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T2 Turbo Gasket Replacement for S13 SR20DET

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  • T2 Turbo Gasket Replacement for S13 SR20DET

    My car sounds like a lawnmower now and it 's coming from the turbo. My guess is that the T2 gasket has blown out from my exhaust hitting. Prior to the now obvious exhaust leak I was wasn't really getting power out of my T25 until 4k RPM. I guessing this was the culprit.

    The car is a S14 with the S13 SR20DET. I'm guessing now would be a good time to install SS oil and coolant lines and to install the S14 water neck. Anything else?

    How hard is it to replace the T2 gasket without removing the exhaust manifold? I still have A/C and P/S. My concern is breaking studs.

    Tips and input would be appreciated. Thanks for the help.
    Last edited by sanbaifo; 03-14-2013, 02:19 PM.

  • #2
    You can't replace it without pulling the manifold.

    If you do the s14 water neck you have to close up the lines on the back of the head, just fyi.

    OEM gasket + copper lock nuts + new lock tabs and you should be fine. And make sure you're running the downpipe brace to the transmission mount hanger. That will keep the weight of the exhaust off the turbo and prolong the life of the t2.

    Def will be here shortly and show you that he welded his turbine to his manifold, but otherwise new hardware should keep you in business for a year or two, at least.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by e1_griego View Post
      You can't replace it without pulling the manifold.

      If you do the s14 water neck you have to close up the lines on the back of the head, just fyi.

      OEM gasket + copper lock nuts + new lock tabs and you should be fine. And make sure you're running the downpipe brace to the transmission mount hanger. That will keep the weight of the exhaust off the turbo and prolong the life of the t2.

      Def will be here shortly and show you that he welded his turbine to his manifold, but otherwise new hardware should keep you in business for a year or two, at least.
      hah


      Honestly, all OEM stuff lasted me a long long time. It wasn't until I actually got fast on track that it just wouldn't last more than a few events. Nothing changed on the car, but after replacing my 4th one and trying every high tech fastener known to man, I said screw it and took out the welder.

      For street cars and "mildly" driven track cars the OEM stuff works great though. Use new locking plates though.

      I'd highly recommend ditching the behind the block water line - thing is horrible and makes turbo changes way longer than they should.


      As for tips on getting it out, I left the turbo outlet on and just pulled everything out (mani, turbo, outlet) at the same time. If you're doing the water outlet thing, take that out first and you've got tons of room.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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      • #4
        BTW - I do get some enjoyment out of the fact that it creeps out Nissan guys so much that I welded my manifold and turbine housing together. Sometimes ya just gotta get it done if all the other options aren't working over and over...
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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        • #5
          Doesn't creep me out at all -- it's the end-game that most of us won't reach and I figured I'd cut to the chase.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by sanbaifo View Post
            My car sounds like a lawnmower now and it 's coming from the turbo. My guess is that the T2 gasket has blown out from my exhaust hitting. Prior to the now obvious exhaust leak I was wasn't really getting power out of my T25 until 4k RPM. I guessing this was the culprit.

            The car is a S14 with the S13 SR20DET. I'm guessing now would be a good time to install SS oil and coolant lines and to install the S14 water neck. Anything else?

            How hard is it to replace the T2 gasket without removing the exhaust manifold? I still have A/C and P/S. My concern is breaking studs.

            Tips and input would be appreciated. Thanks for the help.
            What kind of exhaust manifold do you have? cheap aftermarket stainless manifold often have un-flat T2 flange so that causes to blow the gasket all the time.

            Putting stock ex manifold is the best option and perhaps get external wastegate flange welded on if you bother to take them apart.

            And no, you have to take the manifold off to replace the gasket.

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            • #7
              Thanks for the info guys.

              I'm using the OEM manifold. I'll spray a lot of PB Blaster on the bolts before trying to remove it.

              So how much of a PIA is getting rid of the water lines under the intake manifold and switching to the S14 setup?
              Last edited by sanbaifo; 03-14-2013, 07:59 PM.

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              • #8
                The one water line that's different is the one that goes to a line behind the head.

                If you use an OEM S14 waterneck it's just bolting bits on and putting SS lines on (I'd highly recommend these). Or you can drill and tap the S13 waterneck and put an NPT to AN fitting there. You must cap the line behind the head either way.

                Premade SS lines are pretty cheap these days, so do those. Putting them on is easy compared to the stock hardlines.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                • #9
                  I would skip the all flex replacement lines, just drill & tap the stock water neck if you havent already bought an S14 one, then put a rubber hose between it and the turbo, leave the other two stock, big waste of money for no real gain.

                  As already said, unbolt the downpipe from the outlet elbow, remove the air intake setup and hotpipe, water neck and lines, then remove the manifold and turbo as one.

                  I'd suggest going ahead and buying the Mrgasket copper exhaust mani gasket, a copper turbo to manifold gasket is also available, and the new locking tabs with copper nuts work great as previously mentioned.

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                  • #10
                    I like the OEM S15 exhaust manifold gasket personally. Has a lot more give to it than a copper gasket to conform to the surfaces.


                    SS lines are worth it just due to how much easier it is to put the turbo back on and take it off in the future. Yea, it's a few bucks, but if it's a car you work on yourself it's totally worth it.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Def View Post
                      I like the OEM S15 exhaust manifold gasket personally. Has a lot more give to it than a copper gasket to conform to the surfaces.


                      SS lines are worth it just due to how much easier it is to put the turbo back on and take it off in the future. Yea, it's a few bucks, but if it's a car you work on yourself it's totally worth it.
                      With the annoying rear one replaced and connected to the neck i'd rather have the other two stock, if the braided are actually "easier" to install, youre doing it wrong with the stockers.

                      Im sure the 15 gasket works great as well, i just used the MrG and it worked great for me.

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                      • #12
                        The stock hard lines are actually much more difficult to line up correctly so you don't strip a bolt into that nice soft aluminum block. SS lines are worth it IMHO.
                        Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Z28ricer View Post
                          With the annoying rear one replaced and connected to the neck i'd rather have the other two stock, if the braided are actually "easier" to install, youre doing it wrong with the stockers.

                          Im sure the 15 gasket works great as well, i just used the MrG and it worked great for me.
                          I'm doing nothing wrong. With the hardlines you have the potential to have radial and angular misalingment. With SS lines it's just as easy as putting the line up to the fitting and threading it on with no force to overcome.


                          I'm not saying it takes me hours to install the hardlines, but they are not anywhere near as easy to install as AN SS lines - no where close.

                          I also don't like constantly threading a steel fastener in and out of a fine pitched threaded hole in aluminum. That's a recipe for disaster.
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                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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                          • #14
                            Make sure what cheap SS lines you are buying. I bought some from Nicklesport and they are all 3 the same size, AN4. The fitting hole for the water line is tiny. Not sure how much water really needs to go through there but it is 1/4 or smaller than stock.

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                            • #15
                              I use -4 an on the water lines. It's about the same size as stock. No idea why -6 became the accepted size there...
                              '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                              DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                              http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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