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Info Request: KA24DE Valve Spring Specs

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  • Info Request: KA24DE Valve Spring Specs

    Hey guys. Was wondering if anyone had some specs I'm looking for on the KA24DE Valve Springs. Here's what I'm looking for:

    Spring Inner Diameter
    Spring Outer Diameter
    and Rate if possible

    Main reason I ask is I've seen it pip up more then once that the KA Valve springs can be changed out for CA18DET and VG30DE(TT) valves srpings. Main reason I want to know is I'm trying to find a low budget valve spring upgrade that will allow a KA to hold 7500+ RPM with boost without a problem. I've seen guys claim 7500rpm N/A but all those claim that are running stock came which are no more then 248 duration and 9.4mm of lift. Cause if the CA and VG spring interchangeable rumor holds true then VQ springs would work which if stiff then stock KA springs which I would assume. You can get a set of new ones for $65 for 16.

    CA, VG and VQ (Along with a few others) have spring dimension of 27.5mm Outer and 20.0mm Inner diameters.

    Thanks in advance guys.

  • #2
    Matt Powers' KA-t last season ,if I remember correctly, was using the JWT ?290? cams with a Honda valve spring setup. I would like to know about this type of info also.

    I'd also like to know what kind of work it takes to fit the VQ buckets into the KA head too. I'm in the middle of a build right now and this kind of info could prove to be more than useful.
    Originally posted by Matt93SE
    in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

    Comment


    • #3
      You can use either BC or SuperTech Valve Spring Seats and Retainers and you can use any Honda B-Series Valve Springs Dual or Single. Early B16's had Dual Intake and Exhaust Valve Springs. Later B16's and B18's (VTEC: GSR & TypeR) only had Dual on the Intake and Single on the Exhaust. Thing is even for stock B-Series Valve Springs your looking at $120 plus normally unless you get cut a good deal.

      As for the VQ buckets IIRC there drop in. Whichever leads me even more to think VQ Springs would work.

      Comment


      • #4
        Good to know about the Honda springs. Eventing I ever read about the VQ buckets started off with "head modified for VQ buckets", which is why it came to mind. It supposedly ends up shedding weight off of that area, which I guess improves response?

        IDK, my ADD just mixed with coffee and here I am cluttering your thread now.
        Originally posted by Matt93SE
        in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

        Comment


        • #5
          I believe that's said because the ppl that used the VQ buckets were also running the JWT Race Spec came that have some high amounts of lift in the near 12mm IIRC. And I believe the modifictaions that were done to the head were done to allow the can lobes to clear the area where the buckets sit n such. I could be wrong but that is what I fan remember reading some time ago.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by KA240SX808 View Post
            Hey guys. Was wondering if anyone had some specs I'm looking for on the KA24DE Valve Springs. Here's what I'm looking for:

            Spring Inner Diameter
            Spring Outer Diameter
            and Rate if possible

            Main reason I ask is I've seen it pip up more then once that the KA Valve springs can be changed out for CA18DET and VG30DE(TT) valves srpings. Main reason I want to know is I'm trying to find a low budget valve spring upgrade that will allow a KA to hold 7500+ RPM with boost without a problem. I've seen guys claim 7500rpm N/A but all those claim that are running stock came which are no more then 248 duration and 9.4mm of lift. Cause if the CA and VG spring interchangeable rumor holds true then VQ springs would work which if stiff then stock KA springs which I would assume. You can get a set of new ones for $65 for 16.

            CA, VG and VQ (Along with a few others) have spring dimension of 27.5mm Outer and 20.0mm Inner diameters.

            Thanks in advance guys.
            Is this not listed in the FSM?
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

            Comment


            • #7
              They only list Out Of Round Specs, Install Height & I think I saw the rate in one of the FSM's but I can't seem to find it again.

              Also did some more research. The VQ HR and the VR use the Same Buckets/Followers and share the same Valve Spring specs and are surprisingly a Tad cheaper than the HR ones lol. If there even stiffer then the HR's then that's even better. But I mean I really don't need anything too stiff. My motors only gonna see 7500. Maybe venture in 8000 if the power can be made there.

