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  • Swaybar Advice

    Hey Guys,

    I am looking at upgrading my swaybars to a set of adjustable whiteline ones but unsure what size to get. I will at a later date be putting a rb into mine if that makes a difference?

    My choices are as follows:

    BNF19Z Front Sway bar - 27mm heavy duty blade adjustable


    BNR11Z Rear Sway bar - 20mm heavy duty blade adjustable
    BNR11XZ Rear Sway bar - 22mm X heavy duty blade adjustable
    BNR11XXZ Rear Sway bar - 24mm XX heavy duty blade adjustable MOTORSPORT

    The car will be street driven as well as track driven and most arms are all adjustable.

    Cheers
    Troy

  • #2
    Imo, small rear bar. I run a 27mm front and no rear bar to help keep the inside rear tire on the ground during cornering and exit. With the sus,tech sway bar set, it would lock up inside rear while trail braking, then spin inside rear on corner exit. Keep in mind I have a stiff suspension with short travel, stiff chassis (full cage), and hlsd.

    If you have a good diff, softer suspension, then you can run a rear sway bar but I would still go with a smaller one.
    Originally posted by SoSideways
    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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    • #3
      It's my opinion that you may want to hold off getting the bars until after the rb motor. Being that swaybars are used to balance the car, you may want to wait until the static weight of the car is at least near what you intend to get it to. Depending on which rb you go with their car be a siginifacant weight distribution change in the car.

      In the rear, depending on a ton of variables, you may have to run less bar in the rear just to keep some weight on the rear inside tire.

      I would be weary about buying bars until you drive the car with the rb, espically with a rb25 or larger.

      Comment


      • #4
        Good point. I forgot you were planning an engine swap. definitely save the sway bar choice for last.
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

        Comment


        • #5
          I used the run a 27 front with 22 rear -with 7kg front and 5kg rear- it would roll over on its rear and pick up the inside, looked cool but was slow.
          The 24 rear fixed that. I also drilled a 3rd hole for more rear adjustment and ran it on that stiffest setting. Car would tend to be a little loose on slow corner but on the faster stuff, just bordering on understeer. This was the best compromise i found with an RB25 up front.
          sigpic
          Australia: S13RB25DET{dead}.....VQ35 build in progress, R32 GTR 26/30, Mitsubishi Legnum VR4

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          • #6
            Although the body rolls less, doesn't a larger bar increase the unloading effect on the rear inside tire?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
              Imo, small rear bar. I run a 27mm front and no rear bar to help keep the inside rear tire on the ground during cornering and exit. With the sus,tech sway bar set, it would lock up inside rear while trail braking, then spin inside rear on corner exit. Keep in mind I have a stiff suspension with short travel, stiff chassis (full cage), and hlsd.

              If you have a good diff, softer suspension, then you can run a rear sway bar but I would still go with a smaller one.
              Hi Matt. What spring rate do you run on the rear?
              NASA Time Trials TT3


              BTW I work for Garrett

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              • #8
                8k frt, 6k rear ..
                (That's stiff for a street car or one with crap shocks like mine..)
                Originally posted by SoSideways
                I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                Comment


                • #9
                  What suspension are you running?

                  I'd just throw the big front on and keep the stock rear for now.
                  '89 RX-7 TurboII - SSM - Widebody - Ford 8.8 IRS - giant wing - Megasquirt3
                  '89 Corolla SR5 - SMF - 4A-GE 20 Valve 6 speed swap - Megasquirt-2
                  '01 Impreza 2.5RS - Rallycross Stock AWD / Daily
                  '81 BMW R65

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                    8k frt, 6k rear ..
                    (That's stiff for a street car or one with crap shocks like mine..)
                    Thanks Matt.

                    I'm running 650 (~12K) front and 500 (~9K) rear springs with a Whiteline 22mm rear bar at full stiff. I'm still getting inside wheel spin on slow right handers, which I think is caused by the big sway bar pulling up the inside rear tire. I tried no rear bar one session at Nationals last yr and the car felt floppy in the rear at turn-in....didn't like it. The next event in Aug I'm going to try 600 rear springs and run with the stock bar and no bar to see if it fixes the inside wheel spin. I still think I need a little more front spring rate but I don't want to change too much at one time.


                    Mushroom - my recommendation would also be the 27mm front and stock rear.
                    Last edited by 240sxTTC; 07-24-2012, 10:32 AM.
                    NASA Time Trials TT3


                    BTW I work for Garrett

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by 240sxTTC View Post
                      Thanks Matt.

                      I'm running 650 (~12K) front and 500 (~9K) rear springs with a Whiteline 22mm rear bar at full stiff. I'm still getting inside wheel spin on slow right handers, which I think is caused by the big sway bar pulling up the inside rear tire. I tried no rear bar one session at Nationals last yr and the car felt floppy in the rear at turn-in....didn't like it. The next event in Aug I'm going to try 600 rear springs and run with the stock bar and no bar to see if it fixes the inside wheel spin. I still think I need a little more front spring rate but I don't want to change too much at one time.


                      Mushroom - my recommendation would also be the 27mm front and stock rear.
                      Check out a 19 mm J30 rear bar. It's hollow, so it weighs about 1.5 lbs less than the stock 15 mm solid rear, and is quite a bit stiffer. Yet still a bit lighter than the heavy solid aftermarket rear bars.
                      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Def View Post
                        Check out a 19 mm J30 rear bar. It's hollow, so it weighs about 1.5 lbs less than the stock 15 mm solid rear, and is quite a bit stiffer. Yet still a bit lighter than the heavy solid aftermarket rear bars.
                        I actually want a rear bar with an effective spring rate of ~50lbs/in. I'm going to make provisions over the winter to run a speedway rear bar so I can make easy stiffness adjustments. It seems the best set up for the S13 to eliminate inside wheel spin and handle appropriately is stiff springs and small bar. The prob is I really like the handling now with the 500 rear springs and 22mm solid Whiteline bar at full stiff but the inside wheel spin is killing me. I doubt I can run no bar because in order to get the same stiffness I'd need to run crazy rear rates. I think the road surface compliance would go to crap. I'm going to try no bar with the 600 springs at the Aug event but I doubt it's going to be enough.

                        Has anyone calculated what the effective stiffness of the 22mm Whiteline rear bar would be on an S13 at full stiff? I'm guessing about 150-200lbs/in......just a guess.
                        Last edited by 240sxTTC; 07-25-2012, 07:50 AM.
                        NASA Time Trials TT3


                        BTW I work for Garrett

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                        • #13
                          Running with no rear bar does feel "sloppier" but it seems to always go faster for us (autocross). We're running a helical diff so lifting a wheel isn't an option.
                          Don Johnson (really!)
                          Just so you know.

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                          • #14
                            A stiffer front everything helped me on lifting a rear tire. I run no, stock or Stock S14 rear bar.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by logr View Post
                              A stiffer front everything helped me on lifting a rear tire. I run no, stock or Stock S14 rear bar.
                              This ultimately fixed my issues as well. Stiffer springs in the front. I now run a stock S14 rear bar on my S14 without issues on a helical diff.
                              Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
                              TSSCC SM # 688 http://www.tsscc.org

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