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S14 Solid Subframe Bushing Install Help

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  • S14 Solid Subframe Bushing Install Help

    I'm in the process of installing SPL solid subframe bushings in my S14 and I'm stuck. I got the subframe out, cut the bushings out and burned the excess rubber, and now at the point where I need to remove the cage/race/carrier sleeve. Somewhat conveniently, there is an install video on youtube, but they only show the last 2 or 3 swings with a hammer removing them. An old write up google found said to just pound them out. So that's what I tried. 30 minutes of hammering, and all I've done is bend the lip on the bottom. I was using a 3/8" round punch and 3lb mallet. I stopped out of frustration and it was getting a little late to be hammering in the driveway.

    So from all of you that have done this already, are there any secrets, tips or advice? Or, "just keep hammering."

  • #2
    I took a hacksaw and cut two grooves most of the way through the bushing-- about 1/2" apart. cut as far as you can before going through the bushing into the subframe.

    Then I use a cold chisel (i.e. junked flat head screwdriver), and pound that small strip out by peeling it inwards.
    Once that's done, the rest of the sleeve will compress and just slide out.
    Originally posted by SoSideways
    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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    • #3
      I just took a sawzall to them. Take care not to overshoot the race though...
      But I think it depends on the type of person you whether you should use my way or Matt's way.

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      • #4
        that's why I said hacksaw. too easy to FUBAR a subframe using a sawzall. AMHIK.
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
          that's why I said hacksaw. too easy to FUBAR a subframe using a sawzall. AMHIK.
          Well, I suppose some people couldn't handle it or just wouldn't check often enough to see progress (not ripping on you). I'm a pretty patient person plus I have a knack for being pretty precise with tools that are otherwise deemed too harsh for a certain job... However, in machining something, of course I wouldn't be using a grinder and free handing a drill, etc.

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          • #6
            Bah.. didn't you see The Fastest Indian? The guy used soup cans for piston moulds! plenty good enough!

            Umm yeah.. I've been known to whip out the chain saw when cutting wood just because it's faster than digging out the miter saw and extension cords..
            Originally posted by SoSideways
            I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
            '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
            '96 240SX- The Track Toy

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the hack saw idea...way too terrified to use something with a motor. The rears came out relatively easy. Had to hammer just at the right spot, but it worked. The fronts were a different story. I didn't realize at first there was multiple pieces to the fronts. So after I had smashed and mangled the inner sleeve, I realized it was a separate piece and then it came right out the top. I wasted way too many hammer swings. So 3 out of 4 done, I just need to figure out the right way to do the last one now that I know the wrong way.

              Would you guys recommend starting with the spacers at the stock subframe height and adjust from there? Or should I go straight for some roll center correction? My rear suspension is not well sorted at the moment (cheap coilovers, good camber and toe arms). It probably doesn't make much of difference where I start, but figured I would ask.

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              • #8
                If you're planning roll center correction for the front later, go ahead and do the rear now so you don't have to drop the subframe again.
                Originally posted by SoSideways
                I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you suck the subframe up all the way to the chassis, you may have some tight spots between your fuel tank and the upper exhaust mount. I left one spacer in on my S13, and am pretty happy with it, the rear feels very solid especially through a tight S-turn.

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                  • #10
                    Bushings are in and the awful clunking on shifting and braking is gone. Thank goodnes. I should have done this a long time ago.

                    For those doing this in the future, I recommend cutting a 1/2" strip out of the races. I only made 1 cut on the first 3, and they required much more hammer effort to remove. I did 2 cuts on the 4th to remove a strip, and they came right out with little effort. Hammering the strip out dislodged the inner sleeve. Cut the rest of the way through the outer race, a couple hits with a hammer and chisel, and it came right out. Then I ended up putting the bushings in upside down, so all the effort I didn't spend removing the 4th race was then spent pounding the busings back out and reinstalling. So don't do that.

                    For the spacers, I ended up doing 1 on top and 1 on the bottom. I don't know if it made a difference due to the amount of other things changed on the car, but SPL definitely makes quality stuff.

                    Thanks for your suggestions and help.

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