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2Q: Strut tower brace and hood clearance

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  • 2Q: Strut tower brace and hood clearance

    Summary:
    Q1: What hoods have the most clearance? (fiberglass or ?)
    Q2: When you go top feed and your strut bar doesn't clear, do you have to have a custom one made? What aftermarket strut bars offer the most clearance?


    Details: My mechanic is near completion on the installation of a built replacement SR20DET for the SR20DET I already had in my 1989 240sx, (it developed a slight rod knock). My new engine build is on the same Nismo engine mounts I had, but incorporates an HKS top feed fuel rail and Injector Dynamics ID1000cc injectors. My vented fiberglass hood already rode on the valve cover on my old setup, but now with the top feed fuel rail there's no way I am even going to try and put my hood on after looking at how hight the fuel rail is relative to the fender/hood line. I am guessing that I will have to go back to a stock hood but I am skeptical as to whether even tht will work. There has to be an aftermarket option that provides more clearance than the stock unit and is lightweight, with better venting.

    Also, once you go top feed do you have to have a custom strut tower brace made or is there an aftermarket one that provides a good deal of clearance? My mechanic said my old Cusco one probably wasn't doing much anyway, but that doesn't mean that I should go without one. The car is a daily driver / HPDE / autocross car with suspension, 17" RPF01s, Z32 brakes, stripped interior, but no cage.

    I would appreciate any help offered...

  • #2
    My car had Nismo mounts, top feed injectors, and a Courtesy Nissan brace...and the very front of the rail rubbed against he fireblanket thing that is under the hood. I cut it a little and it was fine. The rail had good engine clearance , and didn't hit the hood. Small little bar helped.

    I wanted to upgrade to the Fraz bar, and immediately ran into clearance issues with the top feed rail. I contemplated on spacing the bar up slightly, but the forum suggested to go with JGS mounts. So I did. The difference is pretty clear in the pictures, and easy 3/4" TO 1" drop

    (Try to look past the stupid high ISO grain, I didn't have good light and just needed it for rerfernece.)

    Nismo Mounts:


    JGS Mounts:
    'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
    [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
    [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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    • #3
      JGS rubber mounts and the Johnnie Fraz bar are both the bomb!
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        I figured if I go to lower engine mounts (JGS or Dift Freqa poly mounts) it would be a good idea to buy a PBM skid plate to protect the oil pan. Right now my Greddy oil pan is about flush with the cross member even with Nismo mounts...

        Thank you both of you for your feedback.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Seraphim38 View Post
          I figured if I go to lower engine mounts (JGS or Dift Freqa poly mounts) it would be a good idea to buy a PBM skid plate to protect the oil pan. Right now my Greddy oil pan is about flush with the cross member even with Nismo mounts...

          Thank you both of you for your feedback.
          The Drift Freaq mounts don't drop them as much as the JGS ones do, I noticed that on my roomates car with his strut bar.

          In regard to the skid plate, no real need, as my Greddy pan is flush with the lower cross member. Any skid plate you put on this side of a custom made one out of really thick stuff is going to bend and bash the pan anyway.
          'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
          [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
          [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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