              Ok did a little more digging n found the VK56 also share the same Spring dimensions as the VQ. Best part is the valve springs brand new are only 1.50 each. If these are any bit stiffer than KA springs that would probably be the most budget oriented route.
              Last edited by KA240SX808; 11-20-2011, 07:10 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                The VK56 doesn't rev very high does it? You'll likely find the rate will be roughly equivalent to the engine's stock redline except for when you are trying to move a really big valve (but I imagine most of these we're talking about are roughly the same weight).
                '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                Comment


                • #9
                  Awesome, thanks for that bit of info. Can't wait to see what else you find.
                  Originally posted by Matt93SE
                  in engrish, it's all about the length of your shaft... :P

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Def View Post
                    The VK56 doesn't rev very high does it? You'll likely find the rate will be roughly equivalent to the engine's stock redline except for when you are trying to move a really big valve (but I imagine most of these we're talking about are roughly the same weight).
                    Yeah I'm keeping this in mind. But not cutting down any options till I get info on it.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      What are you doing about stroke (piston speeds)...???

                      It's generally accepted that 7100-7200 is the "safe limit" for a stock crank.

                      Upgraded rods will help, but IMO...the valvetrain should be second to bottom end mods.

                      That said, my stock motor/stock head with JWT cams sees ~7000 regularly with zero trouble after many, many miles...at ~320rwhp.

                      - Brian
                      '96 240SX | KA-T - 320rwhp @ 12psi | ~2700lbs
                      Koni 8611 & GC's - 600/450 | RPF1's - 17x9.5

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The '98 FSM lists free height at 44.6mm or 1.756in and pressure at 548.70N at 26mm or 123.37lbs at 1.024in. No inner or outer diameter though. That may help a little though.
                        98 240SX SCCA STUish

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          http://www.supertechperformance.com/...ection=ivalves
                          Lists spring dimentions for their springs.
                          98 240SX SCCA STUish

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by orion View Post
                            What are you doing about stroke (piston speeds)...???

                            It's generally accepted that 7100-7200 is the "safe limit" for a stock crank.

                            Upgraded rods will help, but IMO...the valvetrain should be second to bottom end mods.

                            That said, my stock motor/stock head with JWT cams sees ~7000 regularly with zero trouble after many, many miles...at ~320rwhp.

                            - Brian
                            Well I'm gonna do what ever I can to keep the bottom end together without going with a Full-CW Crank.

                            I will have "Looser" then "Normal" Bearing clearances, I'll have ARP Hardware (Main Studs, Head Studs & Rod Bolts), not sure if I can get away with Shot Peened Stock Rods w/ ARP Bolts or if I should get Aftermarket ones. Rotating Assembly will be fully balanced, Counter weights bull nosed, Crank Dampener Pulley Bolt drilled through #1 Journal (Stock stops way before then, also GT KA's do this to help dampening).

                            So I think the bottom end should be stout enough to keep it's self together. If not I guess I'm gonna find out the hard way. But there's quite a few "Stock" KA-T's (on KA-T.org) that claim 7500 no problem. How often they see 7500 IDK.

                            Originally posted by Joe D View Post
                            The '98 FSM lists free height at 44.6mm or 1.756in and pressure at 548.70N at 26mm or 123.37lbs at 1.024in. No inner or outer diameter though. That may help a little though.
                            Awesome thanks. Did it mention Installed height/seat pressure?

                            Originally posted by Joe D View Post
                            http://www.supertechperformance.com/...ection=ivalves
                            Lists spring dimentions for their springs.
                            This is were I was ref. the valve spring info (Verified "Stock" dimension by looking for the springs that can be used with "OEM Seats")

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by KA240SX808 View Post
                              Well I'm gonna do what ever I can to keep the bottom end together without going with a Full-CW Crank.

                              ...not sure if I can get away with Shot Peened Stock Rods w/ ARP Bolts or if I should get Aftermarket ones.

                              So I think the bottom end should be stout enough to keep it's self together. If not I guess I'm gonna find out the hard way.

                              But there's quite a few "Stock" KA-T's (on KA-T.org) that claim 7500 no problem. How often they see 7500 IDK.
                              I think that for track use, 7500 is pushing it...ESPECIALLY on stock rods (shotpeened, treated or otherwise enhanced).

                              I'd opt for some aftermarket rods.

                              Coutnerweighted crank or ATI damper...none of that addresses the ridiculous piston speeds you'll be seeing at 7500rpm with stock stroke. And IMO, that's the problem.

                              I did the math on it years ago, and the piston speeds were higher than any recommended safe limit...at less than 7500rpm.

                              That kind of mass (the pistons + wrist pins) at +7000 RPM with stock stroke...is just too much for stock rods.

                              Anyway, I don't mean to derail your thread with this...but it's certainly nothing to forget/ignore.

                              Just trying to give your KA the best chance at a long life.

                              ...

                              A question: Why do you want/need the extra RPM?

                              - Brian
                              '96 240SX | KA-T - 320rwhp @ 12psi | ~2700lbs
                              Koni 8611 & GC's - 600/450 | RPF1's - 17x9.5

                              Comment

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