More shock travel

[logr]

Never looked at an S14 but on the rear on my S13 once the car was lowered 1.5-2.0 inches, there was almost no bump left in the shock. I have GC coil overs. The spring hat mounts more an inch below the mounting plate (that bolts to the body). I cut out that space until the GC aluminum part actually rests on the flat plate that bolts to the body. Weld it back together and you get a bunch more bump before bottoming out. It is bolted back in the car but I can take some pics soon if it would help and if anybody is interested.

You keep all the rubbers for misalignment, though you can shorten the bottom one for more travel. What this does is move the whole top of the spring and shock up about 1.5 inches for more travel before bottoming out.

[Def]

You do have a spherical bearing still providing articulation to the shock shaft back there right? I'm guessing you also have Koni yellows back there? They seem pretty long.

[Scores240]

I think he is talking about the yellows. I have the same problem, using tein upper mounts and a spring perch from some old coilovers i had. Took in the spacers to shorten them some to get more shock travel.

But koni's work at any length as long as its not 1" from bottoming out right?

[stewiefied]

yeah, that big spacer on top with angles on it can't be completely against your top mounts. The shock needs to be able to move without bending the shaft of the shock.

[Def]

^ That's what I was getting at. Mounting the shock shaft hard to the body of the car with no bearing to provide misalignment can definitely bend it, or at best just cause premature wear from the bending moment on the seals and piston which weren't designed for that type of loading.

One thing you guys could try doing is inverting the shock mount and running it on top of the shock tower. This will cut your droop down and give you a little more bump travel.

[stewiefied]

I know, i was just elaborating...
I don't see why people(companies) don't make low profile top mounts.

[Def]

It's common with other cars that run super low(ricer Hondas). Hell, even our friends at Ground Control sell extended top hats for the buzzy little things. Have been for at least a few years:



I'd rather just get a shock that works in the first place.

[veilside180sx]

The Yellow should be 12" iirc, which is .5" shorter than stock. S13 anyway.

Which GC top hats do you have on there too?

[stewiefied]

Hell, even our friends at Ground Control sell extended top hats for the buzzy little things.

nice

[logr]

I didn't explain it very well I guess. The shock still has all the misalignment it ever did. It is still mounted in rubber. The rubber is just moved up to mostly above the shock mount. Below the plate with the 2 bolts in it is an inch or so gap to where the spring hat goes. I eliminated that gap. Pics would help.

[logr]

It does the same thing as that Honda thing that Def posted.

[logr]

Took out the shocks so here is a pic. It gives 1 inch more bump to the rear shocks. It is plenty to keep my car from bottoming out. Modified one is on the left and they are upside down from the way they sit in the car.



This for coilovers. The top hat goes where the smaller diameter hub is. It is 1 inch closer to the bolt mounts on the left. All of the original rubbers are still used.

[Epstein]

I was considering doing this to my KW's, as I'm below the recommended adjustment range. While you're modding the mounts, you might also weld a 2.5" ID ring to it for use as a spring seat. I did this on my brother's Koni setup. I was a little put off by the fact that the spring could generate a side load as the 2 seats wouldn't be perfectly parallel. But, this is how the KW's work, with a piece that attaches directly to the stock mount for use as a spring seat.

[logr]

That is a good idea. There is really no reason to use the aluminum top hat. That would give another .5" or so. Wonder if it would work if you just eliminate the top hat.

[Def]

I was considering doing this to my KW's, as I'm below the recommended adjustment range. While you're modding the mounts, you might also weld a 2.5" ID ring to it for use as a spring seat. I did this on my brother's Koni setup. I was a little put off by the fact that the spring could generate a side load as the 2 seats wouldn't be perfectly parallel. But, this is how the KW's work, with a piece that attaches directly to the stock mount for use as a spring seat.

Coaxial spring hats are one of the best things you do can to make a shock work better and just plain last longer due to lower friction and bending forces.