Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

anyone running aftermarket sphericals on emusa suspension parts

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • anyone running aftermarket sphericals on emusa suspension parts

    Was looking at picking up a set of ebay suspension arms so do my rear suspension, then swap out the ends. Just wondering if anyone has swapped the ends on the emusa arms (toe, ruca). I mean for the price, it seems a good deal to buy for upgrading them

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/89-94...item336b5ab726
    ---
    Bright White S13 KA-T Hatch

  • #2
    no i havent run that gear. mine are all circuit sports. but, i wanted go a tad ot for just a sec. (sorry) why is everyone replacing bearings before the bearings that come with it go bad? i plan on replacing mine eventually. but, not before i start seeing issues with the 'crap' bearings that are in there. i havent seen that yet so its kind of a non-issue at this point. I guess my point is, for the money, buy them. then start finding a way to replace them. it can be done. my guess you will have some time before they start to go bad to source replacements.

    Comment


    • #3
      Gotta make sure you can even get replacements first, since a lot of the cheaper arms use non-standard bearing or rod end sizes, and the replacements can be as expensive as over $30 for a rod end.
      http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by SoSideways View Post
        Gotta make sure you can even get replacements first, since a lot of the cheaper arms use non-standard bearing or rod end sizes, and the replacements can be as expensive as over $30 for a rod end.
        ahhh, i see. i read your other post on 's14 suspension' regarding the same issue. thanks for the knowledge. mine seem to be holding up. but, the car sits in a garage and doesnt get abused on bad days.

        Comment


        • #5
          Yeah see, I still have the version 1 SPL Parts tension rods up front, and the bearings have some surface rust on the ball part, but it still rotates freely without sticking, and I have had these since like 2003. I live in FL right by the Atlantic Ocean, so having good bearings will make a difference in reliability even just in daily driving, as well as seeing track abuse.
          http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by SoSideways View Post
            Gotta make sure you can even get replacements first, since a lot of the cheaper arms use non-standard bearing or rod end sizes, and the replacements can be as expensive as over $30 for a rod end.
            30$ a rod end doesnt seem that bad?

            granted I was looking at QA1's listing for rod ends earlier and they had some for 6$, but if 6$ is an expensive rod end, what are they using when they make them in china? what should I expect to pay for mid/high quality ends from QA1? sorry, new to all this, all I know is a couple of quality names for rod ends

            plus i was more wondering if people had swapped the ends so they could offer insight on the sizes of the rod ends
            Last edited by Br0k3n; 09-21-2011, 04:40 PM.
            ---
            Bright White S13 KA-T Hatch

            Comment


            • #7
              $30 isn't that bad, but when you're going "budget", $30 adds up fast.

              $30 x2 for the RUCAs.
              $30 x2 for the toe rods.
              $30 x2 for the traction rods.

              That's $180 right there.

              Or, you can use the $60 per set of arms and put that towards $60+ on your budget for arms, and you wouldn't have to worry about the bearings when you first get the arms.

              Not to mention, $30 is just a number I picked out, as there are some rod ends that cost more than $40 out there in odd sizes and PTFE lined and all that jazz.
              http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

              Comment


              • #8
                yeah 30$ a arm isnt that bad, still cheaper than spending 200$ a piece for each pair of arms. just want to do it all while the parts are out of the car. ill measure them when they come in the mail and post my findings, perhaps ill get lucky and have a standard size on them.
                ---
                Bright White S13 KA-T Hatch

                Comment


                • #9
                  If you get arms with SAE threads then you can find "nice" rod ends for about $10-15 ea all day long that will last forever.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                  DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                  http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    almost seems easier to buy the stock to make the main section of the arm and a tap set just to get sae. i saw the diy thread, but never really saw any end results of people using them.

                    the high strength aluminum (2024) doesnt run that expensive on mcmaster
                    on that note, I wish I had access to a machine shop again, was so much easier to fabricate stuff from scratch with proper tools
                    ---
                    Bright White S13 KA-T Hatch

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      BTW, sorry I left my caliper at home again. I had it in my hand and was leaving for the garage, then I made a detour or something and somehow left it.

                      I realized it by the time I was at US1 and Eau Gallie. Oh well, I'll bring it up to you today if I have time.
                      http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X