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  • Help - leaking trans fluid

    If anyone knows how to stop trans fluid leaking up through the shifter shaft I'm all ears. I have a B&M shifter. Just curious if anyone else that tracks their car has experienced this?? I checked the level and sealed everything I could with silicone. I also checked the breather tube and its clear and dry. It never started leaking like this until I upped the revs to 7500 rpm. Its seems more like splashing than pressure related. Thanks.
    NASA Time Trials TT3


    BTW I work for Garrett

  • #2
    Hmmm, my knockoff B&M never really splashed out top very much, maybe just enough to keep it moist.

    I think the easiest thing would be to fab up a little splash plate on the bottom of the B&M plate to keep fluid from directly hitting the shifter pivot.
    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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    • #3
      What type of gear lube do you use? I use 50% Redline lightweight shockproof and 50% MTL-90. With the turbo motor I actually used 100% Heavy Shockproof.
      NASA Time Trials TT3


      BTW I work for Garrett

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      • #4
        I use the same 50/50 Lightweight SP and MT-90.

        Maybe it's leaking more than I thought, I haven't been under there in a couple of events. I know my speed sensor o-ring was knackered and I replaced that and it seemed to fix a lot of the really slow weeping around that area.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          my stock shifter does the same thing.
          Originally posted by SoSideways
          I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
          '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
          '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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          • #6
            I know this sounds really ghetto, but I too had an issue with that black plastic accordian thing on the shifter (not the upper one secured by the metal ring in the car) ripping, and getting some fluid out.

            What I did (puts on flame suit) is take a ziploc baggy, got it around there, and then duct taped it up with decent duct-tape. I know, I know, super ghetto, but it's 'clean as a whistle' there now.
            'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
            [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
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            • #7
              When I installed a different shifter the original inner boot wouldn't fit. I went to the parts store and looked through some replacement CV joint boots and found one that fit. I installed it with zipties top and bottom and haven't had a problem at 7200rpm.
              Don Johnson (really!)
              Just so you know.

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              • #8
                CodyAce's one might work for you. Custom fit.

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                • #9
                  when i bought my C's shifter several years ago it came with a new lower accordian boot and some zipties to secure it at the top and bottom. if your accordian boot is old/swollen try buying a new one that fits the B&M and securing it with zipties.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by djsilver View Post
                    When I installed a different shifter the original inner boot wouldn't fit. I went to the parts store and looked through some replacement CV joint boots and found one that fit. I installed it with zipties top and bottom and haven't had a problem at 7200rpm.
                    Damn good idea. I'mma hafta try that one. I tried the baggie and duct tape thing and it didn't last long.
                    Originally posted by SoSideways
                    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                    • #11
                      So I took the shifter apart last night and there is a tear in the boot not to mention it's pretty rigid from heat exposure. The tear was difficult to see with the boot on the shifter. There is also a wear spot on the top portion of the shifter hsg at what looks like a fourth gear position. Some material has been pushed up, which tore the boot. Some dimensions must be off cause it only goes together one way. I'm going to clean it up and remove the raised burr.

                      I like the CV boot idea. I think the ziplock bag would melt or soften and tear after 20 minutes of full bore driving. Once I get a CV boot part number, which works for the B&M or knockoff, I'll post it. Thanks.
                      Last edited by 240sxTTC; 07-25-2011, 10:42 AM.
                      NASA Time Trials TT3


                      BTW I work for Garrett

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                      • #12
                        I think this might be the oil smell I always get when I do a long drive. It starts coming into the cabin and makes driving unpleasant. I'll check it out. It is also the reason my girlfriend never wants to ride in it.
                        Chicago Region SCCA SM # 688 http://www.scca-chicago.com
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by eye-5 View Post
                          I think this might be the oil smell I always get when I do a long drive. It starts coming into the cabin and makes driving unpleasant. I'll check it out. It is also the reason my girlfriend never wants to ride in it.

                          I'm sure it is because it is blown right onto the exhaust. I have my muffler and exhaust piped wrapped. The oil soaks into the wrap and smokes for a while until oil is burned off. Burning gear oil smells terrible.
                          NASA Time Trials TT3


                          BTW I work for Garrett

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                          • #14
                            Also keep in mind your differential can out-gas a bit as well. With my VLSD, there's no smell. When I run the HLSD, I can usually smell a bit of burning oil toward the end of a race due to the differential vent tube. I'm guessing the smoke gets into the trunk and eventually back into the cabin. But it only happens with the HLSD and only after 20+ minutes on track.
                            Talking to my friend that races an S13, he says he has the same issues, and his clutch type diff also gets stinky near the end of the race when it gets hot.

                            just something else to keep in mind when you're looking for gear oil smells.
                            Originally posted by SoSideways
                            I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                            '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                            '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                            • #15
                              I've had this same issue; I like the cv boot idea; or the oil deflector. You would think they would just of put a seal on the bottom or some sort of Teflon slide assembly. I may look into making a Delrin assembly...

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