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  • My oil smells like Gasoline HELP!

    Hey Guys, So I spun a bearing at VIR last winter and had the motor rebuilt. I had just recently had my ecu reflashed by Jim Wolf Technologies for the mods that I have (stock s14 sr20det with intercooler, exhaust, intake).

    My mechanic told me that one of the reasons this happens is if your car is running too rich, extra gasoline that isnt burnt gets into the oil. This eventually decreases the oil's ability to lubricate and can cause engine failure.

    Well the freshly rebuilt motor is in and i drove it keeping the RPMs low for the first 500 miles then did an oil change. Sure enough- the oil definitely has a gasoline smell to it. The car also generally has a gasoline odor when it runs, but I cant find any leak.

    At this point it looks like I just need to get the car dyno tuned and get rid of the Jim Wolf tune. Has anyone else had this happen? Is there something else it could be?
    sigpic

  • #2
    You running a vented blow off valve? If so, there's your reason.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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    • #3
      Watch A/F while you're driving as well. typically JWT ECUs run around 12.5:1 on NA engines and 10.5:1 under boost from what I've heard. My Maxima's JWT ECU (non-turbo) is rock-steady at 12.5:1. If it's significantly off from that, then you might have a sensor or fuel pressure issue.

      But refer to Def's post first.
      Originally posted by SoSideways
      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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      • #4
        who's injectors are you running?

        Most doucheworks injectors leak so much on the seat that it turns oil to kerosene in short order.
        I am SKULLWORKS

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Tower240sx View Post
          who's injectors are you running?

          Most doucheworks injectors leak so much on the seat that it turns oil to kerosene in short order.
          Yea, those things dribble a ton. I bet they hit the injector solenoid with the drill bit on most of them.


          I tried to tune a car on doucheworks injs, and it would NOT hold a steady AFR for ****. Spent hours on the thing checking for problems. Finally asked him about the injectors - well there's your problem!!! The AFR would randomly go from 16:1 (intentionally lean) at idle, then randomly dip down to below 10:1 for brief periods, with some misfires, as I guess big drips of fuel made their way into a certain cylinder or two.

          Yea... no thanks on running lots of boost on that crap...
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6
            Deathworks man ! You can save $200-$300 !!!!

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            • #7
              and apply it to your next purchase...a new motor
              I am SKULLWORKS

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              • #8
                Hey guys,
                Yes I am running a vent to atmosphere BOV I will see what I can do about recirculating it to the intake pipe... Maybe that will fix things. I sure hope so... Also I am using stock injectors believe they are around 380cc. I just picked up the s15 spec r turbo and a set of s15 spec r injectors as well. They are used injectors and I was going to send them to daeschwerks to be cleaned and get new o-rings. After your comments should I not do this? Or are your comments geared toward the injectors they sell under their own name?
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  They do a decent job on the cleaning (it's pretty hard to screw that up), but I'm not sure it's really needed on a set of OEM injectors. I'd just put some money towards a few bottles of Redline fuel system cleaner.

                  A vented BOV is probably 90% of your problem easy. Compressor surge, where your BOV doesn't really open from say 2 psi going to -10 in-Hg is part of the problem as well.

                  That's why I recommend a bypass valve. I run an aluminum bosch style bypass valve from eBay - it did WONDERS for making my car drive better in changing partial throttle conditions.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Def View Post
                    That's why I recommend a bypass valve. I run an aluminum bosch style bypass valve from eBay - it did WONDERS for making my car drive better in changing partial throttle conditions.
                    What does the flange look like? Any Idea? Do you have a link to this? Very interested!

                    What I have currently is this:


                    so I should be able to run a hose from the 1.5" vent port to my intake pipe right? My question is what type of hose should I use for this??? I searched and looks like they dont really make hoses especially for this purpose that I can see... should I use a radiator hose? It has to be a long length because i have to run it over to the other side of the engine bay.
                    Last edited by snowmants; 04-27-2012, 07:13 AM.
                    sigpic

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                    • #11
                      Radiator hose will work fine. it'll handle 20+PSI all day long.
                      Originally posted by SoSideways
                      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                        Radiator hose will work fine. it'll handle 20+PSI all day long.
                        Ok cool. Looks like I will be making a run to the autoparts store tonight, rotating my intake filter pipe so the bung is accesible, and trying to get this thing recirculated! I will report back with the results.... Thanks guys!
                        sigpic

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                        • #13
                          Not sure how long its been since your injectors have been out of the rail, if ever, but the O rings can leak, allowing fuel to bypass the injector, and go right on in, first thing before touching anything you should remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold, prime the fuel pump and check for any leaks.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Z28ricer View Post
                            Not sure how long its been since your injectors have been out of the rail, if ever, but the O rings can leak, allowing fuel to bypass the injector, and go right on in, first thing before touching anything you should remove the fuel rail from the intake manifold, prime the fuel pump and check for any leaks.
                            Another great suggestion. Thanks so much. If the bypass does not do the trick I will do that next. I just got a set of new-to-me *used* s15 spec R injectors that are going in in the next month anyway.
                            sigpic

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                            • #15
                              Buy new o-rings for them- both for the rail and for the manifold. lube them before installation too.
                              I use Dow 111 o-ring lubricant on that stuff. a huge tube is like $4, and it's way better than anal-eze.
                              Originally posted by SoSideways
                              I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                              '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                              '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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