Looping power steering lines on s13 ???

[Black R]

*I did a search...

I have a leak somewhere in my ps system and it's getting messy.

Is there a writeup somewhere showing what I need to loop?

I mean like what size / length / type lines and fittings, T's etc...

I intend to get my ps system back fully functional in the future, but in the interim, I don't want to continue leaving dexron drips everywhere I park.

So in the meantime, I'll just remove the belt from the pump, run looped lines and maybe a breather?

[2Fass240us]

I looped my lines, using XRP fittings from a local shop, hose, and clamps. Here are some pictures:




If you can't make out the P/N's in the following picture, I can track down the original image and get them for you.


BTW, please check your PMs. You mentioned not getting notification, and I've sent you a couple recently.

[Matt93SE]

I just cut the end off the high pressure hose where there was tube sticking out (the hose was sweating fluid so it was dead anyway) and shoved the low pressure return line over the end of the tube. clamped it down with some hose clamps and voila.

For the belt, my S14 PS pump shares the belt with the water pump. I found a belt the perfect length and unbolted the water pump pulley, slipped the belt over it, then bolted the pulley back on. perfect fit. I have an ASP underdrive pulley, so those with a stock pulley can't use the same belt... but the theory is still the same. surely there's a belt that will fit if you need to do that.

[2Fass240us]

The only reason I didn't do what Matt did is that I didn't have the lines. I should admit that I'm not sure I would want to ruin a perfectly good line if I had one though, especially when you might want to keep them around in the event that you change your mind down the road.

[Black R]

Ya I think my high pressure hose is leaking anyway so I'll do the ghetto method.

It's funny bc I did find this thread in a google search:

http://forums.freshalloy.com/showthread.php?t=109649&page=16

2Fass, I'm sending you a pm reply also.

[Bubba]

Find a hydraulic repair shop,

remove the high pressure line and bring it to them.
Bring the power steering pump bolt that secures the line with you.
Ask for a line to be made with similar hardware as long as the threads match.

IIRC I now have a 300 bar hydraulic line from a CAT back-hoe with ends matching my hardware.

Cost me less than $50. Guy said, "if it leaks I'll make you 3 more at no charge"
**** that OEM garbage. I love all Nissan OEM items except that one I think. Haha

[eye-5]

That high pressure line is known to sweat. That is most likely the problem. Try replacing it with an aftermarket one. Seems easier than trying to bypass the system altogether. My after market one was $90.

[tonto]

Re: de-powering the rack

i haven't taken a nissan rack apart to see if its the same deal, but i'm planning on doing my miata one this winter a little bit more hardcore you could say. you take it apart, remove all of the valves in there and weld up the pinion so that it doesn't flex. supposed to do wonders for the steering feel because you aren't pumping the fluid from side to side by hand and that little "wiggle" in the pinion is gone too.

if what i wrote makes no sense see here: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

[Mr. J]

I depowered my steering rack as described in the below thread:

http://zilvia.net/f/chat/215942-last-depowered-rack.html

I really like the results. At first driving around it required a lot of effort to make tight low-speed turns, although I'm not sure if that was entirely to blame on the rack alone or a combination of the rack, new SPL tie rod ends, and low offset wheels with Kumho XS'. I ended up driving around the rest of the summer on stock wheels and absolutely loved the rack.

The conversion wasn't particularly difficult and was essentially free (I ended up buying a non-HICAS rack because I didn't want to hack up my RHD HICAS rack)

[Black R]

Hydraulic repair shop? Hmmm

Google is my friend.

[kingkilburn]

If you don't want to bother getting the system properly repaired you'd be better off depowering the rack than just looping the lines. When you loop the lines you end up have to pump the fluid through yourself on top of not having the pump assisting you.

[Matt93SE]

looping the lines just keeps crap from getting in there. My lines are completely empty of fluid so it's just moving air. it's about as much effort as my old Mitsu that came with no power steering stock. I can drive 4-5 hrs on track in a day and still not tired.

[racepar1]

Just get a junk rack for free/cheap from somewhere and de-power it. I de-powered a rack for my 240 because I don't have P/S pump for my N/A S15 SR. I noticed that the steering wheel re-centers MUCH better with manual steering. If I like it I'll de-power my hicas rack and install that...

A rack with looped lines will ALWAYS have some fluid in it and that fluid will ALWAYS lead to more steering resistance. You simply cannot get it all out without taking the rack apart. It is literally a physical impossibility...

[eye-5]

I drove a students car at our beginner autocross school with no power steering. He was like wow, you barely even turned and was super close on those cones. It wasn't all on purpose, that thing was hard to turn. Once up to speed or for road course its probably fine but for autocross I need my power steering.

[stewiefied]

I drove a while without power steering and it honestly didnt even affect me at autocross. But then again I didnt have 275's on the front.

If anyone is looking to depower their rack and doesnt keep up with moto IQ (shame on you) they had a great article on it.

http://www.motoiq.com/magazine_articles/articletype/articleview/articleid/1709/project-miatabusa-part-5--de-powering-the-steering-rack.aspx