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Not-So-Ultimate Rear LCAs Thread

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  • Not-So-Ultimate Rear LCAs Thread

    Not quite a DIY or How-To, but I finally convinced myself to at least buy some cheap Ebayspeed lower control arms to help with the horrid roll-centers I have:


    (Item 1: Horrid roll-center)

    It was insanely hot today so I didn't take too many pictures during, but some notes of what occured during the install:

    1. The Z32 spindles are either thicker than the stock S14 rear spindles at the ball joint mount, or the taper for the pin on the Ebayspeed arms is way off (it wasn't perfect, but it went in). The nut wouldn't thread down enough to get a cotter pin in, so I loaded it with lock-tite and called it a day, until I can at least get a deformed thread mechanical lock nut on there.

    2. The lower nuts (below the monoball) are longer than necessary. They didn't even come close to binding with the top tilted as far as possible. Because of this, I went ahead and ground the crap out of them to get myself more adjustment. I was able to get another 12mm (4x 3mm washers stacked) of roll center adjustment thanks to the extra clearance.

    (Item 2: Washer stacks!)

    3. The inner ball joint spacers aren't long enough. I jammed washers in there to soak up the extra space.

    4. My car isn't crazy low, but the suspension looks that way due to the huge rear tires (315/30/R18). Because of that, I'm still short of where I want the roll center. It may be for the better, though, as a huge difference in angles between the LCA and rear upper/ toe arms might create some funky geometry, not that having the arms pointing sky-high is great to begin with anyways. Either way, the main goal right now is to reduce unnecessary roll (let the suspension soak up bumps instead of body roll).

    (Item 3: Almost corrected roll center)



    Right now, I'm ordering new conical inserts for the z32 spindles, to try reaming/ drilling them out on the side. Once that's done I can just swap the tapered pin assembly for some bolts and give myself more adjustment. I might have to look into welding new mounts for the toe arms, or just making an entire drop spindle altogether, but that'll come over winter. I've got to do the fronts tomorrow, which will likely be a copy of Def's project but with M18 bolts instead of the 3/4", at least until I feel like ordering new bearings.


    (Item 5: One last shot of it all together)

  • #2
    Hurry up for the Finger Lakes tour. I'll be there to watch

    What's your rear sway bar? I was thinking of using a spherical end link but can't think of how to make it work, as the stock rear bar mounting hole is vertical, not horizontal like the front. Yours is horizontal.

    Comment


    • #3
      That's what I was planning on doing if I kept the GS stuff in the rear. There really isn't a bearing that "easily" fits in either the inner or outer location. Looks like a big change though, interested to hear how it feels.

      As for the sway bar mount, just toss a piece of angle steel up there. It puts it in single shear, but not really a big deal for that part. I used a 1x1x3/16" piece of 1018 angle I had sitting around to make some mounts on stock rear arms.
      '18 Chevrolet Volt - Electric fun hatch for DD duty!


      DefSport Koni Sleeve and Spring Perch Buy!!!
      http://www.nissanroadracing.com/showthread.php?t=5902

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      • #4
        I'd be weary of bump steer issues. I had moonface roll center adjusters with bout 15mm of adjustment or so, and the rear was very twitchy on semi bumpy roads. I'd start with the minimum amount of adjustment and work your way up depending on how it handled.

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        • #5
          If I had it my way, I'd have another week before the Finger Lakes Tour :P I hate rushed deadlines, but it's probably just a result of my own procrastination. The rear sway is a Whiteline adjustable bar (2 mounting holes), though.

          I'll get to bumpsteer adjustment either tonight or tomorrow, depending on how easily the fronts go together (and how hot it is, 102deg high yesterday). I'm pretty sure I can dial most of it out within the general range of suspension travel (which isn't a lot with 400# springs in back).

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          • #6
            Def if you need me to take pics of what you did on these arms, I'd be more than glad to! hahaha

            I am probably going to take the dremel to the inner bearing mounting cups tonight and open them up a bit, so that the bearings aren't tightly squeezed in there. IIRC, that was part of the problem with the front bearings being so tight, was because the bearings were so tightly squeezed into the bearing mounting cup that the ball was getting squeezed by the bearing outter race or whatever that's called.

            Anyway, gotta find a bucket to soak these bad boys in PB Blaster in...
            http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

            Comment


            • #7
              The outer bearings aren't bad, but the inner bearings for the RLCAs are pretty tight. Still debating whether to pop the bearings out and clearance the mounting cups or not, as I'd rather have them tight than loose.

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              • #8
                1. The Z32 spindles are either thicker than the stock S14 rear spindles at the ball joint mount, or the taper for the pin on the Ebayspeed arms is way off (it wasn't perfect, but it went in). The nut wouldn't thread down enough to get a cotter pin in, so I loaded it with lock-tite and called it a day, until I can at least get a deformed thread mechanical lock nut on there.
                Hmm, does yours look like this? I have the battle version RLCA's and this was as far as I got mine before stripping the castle nut with my nice 18V dewalt impact . After taking measurements the taper of the pin is not even close to the Z32/S13 BJ taper. I just assumed I got the wrong set of pins, but maybe their all like this?!? FWIW, I'll eventually do the Def recommended mod of reaming it out and using a bolt instead.
                -Monty

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                • #9
                  Well, you guys are lucky that I have both the front pins and rear pins in front of me right now, and guess what, visually, they're exactly the same taper.

                  And we know that that is not the case for OEM parts, so yes, someone in the design department f'd up.
                  http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by McCoy View Post
                    Hmm, does yours look like this? I have the battle version RLCA's and this was as far as I got mine before stripping the castle nut with my nice 18V dewalt impact .

                    ...
                    That's exactly what mine looks like. Have you run with it like that? I'm assuming the thread lock will suffice until I can modify the setup. I'm just a little wary of drilling through the conical inserts without screwing something up, with 2 days until the next event.

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                    • #11
                      Whoa, McMaster-Carr don't carry M18 bolts!
                      http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by AceInHole View Post
                        That's exactly what mine looks like. Have you run with it like that? I'm assuming the thread lock will suffice until I can modify the setup. I'm just a little wary of drilling through the conical inserts without screwing something up, with 2 days until the next event.
                        Nope, I stripped all the thread off mine right after I took that photo . And since I couldn't find anyone with a replacement pin, I just decided to go with the bolt setup at a future date, probably the same time I correct the front RC.

                        Edit, just found the #'s I took back in April of last year... love the archived mail at work! The small side of the BJ is off by almost 1mm, surprised this hasn't come up more often on the forums.
                        S13 ball joint:
                        min 15.2mm
                        max 17.8mm

                        Battle Version king pin:
                        min 16mm
                        max 17.8mm
                        -Monty

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                        • #13
                          Godspeed front king pin:

                          min: 15.95mm aka 16mm
                          max: 17.8mm

                          Godspeed rear king pin:

                          min: 16mm
                          max: 17.8mm
                          http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What car are these damn arms built for I wonder .

                            What's funny is that I don't even have the godspeed arms, I have the Battle Version (aka TC Sportline arms).
                            Last edited by McCoy; 07-07-2010, 10:48 AM.
                            -Monty

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                            • #15
                              I think they just made like 1 dimension of pins and shipped them with every set of arms for that car.

                              So like, maybe they only made 1 size pin for the S-chassis, and will ship them with all the S-chassis arms, front or rear.
                              http://sosideways.wordpress.com/

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