Solid engine mounts

[logr]

I was considering installing solid mounts on an autox/hillclimb only car but all the available ones I found have a bolt through the center. Have you ever really looked at the stock engine mounts? The are not a straight through in either direction and they are not the same, left and right.

It doesn't follow that the engine would bolt back in the normal spot or bolt in at all. Has anyone tried them?

I didn't take a chance. I made my own but what a pia. Allow lots of time if you do this if you are moving the engine around from the stock location.

Are solid mounts a good idea? I worry what the vibration will do but this car doesn't run long periods at a time so I wanted the solidness of solid mounts.

Thoughts?

[240sxTTC]

I'm not a huge fan of having both the trans and engine solid mounted. Need to have some damping. I have a solid mount for the trans. For the engine I have the Cusco lowers and Xcessive Mfg lowering upper mounts. The set up has worked well for yrs of track abuse.

[Def]

JGS mounts are freat. Rubber not poly.

[PerilousActs]

I've got JGS mounts in mine.

[logr]

I'm not a huge fan of having both the trans and engine solid mounted. Need to have some damping. I have a solid mount for the trans. For the engine I have the Cusco lowers and Xcessive Mfg lowering upper mounts. The set up has worked well for yrs of track abuse.

This surprises me as I have read numerous times that all mounts should be solid or none should be solid, which makes sense to me. It seems that the movement of the engine would break something if the trans mount can't move unless the engine moves very little.

[Tower240sx]

I put solid mounts in my car when i went VE, and by solid I mean solid Aluminum,

I simply tapped a 3/8-16 hole in the center of a 1.75" SQ bar of 6061-T651 and bolted this to the engine mounts,

After i dropped the motor in place and aligned it so that both pieces of AL were sitting square on the chassis mounts, i marked the bottoms with a sharpie then removed them and drilled and tapped a second 3/8-16 hole in the bottom of the "motor mount"

I have only about 4 track days and 50 dyno pulls on the setup and have no ill effects to report

[e1_griego]

The ultra poly mounts made all my clamps loosen up, fuel clamps come loose. Everything rattled. Haaaaated driving it.



+1 for rubber JGS. I recommend them to everyone.

[Preston]

I've been running Xcessives solid trans and engine for two years now, no issues nothing coming loose or falling off, just a LOT of noise and rattles. Cannot beat the response though, I love the immediate feel of power.

[Bubba]

Driftfreaq on zilvia made a good set of mounts in multiple runs. Maybe look his way? Allows for the engine to be moved also.

[e1_griego]

Having owned both, I like the JGS better.

[Def]

The nice thing about jgs rubbers is for $7-10 you can refresh the rubber mounts. It's some older Jeep design, so you can even pick them up at local part stores in a pinch. Mine were in great shape except for the fire part.... $7 later and they're brand new.

[e1_griego]

I just called Lance last week to get the part number for the poly.

Just for reference it's Energy Susp. 2.1102G. Mounts are from 1976-1986 Jeep CJ7.

[Def]

Good info. Yea, the rubber are just the stock mounts for the CJ7. Seem plenty durable, and don't offer much deflection due to the small size, while still taking out some vibration.

[turtl631]

Nice, that's good info. I'll grab a set too.

[sanbaifo]

Having owned both, I like the JGS better.

You like the JGS more than the Driftfreaq ones or solid?

The Drift Freaq ones are supposed to lower the engine a little and the bolt doesn't go all the way through which should prevent some of the vibration from being transferred. That's the direction I was headed but I do like the [NVH] properties of rubber over poly.