbital TIG weld with full penetration and nice threads. Who would have known you can even make that and ship it here for $45/pr.
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            I've had cheap "Motoria" style arms on my car for years with upgraded rod ends, and likely put more load on them than most. A couple weekends ago at the NJ Pro we were getting air over the undulations through the right side finish. I tore my sub-frame, but all the arms are still fine.

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            • #7
              I like the bv/spl option just because they're 5/8" rod ends. Seems like good metric rod ends are harder to find these days, and the aurora ones that stance use (for example) are like $45/ea.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Def View Post
                Or you can run Chinaspeed arms with upgraded sphericals for about $175-190 and about 15 mins of time.

                My toe arm had a really nice orbital TIG weld with full penetration and nice threads. Who would have known you can even make that and ship it here for $45/pr.
                if youll excuse my ignorance, what word replaces china in chinaspeed for the real product name?

                godspeed?

                do they use a metric or imperial rod end?
                Last edited by Dimitri; 05-13-2013, 08:20 PM.

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                • #9
                  Megan, godspeed, isis, motoria, whatever is cheap on ebay.

                  They generally use m16x2.0 rod ends.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                    I made my own arms, but also had the time and tools to do it. The cost was about $150 for camber, toe, torque arms, and $75 of that was the metric sphericals.

                    Took me probably 6 hrs of time to cut, bend, and weld all of the parts.

                    If I were going to do it again, I'd simply take a stock arm, cut the end off, put a 12mm spherical on it, and brace the rest of it. would take less time and save several pounds of unsprung weight.
                    Any pics of your arms?
                    My Blog | Unfriendly Garage | Endurance Motorsports

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                    • #11


                      Def, the quality control on the Chinaspeed arms leaves a LOT to be desired.
                      the interference fit on the inner bushings for the RLCAs I have is so bad that I can't even move the arm by hand once installed. each spherical has 30-40ft-lb of resistance.
                      The threaded portion of my front arms was so sloppy that I couldn't keep the jam nut seated due to the play between the bushing and the arm.
                      The quality control on those arms is absolutely atrocious. If you happen to get a good set, then you're lucky. every single piece of the front and rear sets I have is defective in some way or another.
                      Originally posted by SoSideways
                      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                      • #12
                        Any details on the components you used? And what are the specs on the tubing?
                        My Blog | Unfriendly Garage | Endurance Motorsports

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                        • #13
                          Funny, my SPL stuff is beautiful and works great to begin with. I guess you get what you pay for.

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                          • #14
                            My front Godspeed arms were meh quality, but not that bad once you replace the bits that move.

                            All my rear stuff was surprisingly nice. I could nitpick the mig welds in a few areas, but they're definitely structurally sound and don't look all that bad.
                            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by Def View Post
                              My front Godspeed arms were meh quality, but not that bad once you replace the bits that move.

                              All my rear stuff was surprisingly nice. I could nitpick the mig welds in a few areas, but they're definitely structurally sound and don't look all that bad.
                              This might send ghetto and I'm not fully sure, but couldn't you just grind down a lot of the bead then reweld over the now thin bead? Wouldn't that be a roundabout way of fixing any crap welds? Then obviously, the replacement bearings...

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