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  • Polly subframe bushings from energy...

    They don't re-use the outer metal sleeve from the old bushings do they?

    That seems freaking retarded to sell a replacement bushing that requires leftovers from the part its replacing. If they do, I think I'm also kinda screwed as I have 2 of my 4 old bushings completely out already.


    Please tell me the front and rear bushings are slightly different diameters, or possibly what I should be thinking about doing to make this bushing install work.
    '95 240sx

  • #2
    Yes they re-use the shell, like quite a few of their other bushings.

    If you already have two completely out, you either need another subframe, to start over with, or different bushings, I believe megan has something like stockers, and spl of course has complete solids.

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    • #3
      FML, event on the 22nd.


      are there any aluminum bushings that also reuse the shell that id want to avoid at this point?
      '95 240sx

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      • #4
        SPLs don't reuse the shell on S14 rear subframes.
        '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


        DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
        http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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        • #5
          Picked up a set of sikky subframe bushings today from a local shop.

          Good news is that these ones raise the subframe up a hair. Bad news is that they're not adjustable like the SPL units, but for short notice and not having to pay shipping I'm happy. Assuming they fit properly of course.
          '95 240sx

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          • #6
            Adjusting the subframe height with SPL's shims is stupid. You'll snap the studs with solid bushings changing it front to rear, and who the hell would want it anything but all the way raised up. Just a waste of money on everybody's end IMO.

            So don't feel bad, you just want the subframe up against the body.
            '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


            DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
            http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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            • #7
              Pretty much.

              Now I've got to hunt down a large nut and bolt to help persuade the new bushings into their new homes tomorrow evening.
              '95 240sx

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              • #8
                Bumping this instead of a new thread....

                The aluminum bushings raised my subframe by 3/8''. Cool.
                The parking brake cables are now sandwiched between the tank's heat shield and the subframe... Thats fine, makes it harder for them to come loose again.

                But when I took it in to get an alignment yesterday, the tech noticed my RUCA's (aftermarket Peak Performance units) hitting the pinch welds on the bottom of my chassis' frame rails... Or at least close enough to hit under cornering related compression loads.

                We used an air hammer to clearance the pinch welds out of the way, but I'm wondering if this has happened to any one else when raising the subframe?
                '95 240sx

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                • #9
                  Raise the car ?

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                  • #10
                    Yea, sounds like your car is way too low to be hitting the pinch weld. I run out of travel as it is on track and my arms are no where near hitting the pinch weld. Your tires much be super narrow to go that far into the wheel well.
                    '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                    DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
                    http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      225's on 16x8 wheels... LCA's are parallel / pointing a little downwards still, but the rear is raised up as high as I can on the stance coil-overs with the helper springs. Because the helper springs helped the handling so much at the back end of the car, I'm inclined to keep them and the ride height as is.

                      Car is still at the ride height pictured here, forgive the water mark, but its the best one I found from the last event where the near side is under compression.

                      '95 240sx

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                      • #12


                        You need to burn the rubber out but I would just spend 10$$ extra and get solid aluminum ones and remove the outer ring.

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                        • #13
                          Yeah... kind of did that already?
                          '95 240sx

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