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? about S13 multilink bushings

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  • ? about S13 multilink bushings

    Since I have to install all my new arms anyway but am wanting to replace the bushings in the spindle as well (Mapp gas torch , hammer, wire brush is my preffered method) I figured id just take the whole subframe out to reach everything easier

    My issue though is ..Is there anything wrong with burning out the spindle bushings while its still attached to the subframe and with the hub and bearings attached.

    Same with the lower A arm. Id rather not have to remove the A arm ball joint.

    Probably sounds dumb, I guess im worried about heat radiating into other components as the bushings burn over a long period of time cuz there are grease packed items in the vicinity. I think i remember being told not to do it that way ...but it might not be a big deal.
    Time is the school in which we learn; Time is the fire in which we burn.

  • #2
    I've never done that, but I don't see it being a huge problem if you keep the hub and balljoint cool. I'd probably splash some water on them regularly while burning out bushings. They probably hit around 250+ deg F out on track after you park your car, so I don't think you have to keep them at room temp, but I wouldn't let them roast.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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    • #3
      I wouldn't worry about the heat, but being able to get to them is going to be a royal PITA. IMO it would be easier to take the extra few minutes to pull the thing off the car and then you can do the work on a workbench vs. having to stick your head inside the wheel well with burning rubber and everything else. yucko.
      Originally posted by SoSideways
      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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      • #4
        Yea, I agree with that kid. With 90% of the stuff undone, it's not going to take you much longer to pull it off and work on it, clean it up, then toss it back in.

        Burning stuff on the car sounds like a messed up paint job in the wings...
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          .....And Def would know about that one....
          Originally posted by SoSideways
          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
            .....And Def would know about that one....








            I just think of it as some motivation to finally paint this POS white.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Im taking the whole subframe out regardless. I just didint want to remove the A arm ball joint and disconnect the axles and spindle from the subframe assembly because its more work.

              Removing A arm is worse than removing the subframe itself to me :-P

              Thanks ^_^
              Last edited by ZorRtwice; 02-04-2012, 05:44 PM.
              Time is the school in which we learn; Time is the fire in which we burn.

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              • #8
                If you go aluminum Z32 uprights then it's easy to press the bushings out. I did all mine with the RLCA attached. Stock steel uprights are good for being boat anchors... that's about it.
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                • #9
                  What is a press??

                  I set them alight with mapp gas and hammer the sleeves out. (well ive only done the fronts)

                  You are saying there are tools for this ?

                  Now the term upright refers to the spindle yes? Do they locate the arms in the same relative locations? so there is no change in geometry? (I always call it spindle or knuckle)

                  but I guess i can see it. Doesn't the Z32 share all of its suspension for the most part with the R32? which is of course also compatible with the s13..
                  Time is the school in which we learn; Time is the fire in which we burn.

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                  • #10
                    The rear stuff is usually called an upright, the front usually a knuckle/spindle (since it has a built in bearing spindle or whatever you want to call it).

                    I just used some sockets and a c-clamp on mine - bingo - out in no time.


                    Z32s are the same as S chassis stuff, they're aluminum, about 7 lbs lighter per side, but use a fork style shock instead of a stud style mount. This is all really well covered by multiple sources in lots of detail.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                    • #11
                      I dropped my subframe and just disconnected the arms, did everything with the uprights still connected to the axles.

                      Tried to torch them, but the rubber really didn't burn much because the space is so small and no oxygen getting in there. We ended up using a 3/16 rotozip bit in a dremmel to clear out some of the rubber between the metal, then just hammer/socket them out.

                      For the sleeves I used a sawzall to cut them, being careful not to cut into the upright (as little as possible, anyway). Once I had a clean cut all the way across the sleeve I used a hammer and 3/8 cold chisel to peel up a corner near the cut, then they start to slide out.

                      For pressing in the bushings I foolishly tried to use a c-clamp, but it would just start to walk away from center when I started to torque it down, causing the bushing to bulge out the opposite side. We ended up setting up a giant vice laying on its side on milk crates next to the subframe - lol :/

                      If I did it again, I would definitely remove the uprights so I could work on a bench or w/e. It was retarded to leave them on the subframe/axles.

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                      • #12
                        Urethane bushings? If so, save yourself the trouble and avoid them. They suck...

                        I've got some spherical bearings that will fix you right up. Easy install with a c-clamp.
                        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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                        • #13
                          To go spherical...

                          There was no question.
                          Originally posted by Matt93SE
                          in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

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                          • #14
                            Im only using urethane for the spindles.

                            I already have spherical bearing arms. But no since leaving the rubber bushings in the spindles ..

                            Plus I need front and rear LCA bushings ...

                            Ill put the urethane bushings in my stock arms to function as emergency spares or to sell ..

                            Im kind of waiting till I have enough $ for bushings to bother putting on my arms.
                            Last edited by ZorRtwice; 02-17-2012, 04:40 AM.
                            Time is the school in which we learn; Time is the fire in which we burn.

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                            • #15
                              Full spherical is the way to go. The urethane bushing would be great if the movement was completely axial, but it's not. Having arms with sphericals at one end does not solve this. This is why the stock bushing rubber doesn't completely fill the metal sleeves.

                              I built the tool that Nissan describes in the FSM. It's a 12mm acme threaded rod with 2 acme nuts. Big socket on one side, small on the other, and squeeze them together. Self aligning and captive is great. Still have some of that rod, but the nuts get mushed up after doing a couple cars. Got it all from McMaster-Carr.
                              She's built like a Steakhouse, but she handles like a Bistro.

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