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Wheel studs - ARP P/N 100-7716

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  • Wheel studs - ARP P/N 100-7716

    These are showing as 0.565 Knurl Diameter; 3 UHL; 0.27 Knurl Length; 0.35 Nose Length; M12 x 1.25 Thread Size [Subaru Impreza(2002-2007)]. Will they fit N/A Z32 rear spindles and S13 attain fronts? I've searched and its looking like yes, they will, but I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this yet.

    Before I just get the 12x1.5 ones I've got some expensive lug nuts I don't want to replace, but studs that do require replacement.
    Last edited by Geno; 09-02-2011, 02:46 PM.

  • #2
    Those studs will work up front, but not in back. The z32, S14, and S13 rear hubs all use the same studs.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by AceInHole View Post
      Those studs will work up front, but not in back. The z32, S14, and S13 rear hubs all use the same studs.
      Ah, that was my nagging suspicion. Looks like it will be these ARP's in the front, and the Peak Performance studs in the rear.

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      • #4
        ARP has studs that will fit both ends, but they don't have the fast-on threading on one of them. they're all like 2.5 or 3 or 3.5" but some just dont' have the fast on self-threading thingy.
        Originally posted by SoSideways
        I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
        '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
        '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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        • #5
          I'll look back through my files later, but I used IIRC Camaro Studs for the front, and Mustang ones for the rear, and it saved me a boat load of money and they came next day via summitt
          'Slicks on a car show me you care - broken axles show me you're trying'
          [I]Nitrous Rental Cars - Turbo Festivas - Vehicular Lunacy[/I]
          [SIZE="3"][B][url]www.sloppymechanics.com[/url][/B][/SIZE]

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          • #6
            Originally posted by CodyAce View Post
            I'll look back through my files later, but I used IIRC Camaro Studs for the front, and Mustang ones for the rear, and it saved me a boat load of money and they came next day via summitt
            doo eet

            I will need fronts in short order.

            Comment


            • #7
              I'm running M12x1.50 threaded studs front and rear. It's much easier than having mixed lugnuts (and possibly having a co-driver or extra hand mess something up).

              My setup:
              S13/14 Rear, S13 Front: ARP 100-7708
              Thread Size 12mm x 1.50 RH
              Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.509 in.
              Underhead Length (in) 2.500 in.
              Knurl Length (in) 0.315 in.
              Quick-Start Nose No

              S14 Front (350z/ G35 Front & Rear): ARP 100-7717
              Thread Size 12mm x 1.50 RH
              Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.565 in.
              Underhead Length (in) 3.000 in.
              Knurl Length (in) 0.270 in.
              Quick-Start Nose Yes

              It's also MUCH easier to find lugnuts for this thread pitch. I highly recommend this setup.
              Last edited by AceInHole; 10-07-2010, 08:10 AM.

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              • #8
                ^^^^ those are the ones I was talking about. too bad the rears dont' have the quick start...
                then again you could always drill the rear hubs to fit the .565" knurl....
                Originally posted by SoSideways
                I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                Comment


                • #9
                  I'm using the same as Ace but if I started over I might just drill the rears like was mentioned. Another option for the rears is p/n 100-7719. It's an early Miata part with a .507 knurl, 2.75" long, M12x1.5 and a .350 nose. It's a 4-pack so you'd have to buy 3 packs.
                  Don Johnson (really!)
                  Just so you know.

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                  • #10
                    I went and ordered the peak boost studs for the rear, and the subaru ARP's for the fronts. Now time to go find out what kind of beer the machine shop guy likes so I can bribe him and use his press.

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                    • #11
                      Press? I use a hammer, a stack of washers, a flared nut, and an impact wrench.
                      Originally posted by SoSideways
                      I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                      '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                      '96 240SX- The Track Toy

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Geno View Post
                        I went and ordered the peak boost studs for the rear, and the subaru ARP's for the fronts. Now time to go find out what kind of beer the machine shop guy likes so I can bribe him and use his press.
                        You don't need a press for studs. Just bang the old ones out. You do have a 2lb hammer, don't you?

                        To install the new ones use some spacers and a lug nut turned backwards. As you tighten the lugnut it'll pull the stud into position.
                        Don Johnson (really!)
                        Just so you know.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Matt93SE View Post
                          Press? I use a hammer, a stack of washers, a flared nut, and an impact wrench.
                          Normally I do just that, but I'm lazy, and would rather just buy a case of beer, instead of a new socket (Last one I used broke).

                          Edit: Damn you people and pointing out how easy it is, I just hate how annoying removing the old studs can be. Oh well time to go break in the new mini sledge

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                          • #14
                            I use plenty of anti-sieze when I pull mine into the hubs, and switch lug nuts. You don't want to get them too hot.

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                            • #15
                              I just dab some grease on the threads and washers (the washers act like a bearing). A breaker bar instead of an impact wrench helps to get a feel for if everything is pulling in smoothly.

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