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  • New engine for 2010

    Primer: Blew another engine due to what looks like a rod failure at the first event this season (repeat of last year it seems). You can see the crank side of the rod still attached to the crank through the new block ventilation system here:



    Built up a new engine for this season, with no stones unturned on the bottom end. Clevite bearings, Eagle rods, CP pistons, and ARP hardware. Had the internals ordered, machined, balanced, and built through 240sxMotoring. Started putting the rest of it all together this past weekend and its starting to look good:









    Hoping with all the newness I can get it on a dyno in a week and see if it'll crank out closer to 400rwhp.

  • #2
    Very nice...what compression ratio? 8.5:1?

    How much power was the old motor making before it went?

    - Brian
    '96 240SX | KA-T - 320rwhp @ 12psi | ~2700lbs
    Koni 8611 & GC's - 600/450 | RPF1's - 17x9.5

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    • #3
      That's sexy....I love KA's...but you already knew that seeing as you are one of my super awesome Oil Block buying customers

      I am SKULLWORKS

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      • #4
        Are you planning to coat the exhaust manifold?

        As for the oil block...Mike, I recommend those to all KA guys who are interested in remote-mounting the filter and/or adding a cooler. It looks like a nice product.

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        • #5
          I've got one as well. Great product

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 2Fass240us View Post
            Are you planning to coat the exhaust manifold?
            Not planning on coating the exhaust manifold. I'm actually just happy that it doesn't have any signs of cracking yet (Ebay manifold). After going through a couple (including the original I had made from an SR version) I noticed there were some small differences between them, from pipe size/ angles to tabs. Guess I picked a decent one this time.

            As for the oil block...Mike, I recommend those to all KA guys who are interested in remote-mounting the filter and/or adding a cooler. It looks like a nice product.
            The oil block is a very quality piece. My only complaint is that it runs -8AN instead of -10AN. I've got -8AN female to -10AN male adapters on it now, but does anyone know if -8AN male O-ring to -10AN male adapters fit?


            Also, I went with 9:1 comp pistons, but it's got a thicker headgasket on there. I'd guess-timate that it's closer to 8.7:1 by now.

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            • #7
              they will fit if you cut the hex down to match the sizes I provided,

              the oil passages leading to the unit is what I allowed to determine the fitting size...can't outflow the block after all...and didn't want to build in extra volume since you have to pump it all up before the motor sees pressure.

              Thanks for all the compliments....really appreciated
              I am SKULLWORKS

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              • #8
                Originally posted by AceInHole View Post
                The oil block is a very quality piece. My only complaint is that it runs -8AN instead of -10AN. I've got -8AN female to -10AN male adapters on it now, but does anyone know if -8AN male O-ring to -10AN male adapters fit?

                All of my lines and fittings are -10 so I didn't want to change my lines to -8's. I measured the center-to-center on the oil adapter block and found it is about 0.020" too narrow for -10's to fit side-by-side. Anyways I didn't want to cut 0.010" off the edges of each hex so I figured out that staggering them would work. I used one of the fittings that came with the block, one -10AN to -8 straight ORB adapter (Summit# EAR-AT985009ERL) and one -8AN to -10AN adapter (Summit# SUM220223-B).

                NASA Time Trials TT3


                BTW I work for Garrett

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                • #9
                  I like that a lot. The one I got off summit a while back wouldn't fit at all.

                  I'm new so sorry if this is common knowledge; Tower, are you still making those?
                  '95 240sx

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                  • #10
                    If you are, I'll take one as well.
                    Originally posted by SoSideways
                    I don't care what color they are as long as they are LONG AND HARD.
                    '04 G35 Sedan 6MT- The DD
                    '96 240SX- The Track Toy

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                    • #11
                      Is that a 2871 or a gt30? Im seriously considering stepping down from a gt32. Im making right at 320 rwhp with it....200ftlbs at 1500rpm and 320 at up till around 6k. Great powerband but coming out of a corner in second gear really starts to lag. Ive driven t25s and t28s and they both feel way better in tighter turns and coming out of a corner a little low in the gear. Anyway, hope this one stays together for keep us updated

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                      • #12
                        I already tried that block venting trick. It doesn't work as well as you'd think it does.
                        I can't wait until i can actually go about and build a good dependable bottom end like yours. Maybe in a couple more seasons.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by SM240 View Post
                          Is that a 2871 or a gt30?
                          I'm running a GT2871r, currently. One theory on my blown motors is that the motor makes torque "too early", putting more strain on the rods. I'd like to try a GT3071 with something like a 4.3 or 4.5 rear end, but that won't come for a while. There's more to gain with finishing off the suspension and lightening up the car, first.

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                          • #14
                            so pull some early timing???

                            If the motor's not knocking then it shouldn't cause any issues...but the 2871r's like to make low rpm torque, my tuner unplugged the wastegate on mine while we were trouble shooting the boost controller, at 4k rpm's it was making 15psi and 230lb/ft before he could get out of it
                            I am SKULLWORKS

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                            • #15
                              I would think that a built block will handle that possible issue. I tortured my built block recently, realizing some how I must have hit a key while tuning and fubarring the timing map in high boost. Dyno was in 16:1afrs with timing at 20plus degrees....in high boost. We couldnt figure out why torque fell way off after 5k rpm since I told the tuner timing map was solid lol. Picked up tons of power after fixing that. I could not believe I didn't blow this motor, it is definitely a major upgrade in strengthening(A word???) the motor.

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