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Subframe bushings, grassroots style

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  • Subframe bushings, grassroots style

    Hello everyone, this is my first post, so might as well include a short intro. I recently picked up a beat up s14 very cheap, and I'm working on a extreme budget/grassroots build so please try not to take too much offense when some of the mods I mention seem (are) "ghetto". This is basically a track, drift, autoX car only.

    That being said, I'm trying to raise the rear subframe as high as possible to correct the suspension geometry and reduce the slop of the stock bushings.I've seen people machine down the ES bushings to mount the subframe directly against the unibody, but I'm slightly confused on what needs to be done on the bottom side of the bushings. If you remove material from the top, does it a spacer/collar on the bottom?

    Honestly, I'd like to grind down the metal sleeve on the stock bushings until they are flush with the "cups" that hold them. Then fill the bushings with construction adhesive poly. Will this eliminate the need for additional collars/spacers? I know that I may need to clearance the body some for the diff, and that the e-brake cables will need to be relocated slightly to clear the drive shaft.

    Thought? Opinions?

  • #2
    I had my machine guy (same one who makes my AC brackets)Cut the top, but leave a little material left (why I don't know, just seemed like a good idea). Then I had the middle metal sleave cut down and equal amount.



    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
    [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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    • #3
      With that said, moving things up all the way tight makes for some 'very close' clearence with some of the parts, and the E brake cables with everything.
      'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
      [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
      [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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      • #4
        Thanks for the replies, all that makes sense, I'm just confused about what needs to be done spacer wise (if anything) on the bottom side of the subframe. Ie: when you see subframe "risers", they go in from the bottom and have a pretty thick collar on them.

        Dont waste any time reading here, but the pics show the collar or step i'm talking about.
        http://zilvia.net/f/chat/352421-test...hey-legit.html

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        • #5
          Cody, I think we all know you didn't want to get too much NVH in that Cadillac of an S14. It's ok, you can admit that's why you left some urethane.



          As far as construction adhesive and stock bushings - Most S14s are going to have trashed stock bushings by now. Construction adhesive doesn't work well when the bushing moves all around (like a trashed stock subframe bushing).

          IMO, if you're going through the effort of dropping the subframe, just get the ES bushings and trim them down. (You just trim down the top part, whichever side that is).
          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
          http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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          • #6

            I chopped mine with a hack saw then finished them up with a sanding block. Turned out pretty good but took a while to make sure everything was flat.

            Cody did you have to widen the hole on the black cups pictured above or use washers to space the nuts down? The subframe studs taper and the washers can only go so far.... also the studs look like they might run out of threads...
            Last edited by marcinko; 02-19-2012, 03:42 AM.

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            • #7
              I had done the same thing Cody did but used them in my s13, I used all the original hardware with out any spacers on the bottom.

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              • #8
                If you want to do super budget and have access to a welder just go all circle track on it.

                Remove the bushings, get some metal, weld it to the top and bottom of the to cover up the hole left buy the bushing removal, drill appropriate sized hole, and rock.

                Cost - ~$1 in metal.

                NVH included for no extra charge.
                The Nerd shall inherit the podium for knowledge is power.

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                • #9
                  That's how I saw it done on a world challenge S14 chassis locally.
                  Originally posted by SoSideways
                  I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                  '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                  '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                  • #10
                    Yea I've seen that too. I'd worry about long term fatigue from the stress risers, and the greater potential for a bending moment to be put on the studs. That said, they're very oversized for our size car... but.... It wouldn't be a place I'd want to risk something breaking...
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • #11
                      Solid sub frame bushings are something I was wondering about as they seem popular with the drift crowd.

                      Aside from NVH increases, what are the pros and cons of solid sub frame bushings? Are most people on NRR running urethane ones?
                      Simplify, then add lightness.

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                      • #12
                        I'm running solids. Solids vs. urethane probably aren't going to take out a ton of movement, but that' generally what you're trading, subframe movement for more NVH.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • #13
                          heh.. I just realized said solid subframe was in a car that is now pink and likes to climb mountains.
                          Originally posted by SoSideways
                          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                          • #14
                            Cheapest way to fix subframe for no movement is to weld a small spacer on each side of the bushings on the top side. Grind the rubber/metal down to give room for the spacer to be flush with the top of the subframe and weld in a small piece of flat stock on each side. It never moves again and you raise the subframe at the same time.

                            I have done this several times for the drifter crowd. It is illegal for SM though if you care.

                            Yes, I do know some drifters but I don't usually admit to it. Please don't tell anyone.

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by logr View Post
                              Cheapest way to fix subframe for no movement is to weld a small spacer on each side of the bushings on the top side. Grind the rubber/metal down to give room for the spacer to be flush with the top of the subframe and weld in a small piece of flat stock on each side. It never moves again and you raise the subframe at the same time.

                              I have done this several times for the drifter crowd. It is illegal for SM though if you care.

                              Yes, I do know some drifters but I don't usually admit to it. Please don't tell anyone.
                              Thanks, any pictures? If, I'm understanding you correctly, you leave the stock rubber bushing in place, grind down the rubber flat with the subframe, then weld pieces of metal (or maybe a whole disc, like a huge washer) to fix the center sleeve of the bushing to the subframe, then shorten the sleeve to be flush with the added material.

                              Sounds like a good option since it should eliminate the stress risers Def was talking about caused by just capping off the the top and bottom and drilling a hole.

                              I didn't realize it would be illegal for SM, wouldn't that mean the shaving the ES bushings would also be illegal since it technically moves the suspension mounting points? I'm not too worried about it anyway, I just autox to compete with my friends, learn car control and have fun.

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