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Affordable Sr20det harmonic balancer???

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  • Affordable Sr20det harmonic balancer???

    After looking for something random to finish my engine build I came across these

    Sr20det 25% under-driven damper...

    Which is made by a company here in the US know as Powerbond which is used by a the local LS,LQ and LT engine builders.

    To my surprise they make a Harmonic damper for the Sr20det Part no: PBU1104-SS25

    These retail for $240-$315

    The local racers that use these rave about it being a well kept secret.

    After doing a little digging I found these are extremely popular in the Australian sr20det community.

    sooooo I called the mako group number below and found a local distributor and put in my order.

    http://powerbondparts.com/

    Mako Group
    1935 Tommy Webb Dr.
    Meridian, MS. 39307
    601-485-3355 phone
    601-485-3366 fax
    website:
    www.makogrp.com
    email to:
    [email protected]

    I order my balancer from Motorstate distributor since that was the closes place with it in stock to MD.

    Motor state distributors
    http://www.motorstate.com/
    269-463-4113 or 800-772-2678



    Hope this helps someone out in the future.

    ***Also change balancer to damper technical fumble as def so kindly pointed out ***
    Last edited by konjiki7; 12-19-2012, 02:16 PM.
    Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

  • #2
    Hate to nitpick, but its a damper, not a balancer. It also does not dampen anything but the panties of hard parkers.



    Any idea on the actual cost and weight?
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      I got mine shipped for $250 and its listed at 6lbs.

      Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
      Last edited by konjiki7; 12-19-2012, 02:29 PM.
      Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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      • #4
        I'm going to rock an aluminum one on mine. Seems safer than the 20 yr old original ones out there that have badly cracked rubber, waiting to separate.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Def View Post
          I'm going to rock an aluminum one on mine. Seems safer than the 20 yr old original ones out there that have badly cracked rubber, waiting to separate.
          I've had a UR one on my car for over 30.000 miles now. Couldn't tell ya if it's hurt anything but so far so good LOL~


          Seriously though, I understand the reasoning behind the dampers and all of that fancy smart guy engineering behind them,but my Altima had over 60k on UR pulley (that I put on at like 160k) and even survived turbocharging at 200k+. It may not be good, but I dont' think I've ever seen an engine wear out the bottom end from them yet...sure that may be the redneck way to look at it, but just from my personal experience...
          'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
          [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
          [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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          • #6
            Smarter folks than me will probably chime in, but the necessity of a piece like this is based on what kind of harmonics your engine config develops. If they're not within the usual RPM range, why bother? IIRC for a 4cyl crank the worrisome harmonics are at pretty high frequencies beyond what most reach.
            ~1992 240SX, SR20/Koni track day car
            ~2016 M3, daily driver

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            • #7
              And that's what I have read as well. Don't get me wrong though, I'm all about learning, but I can't see UR being in the aftermarket part world this long if their pullies were known to damage engines....you'd think in in forum land someone would have a mob out to destroy them if they were scattering bottom ends.
              'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
              [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
              [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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              • #8
                Google sr20det bearing failure. Since 2001 there's been tons of threads about this. Whether people considered all the factors is beyond me.

                Engineers and veteran engine builder's seem to think otherwise. All successful builders of our engines use them. Just something to consider. Maybe calling them and talking to them would be a good idea?

                I pointed this option out because price was always a deterrent for me. Now that I found a quality harmonic balancer that's similar in price to under drive crank pulley. Not much to think about when considering variables and benefits. There's also some articles about this to my last post.

                My last question is do you think rod vs stroke ratio on the sr is ideal for wear?

                Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                  Google sr20det bearing failure. Since 2001 there's been tons of threads about this. Whether people considered all the factors is beyond me.
                  SR"s have had rod bearing failures on bone stock engines, even with oil in them.

                  Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                  Engineers and veteran engine builder's seem to think otherwise. All successful builders of our engines use them. Just something to consider. Maybe calling them and talking to them would be a good idea?
                  And by all means I know there 'must' be a reason why guys run them, but in the same respect I don't understand how detremental not running one will be to a bottom end. Heck I know guys who have lost the whole damn pulley (don't ask haha) at Enduro's, find another junkyard one, and run the piss out of engines for seasons, and offseasons.

                  I'm certainly not trying to argue against them, just that it's always been something I've been curious too as I've not seen or heard of any particular examples where a crank pulley has been to blame for an engine ruining itself. Not saying it's not possible...I think we all know anything is possible with cars


                  Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                  I pointed this option out because price was always a deterrent for me. Now that I found a quality harmonic balancer that's similar in price to under drive crank pulley. Not much to think about when considering variables and benefits. There's also some articles about this to my last post.
                  I do like that it's price point is 200 less than the others for sure. It's something to consider for sure.

                  Originally posted by konjiki7 View Post
                  My last question is do you think rod vs stroke ratio on the sr is ideal for wear?
                  I'm by no means an expert here,simply regurgitating what I've read, but I've always been under the impression that a lower r/s ratio is not good for wear, but better for power (and vice versa)...as with most small rod setups you need to spin them higher to make power.

                  With that considered, there is also the factor of piston speed and rod length to that all as well (and all of the crazy stuff people have attempted at creating to make for 'better' setups at similar r/s ratios. Then you also fight the general concepts that a longer rod bends eaiser with higher torque setups, albiet you don't need to spin them as hard to make power...etc etc. Engine Dynamic stuff is way above my head on the nitty gritty, but the general concepts have always interested me.
                  'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
                  [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
                  [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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                  • #10
                    Ive had the powerbond on mine for awhile. So far so good, *knock on wood* Its heavy-ish like stock. I certainly wasnt about to shell out 450+ for a freakin ATI, gtfo. I honestly cant tell you about weight or power gains...i couldnt find a decent (non-cracked) stock replacement and it did the trick just fine.
                    97 Kouki SR 240

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                    • #11
                      I just got mine in the mail.

                      The gspec pulley weighs the least it out of the lot obviously.

                      The OEM pulley comes in second and the power bond is slightly heavier than the OEM pulley.

                      The scale at home only reads 50lb and up so no actual weights just yet.

                      It's SFI 18.1 race certified so I feel better bolting it up as it withheld to standards and engineered to meet them.

                      Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
                      Still Got a few part left! Shoot me a PM if you have questions!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5286

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