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Problem with rear noise, car goes left @wot, right without throttle...

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  • Problem with rear noise, car goes left @wot, right without throttle...

    Hi, im asking for ideas, my car is a 9f 180sx, problem started one day, when I accelerate, the car would go to the left without turning the wheel, if I let the gas pedal out, car would go to the right, so I had bad rear subframe bushings and installed energy suspension poly bushings, Also did a complete z32 brake upgrade out of a 91 Z, my car came with a nismo 2way lsd,tanabe sustec pro coilovers, the lsd clunks when turning at low speeds but that is normal on a 2 way, now the car does that when going straight along with the going left/ right problem

    The subframe is straight, touching the chassis flush, checked lower control arm bushings, traccion rod bushings, etc and everything is ok, the driveshaft mount is also ok, the driveshaft doesnt vibrates, what can be wrong? Don't know what more can I do, Thanks

  • #2
    Get an alignment.


    Check your front core support (that the tension rod brackets bolt to). It's held on with a few spot welds and they like to pop free and your front wheels move all over the place.
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    • #3
      Thanks, the front is tight, the noise is from the rear, like when you turn with a 2 way lsd at slow speeds, but it makes it going straight...

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      • #4
        Your rear tires are different sizes or pressures. The different tire diameters are making it go one way or another.

        Id change it asap since your overworking your diff.

        ~Alex

        ps your right tire is bigger or has more pressure. See if the left one is flat.

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        • #5
          I do have different brand tires, but same size and pressure, the problem didn't start when I changed the tire... don't know what could make my car to drive that way without any change...

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          • #6
            Check for broken belts or something like that, thats what happened to my last 240, stupid goodyears. LSD locking and un locking going straight is a dead give away that the tires aren't the same diameter though.

            Different brands can be different actual sizes but if that didn't start with the tire change then that should not be the problem.

            If every suspension point is tight id check for tire damage and alignment being out of spec.

            When you check for loose parts, jack up the subframe and move the wheel in every direction, and then jack it up by the lower control arm so weight is off the tire and its at its normal ride height.

            ~Alex

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            • #7
              Also unhook the sway bar when checking suspension parts.

              Those little f'ers keep you from finding anything since you suspension is always loaded. Been there and done that. I had too much play in a front top plate, but not enought to notice it with the sway bar on.

              Also is the car Hicas?

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              • #8
                Thanks guys, Im going to check with the sway bar disconnected, the locking unlocking does it only at low speeds...

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                • #9
                  It's probably constantly locked at higher speeds.

                  Different brands, same "size" means your rear tires are different sizes. Always run the same brand/size tire on the same axle of a car - ALWAYS. That's your problem.
                  '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


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                  • #10
                    Seriously have a look at tire rack's side by side comparison of 10 tires all the same "size" and look at the column that says revolutions at 60mph...WTF
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                    • #11
                      Something is loose.

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                      • #12
                        ^^^ I really feel the wheel diameters are going to be the issue here...seen it too many times
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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Tower240sx View Post
                          ^^^ I really feel the wheel diameters are going to be the issue here...seen it too many times
                          Yep, different brand tires aren't even close to the same size on width or overall diameter.
                          '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


                          DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
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                          • #14
                            Check the diff itself. since you have clunking, *something* is not rotating properly. If the car pulls left on acceleration then it sounds like the problem is in the left side I'd guess. right wheel is pushing, left wheel is not. that pushes the car to the left under accel.


                            also take a look at toe rod, traction rods, etc. it sounds to me like something is loose or broken in the back end due to the clunking.

                            does the clunking change with speed, or does it just do it when you get on/let off the gas? if it clunks in relation to speed, then it's something in the rotating driveline. if it's just when on/off gas, then it's something in the suspension.
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                            • #15
                              Lots of salisbury diffs will clunk a bit as the clutch plates lock up or unlock.
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