FLCA building

[logr]

I am considering modifying my stock LCA to an adj rod end and was wondering what you guys think. I modified my spindles so I don't need to lower the ball joint but Coleman sure has some interesting ball joints to do just that if you can use a different taper.

Coleman has lca spacers that are 1.062 long for a 3/4 rod end and 1/2 in hole. With the width of the rod end, it should be very close to the crossmember width, grind as needed to fit. Use a 3/4 bolt on the other end and using a hex inbetween should do it. Should the hex be steel or aluminum and is what they have available strong enough? Coleman carries trailing arm stock in both. The steel is 15/16"x .125 and the alum is 1" hex and no thickness told. Opinions?


cm-9055 spacer 6.85
932-lm 3/4 rod end 18.35

[Matt93SE]

I'd vote for steel just for grins. seeing aluminum on a suspension part never gives me a warm fuzzy, even though it should be strong enough given the proper alloy.

I'll have to grab some pics of Joel's S13 one of these days. he's using some FLCAs like these:

T/C rod location has been moved to the rear so it mounts onto the frame rail instead of the brackets on the rad support. not sure exactly why, but that's how it is.

[Def]

You probably want steel, and you want a spherical bearing on the outboard side. Otherwise this will put the rod end shank in bending, which is bad.

It honestly sounds like some Godspeed arms would work fine for you. Just get some decent rod ends on the inner part and work the outer bearings around as much as possible to loosen them up.

You can't do a straight arm with stock spindles either, the bearing on the outboard side definitely needs to be angled.

[logr]

I was planning on using the original arms for the outer part. I was thinking of fitting/welding a bolt into the orig arm and then use a short rod for the adjustment with the rod end where the bushing goes. What do you mean the rod end shank in bend?

[Matt93SE]

If you're going to do it like you're discussing, it's not a problem. What is a problem is using a heim joint on the end of the control arm in place of a regular ball joint, because the forces are trying to bend the threads of the joint, not simply pushing or pulling on the piece.

See my attached simply free body diagram for an illustration. 5 min sketch and I've had a few margaritas tonight, so pardon the simplicity.

[BeerBringer]

http://www.formulastudent.de/academy/pats-corner/advice-details/article/pats-column-rod-ends-in-bending/

Still there is a TON of racecars that run it that way without problems.

[Def]

True it's common, but I would regularly replace rod ends if I ran them that way.

The bending comes from braking and to a lesser extent fore/aft traction when turning FYI.

The way you're talking about doing it is perfect logr. Just get the misalingment bushings down and then weld in a threaded tube and sole gussets and you're good to go.

Midwest control might have most of the stuff you need, but I'd run a QA-1 rod end
if you're going with Imperial sizes.

[Razi]

Hey everyone, joined just to clear up a question I've had while lurking here.

If I buy rod ends from QA1.
These to be exact:

http://qa1.thomasnet.com/item/metric-rod-ends-2/mhm-t-rod-ends-2/mhmr16t-2?&seo=110&plpver=1001&bc=1001|1003|1034|3001449|3001455|3001470

The Godspeed rod end spacers will fit into these without modification right?
I'm lowering my car further this month and I am about to purchase a pair of Godspeed FLCA and swap out the rod ends.

[SoSideways]

What spacers are you talking about?

Those QA1 rod ends will just replace the rod ends that come on the GS arms. You literally just unscrew the GS craptastic rod ends, and thread the QA1 rod ends on there.

Don't forget to swap the rod end cover while you're at it.

BTW, you might want to go ahead and replace the outboard bearings while you're modding the arms, since they're almost always way too tight and thus will not allow for proper articulation of the bearing once the arms are mounted, and will lead to binding.

[Razi]

The ones circled in red below is what I'm talking about.
I'm not familiar with it's name, I was under the impression that these are seperate from the actual rod end itself.

[Def]

They are separate, and yes, they should be a direct replacement. You could always measure yours just to make 100% sure.

Rod ends are pretty much standardized industry wide, so just make sure you're looking at the right series and you should be good to go.

[a_ahmed]

Def start making that spindle/lca/whatever package you mentioned on zilvia (just read that) hahaha

[Def]

Def start making that spindle/lca/whatever package you mentioned on zilvia (just read that) hahaha

As much as I wish it was that easy, there's actually a lot of work that go into anything that's not a simple "stock replacement."

In all due time... but I take it you're buying when they're available?

[a_ahmed]

Duh :P Remember i was one of the first to get ur sphericals

As is you know I was all warmed up for the driftworks spindles... although I don't believe their price is justified without being sphericals... why the hell did they use polyurethane bushings is beyond me on a race part... at least should offer it as an option. And for the rear in my case z32 shock/adjustment issue sucks.. but that's besides the point You know what I mean.

[Razi]

Thanks for answering my questions!